picked up the rest of the heater and dash parts today for the TDCi dash conversion, everything looks pretty straight forward accept the fan speed as its electric on the tdci heater, gona have a fair bit of head scratching over that!!!


finished stripping the rear axle, couldnt get the A frame ball joint nut undone for love nor money so whipped out the big disc cutter but the ####ing thing has like merged with the axle?? as you can see i took a punch to it where the thread should be but there is the tiniet hair like crack showing where the thread would be?


Stub axles look ok to everyone or shall i get new ones as there pretty in expensive?
 
R.E. the A frame mount on the rear axle. it is the same as a ball joint for the steering, its on a taper. you wont knock the stuck bit out in the direction you are trying to as the part you are hitting is the larger end of the taper. you have to knock it out the other way, so from where the nut is on it. so you'll have to find a way of getting the nut off. will the nut not even come off if you put a socket on it with a breaker bar. it does have a split pin too but that wont be the cause of the nut not unscrewing!
 
argh!!! you have a point with it being tappered! i cant get a socket on the nut plus its huge like 30mm? tho only 300 mm socket i have is a really deep impact one and its at an angle so i can get that socket on it, i drilled the split pin out, its becoming a real ball ache as i wanted to get the axles off to the shot blaster before i went back to work tomorrow night!
 
Just keep persevering with that nut, plenty of WD ! It took me three visits to remove mine, in the end it unscrewed really easily.
I'm waiting for warmer weather to start my project, chassis needs welding in quite a few places, bulkhead realigning and hard top going on, looking forward to seeing yours progress!
 
when i changed mine i had a socket that fitted just about well enough to undo it. to be honest mine really wasnt that tight, but the joint was very worn.

you'll definitely be able to get a spanner on the nut, even if its just an adjustable one
 
stripped the rest of the axles, managed to get that bloody a frame joint off in the end, one of the CV joints looks nasty! front and rear diffs look ok tho.

 
it will be like Christmas again when i get this lot delivered Friday for my birthday!:5bparty:

shot blasters taking his sweet arse time tho :(


Swivel Kit - no ball - front axle from LA930456 to WA159806

DA3178P
£13.45

Ordered: 2
£26.90

CV Joint Kit - Defender non ABS and ABS from VIN LA930456

CVKIT9
£26.50

Ordered: 1
£26.50

Rover Diff Gasket

7316
£0.53

Ordered: 2
£1.06

Footwell RHD - RH

LR570R
£16.95

Ordered: 1
£16.95

Steering damper - Bilstein B6

DA1014
£57.00

Ordered: 1
£57.00

Bilstein B6 - Performance Front Gas Shock Absorber

DA1005
£54.00

Ordered: 2
£108.00

Shock Absorber Turret - Galvanised

NRC6372GALV
£13.50

Ordered: 2
£27.00

Shock absorber turret securing ring (inc. nuts)

572087
£3.45

Ordered: 2
£6.90

Lower sping seat - Galvanized

NRC9700G
£5.50

Ordered: 4
£22.00

Bilstein B6 - Performance Rear Gas Shock Absorber

DA1006
£54.00

Ordered: 2
£108.00

Heavy Duty Rear Spring Retention Plate 5mm (pair) - 90

PM638
£3.00

Ordered: 2
£6.00

A Frame ball joint - Delphi Lockheed

ANR1799D
£14.50

Ordered: 1
£14.50

Floflex Polyurethane Bush kit (front and rear including s/abs bushes)

SDLR03PWA
£56.50

Ordered: 1
£56.50

Front Bolt Kit from LA930456 to WA159806

DEF2SUSFRB
£7.50

Ordered: 1
£7.50

Rear Bolt Kit to YA185790

DEFSUSRRB
£7.50

Ordered: 1
£7.50

Seatbox side repair panel - RH

PM1038R
£15.00

Ordered: 1
£15.00

Seatbox side repair panel - LH

PM1038L
£15.00

Ordered: 1
£15.00
 
well as its my birthday today i treated my self to some bits, still a pretty long list of parts i will still need to buy! budget is taking a trashing, especially after going to look at the chassis after the sand blaster was finished! some one made a right hash of putting a new a rear xmember on so needs new xmember with extensions, all 4 out riggers, plating either side of where the gearbox xmember sits and patching in a few other places around the back end of the chassis! i think im going to bite the bullet and get a marsland galv chassis from paddocks, ive weighed up the pro's and cons and for about £600 if i weld all the bits in my self then get it hot dipped after its £600 for a decent job galv chassis or £1200 for a perfect new chassis not to mention the man hours in welding in the new bits and lineing it all up! here's some pics of what ive been upto.

[URL=http://s883.photobucket.com/user/marshy714/media/20140207_131949.jpg.html]
20140208_135859.jpg
[/URL]
 
cleaned up the swivel housing today ready for paint :) any tips on removing the brake discs from the hubs? undone the bolts and there on there solid as ####! my mate said give it a tap but how hards a tap and what do i tap the disc or the hub? the rears worse than the front.
 
Bolt the hub onto a spare wheel rim. then beat the **** out of the disc.
 
never hit hub only the disc ,lift one side up with other on the floor supported by your foot and hit lifted side of disc a few times then turn it round 180 degrees and o the same it will come off after a few good whacks
 
got a little bit of painting done in the sun shine waiting for the chassis to be delivered in a week or so. cant wait to start bolting nice shiny bits to the shiny galv chassis!

 
got my new side panels delivered this week, new chassis delivered today :) need to finish painting a few bits and get this ting rolling!

 
I'm actually pooping myself at the thought of a chassis change!!! Please as much detail as possible. :)
 
well done a few more bits, taking alot longer than i had first planned but hey ho, perfection cannot be rushed! plus im learning on the job lol. enjoy the piccies.!!

 
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