Tirran
Well-Known Member
I’ve also started a thread on the engines forum but thought I could ask here to
As expected my Harmonic Balancer is proving a complete b’stard to remove, does anyone know where I can get a 4 bolt puller? Everything I have seen so far is only 3 bolt.
I don’t want to damage it as a replacement is around £180!!
cheers
Bill
As expected my Harmonic Balancer is proving a complete b’stard to remove, does anyone know where I can get a 4 bolt puller? Everything I have seen so far is only 3 bolt.
I don’t want to damage it as a replacement is around £180!!
cheers
Bill
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Used timing kit items, easy removal.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Engine timing belt replaced and lots of new parts have arrived, I can continue with my social isolation.
flywheel etc fitted so engine now put to one side, I’ll do the valve clearances later.
Moving on to the bodywork now, YRW shelves cleared, air rivet gun purchased, YouTube videos viewed and ready to get started when SHMBO has decided the garden needs some work!!!!!
flywheel etc fitted so engine now put to one side, I’ll do the valve clearances later.
Moving on to the bodywork now, YRW shelves cleared, air rivet gun purchased, YouTube videos viewed and ready to get started when SHMBO has decided the garden needs some work!!!!!
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raywin
Well-Known Member
Can you tell me what you used to paint the axles? Planning to do mine soon.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Buzzweld Chassis in One, great products. https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/
raywin
Well-Known Member
Cheers I have wondered about using their products.
I did my radius arms a couple of yeas ago using some wonder paint and it was completely gone in just over a year, maybe if the weather warms up I am going to do the axles and radius arms.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
I really recommend Buzzweld, gives a great finish and easy to apply. I’m looking at their products for the priming of new aluminium panels as I move on to the tub refurbishment.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Well, quiet weekend, refitted the steering column and removed and r3fitted the clutch and brake pedals to fit gaskets I forgot in my rush to build something. I also managed to break off the brake switch so, replaced that as well.
I then turned my attention to the seat box given the large parcels delivered this week from YRM, my wife enquired again on how much of this car is original. Anyway, both seat box ends and a new large battery box has been fitted. This required the purchase of an air powered riveter, bloody marvellous tool that makes the job so much easier.
workshop tidied up too, not sure what’s next but will need to find supplier of front wing parts, namely the nsf inner front part of the wing next to the intercooler, any suggestions?
I then turned my attention to the seat box given the large parcels delivered this week from YRM, my wife enquired again on how much of this car is original. Anyway, both seat box ends and a new large battery box has been fitted. This required the purchase of an air powered riveter, bloody marvellous tool that makes the job so much easier.
workshop tidied up too, not sure what’s next but will need to find supplier of front wing parts, namely the nsf inner front part of the wing next to the intercooler, any suggestions?
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Resurgam
Well-Known Member
Good use of self isolation - that looks like you're making great progress there! Unfortunately I've been using a mate's garage so any hope of getting a rolling chassis by April has gone out of the window. And as I've got a job where I can work from home I've actually got less spare time as I'm having to juggle work with looking after the kids, who think their holidays have come early. I did manage to retrieve a couple of Landy based jobs to do at home, so as some Exmoor Trim covers have just arrived I'm going to restore the seats, and also try and get the brake calipers resprayed and fitted with stainless steel pistons.
I've also been wondering about how much of mine is going to be original as it's got a new chassis, probably a new bulkhead, new door skins, parts of the rear tub skin, radiator, plastic trim... and my seat box although not as bad as yours is going to need a bit of fettling. It's going to be down to the engine and axles at this rate!
I've also been wondering about how much of mine is going to be original as it's got a new chassis, probably a new bulkhead, new door skins, parts of the rear tub skin, radiator, plastic trim... and my seat box although not as bad as yours is going to need a bit of fettling. It's going to be down to the engine and axles at this rate!
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Been isolated here for 3 weeks also working from home, can’t seem to allow myself to skive off to work on the Defender.
I was about to order the chassis just before all of this hit, in a way I’m glad as the delivery would be difficult yet the money no longer in my hands, not good for a Scotsman. Meanwhile I’ll do what I can between the jobs around the house, work and general dogsbody activity. There is a lot of paint prep to do that will take what appears to be millennia to complete, wiring to check out etc. I won’t be idle.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Turned my attention to the rear tub this week. Placed what seems to be a weekly YRM order for a few more bits for the tub and replacement rear quarter panels from another supplier as YRM don’t supply them.
The tub floor was not a straightforward removal, sounds easy reading about it but the reality is swearing, broken cutting discs and more swearing, broken drill bits and then happiness as it comes free. Cleaned up with a 80 grit flap disc and etch primed the bare bits of aluminium. I left the original supports in place as I moved on to removing the rear quarter panels, again not a simple job but I took the time it needed and off they came. The N/S one was already a replacement and had the additional sealant and adhesive so took longer to remove, both are off along with the rear tub x member. Another late order to YRM for wing to x member brackets stopped progress there so I moved back to the floor.
I’ve fitted the supports and top hats with only one rivet on each side for the supports, I intend to leave these rivets in place as I don’t think they will protrude given the aluminium of the rivet and floor, then lay the floor and drill through for the missing rivet which will joint the floor, flange and support piece. Drill through the remaining holes to secure the floor, remove the floor panel and add sealant, refit and rivet. I’ll use seam sealer once all of the work is done on panels probably just before paint.
The front tub bulkhead has had the repair panels fitted that now provide new seatbelt anchor points, 48 bolts hold it in place, another YRM part that really does as it says.
One thing I did see was the amount of sand in the tub side supports, they’re open at the top with a 1/4” drain hole at the bottom which blocks, turning the tub to work on it gave access to drill the drain hole and tap out the pile of sand.
Still a long way to go.
The tub floor was not a straightforward removal, sounds easy reading about it but the reality is swearing, broken cutting discs and more swearing, broken drill bits and then happiness as it comes free. Cleaned up with a 80 grit flap disc and etch primed the bare bits of aluminium. I left the original supports in place as I moved on to removing the rear quarter panels, again not a simple job but I took the time it needed and off they came. The N/S one was already a replacement and had the additional sealant and adhesive so took longer to remove, both are off along with the rear tub x member. Another late order to YRM for wing to x member brackets stopped progress there so I moved back to the floor.
I’ve fitted the supports and top hats with only one rivet on each side for the supports, I intend to leave these rivets in place as I don’t think they will protrude given the aluminium of the rivet and floor, then lay the floor and drill through for the missing rivet which will joint the floor, flange and support piece. Drill through the remaining holes to secure the floor, remove the floor panel and add sealant, refit and rivet. I’ll use seam sealer once all of the work is done on panels probably just before paint.
The front tub bulkhead has had the repair panels fitted that now provide new seatbelt anchor points, 48 bolts hold it in place, another YRM part that really does as it says.
One thing I did see was the amount of sand in the tub side supports, they’re open at the top with a 1/4” drain hole at the bottom which blocks, turning the tub to work on it gave access to drill the drain hole and tap out the pile of sand.
Still a long way to go.
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Tirran
Well-Known Member
Finally, I can see the end of the tub rebuild. My first time with car bodywork so, whilst not the ideal /perfect outcome I am happy with my achievement so far...
Just got the tub floor load bars, drivers door latch panel to fit and seam seal the various joints along with a few more rivets into the top hats.
Just got the tub floor load bars, drivers door latch panel to fit and seam seal the various joints along with a few more rivets into the top hats.
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steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Nice work, my floor went where the supports touched the ally, it must have been a electrical galvanic corrosion
Have you placed some insulation between them and floor, I recall a video on yrm that mentioned that
I used some fancy araldite to bond the top hats to floor as well,as rivets worked well
Have you placed some insulation between them and floor, I recall a video on yrm that mentioned that
I used some fancy araldite to bond the top hats to floor as well,as rivets worked well
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Yes, same here. YRM suggested insulating tape, which I’ve done and trimmed to make neater once the fixings were permanent.
moved on to check the doors, the drivers one is beyond redemption, looking for feedback on the various suppliers.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
I did a small repair to rear door welding in bottom and bit up the sides with new skin which was not too much of a problem and I’m no welder but your standards are well higher than mine , I can see you do no half measures.
Tirran
Well-Known Member
Not a lot happening, too busy building up "Brownie Points" with SWMBO by gardening etc.
The seat box is ready for paint although nothing will be painted until I can complete a test fit, that is some way off as still to buy the chassis and suspension. Windscreen frame is prepped too almost to bare metal in my attempt to get the electric blue paint the last owner used. Talking of paint, I'm going back to the original colour which i think is Arles Blue, the darker version of Marine Blue used on the Series 3, please correct me if I'm wrong as there is no paint code on the plate. Bulkhead picture shows the intended colour.
One interesting find is that the car obviously has had an accident at some time in its life as the nearside rear panel is new, the passenger door is in really good condition too.
The seat box is ready for paint although nothing will be painted until I can complete a test fit, that is some way off as still to buy the chassis and suspension. Windscreen frame is prepped too almost to bare metal in my attempt to get the electric blue paint the last owner used. Talking of paint, I'm going back to the original colour which i think is Arles Blue, the darker version of Marine Blue used on the Series 3, please correct me if I'm wrong as there is no paint code on the plate. Bulkhead picture shows the intended colour.
One interesting find is that the car obviously has had an accident at some time in its life as the nearside rear panel is new, the passenger door is in really good condition too.
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Tirran
Well-Known Member
My build so far, been prepping panels but not much else. Still saving for the Marsland chassis.
photo taken as I had to tidy up as you never really appreciate the space required when you strip down a car.
