sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Important to know is that hey are not interchangeable
discool
Well-Known Member
Not a lot, beige item was an upgrade MFU for the 97 D1 with VIN VA and onwards to WA with an interface to the security ECU, and also includes a timed interface for the provision of a heated windscreen and no doubt any other additional electrical gizmos that wasn’t there before, such as drivers electric seat and window timed operation maybe.
So now the black AMR1280 is obsolete, the beige AMR5360 is still available as Rimmer’s have them at £385 + delivery. Wayback in 2012 my discos MFU packed up then it cost £145 inc delivery from Rimmer’s.
As both posts above - there isn't much difference - mainly an update to the functionality - for instance, the Fog light circuit changed from a switched on/off, ( so, it would come back on next time the headlights were switched on ), to a momentary switch, with the latching of the relay being done by the MFU ..
But, as already mentioned, they are not interchangeable.. you will loose certain functions, gaining others which you do not want ( ask me how I know )...
But, as already mentioned, they are not interchangeable.. you will loose certain functions, gaining others which you do not want ( ask me how I know )...
Mellbell
Member
Thanks discool for that info.got a bit of a confession about my disco.will write soon.
Mellbell
Member
Hi friend
My disco was a 300tdi edc automatic.its still an automatic for now! It used to be a edc pump till I changed to a Manuel pump.
Now reading on a site me being stupid this read was about someone who's taking a few things off the vehicle.he started to remove some of the wiring.am not daft.but a feel daft now in saying I tried it.BUT I thought I was removing wires I no longer need.then things wouldn't come on or work.
After banging my head off a wall sorry my wife did that.i removed the whole harness engine bay.dash .and main.
I bought a good second on eBay disco 1 V8.
Everything plugged in the same assuming things would be ok tried the lights they work .
Then noticed the fog light switch is on all the time . open any door the side lights com on.
It blows the two fuse in cab the ones with the workshop testbook sign is.
The drivers door is the only on that hasn't got a purple and white wire it's purple and blue.
That's why am thinking of the malfunction box
On the rear of the fuse board that's blowing they are heavy brown brown and purple colours.
Haven't got much hair left.
A bet there's a few ****ty comments coming now.
Thanks discool .
discool
Well-Known Member
Ok, on the later 96MY 300 series vehicles a wiring loom fits all… as you have found out 
Purple-Blue is shown in some wiring diagrams for the drivers door only which still goes to the MFU
Rear fog lights and interior lights use the MFU for their switching, so that would suggest the MFU could have an issue… assuming the replacement wiring loom is correct.
The MFU can be put in a diagnostic mode which tell u what circuits are good or not only… work or don't work, but there’s always a chance that the MFU wont access its access mode to do its test due to the issues.
Without me checking but I expect that the heavy brown wire is a 12v supply to the board from the engine bay fuse box.
I need look what the dash book symbol is for, read the owners handbook, maybe.
Also the fuse numbers that have blown are?
Purple-Blue is shown in some wiring diagrams for the drivers door only which still goes to the MFU
Rear fog lights and interior lights use the MFU for their switching, so that would suggest the MFU could have an issue… assuming the replacement wiring loom is correct.
The MFU can be put in a diagnostic mode which tell u what circuits are good or not only… work or don't work, but there’s always a chance that the MFU wont access its access mode to do its test due to the issues.
Without me checking but I expect that the heavy brown wire is a 12v supply to the board from the engine bay fuse box.
I need look what the dash book symbol is for, read the owners handbook, maybe.
Also the fuse numbers that have blown are?
Mellbell
Member
Yes that brown does go to the fuse box in engine bay.Ok, on the later 96MY 300 series vehicles a wiring loom fits all… as you have found out
Purple-Blue is shown in some wiring diagrams for the drivers door only which still goes to the MFU
Rear fog lights and interior lights use the MFU for their switching, so that would suggest the MFU could have an issue… assuming the replacement wiring loom is correct.
The MFU can be put in a diagnostic mode which tell u what circuits are good or not only… work or don't work, but there’s always a chance that the MFU wont access its access mode to do its test due to the issues.
Without me checking but I expect that the heavy brown wire is a 12v supply to the board from the engine bay fuse box.
I need look what the dash book symbol is for, read the owners handbook, maybe.
Also the fuse numbers that have blown are?
Will try the Hawkeye on this week.
Forgot to say no central locking either.not a problem.think I might take chance on getting a different mfu to try.
Not in a hurry to get going just need it sorted spent a fortune on it now.
Thanks for the help will let you know.
I've taken the EDC off my auto too - still auto, and staying auto. I left the EDC wiring in place - just sealed it all under heatshrink..
My own MFU issues appeared to start with the courtesy lights flickering, which is often failure of one of the relays in the alarm system, but in my case it was a "new" alternator with a way to high voltage set point which let the smoke out of the alarm and MFU - Alarm is fixable, MFU not. New ones were available, but they're all over 20 years old, and expensive, so not worth it IMO. Thus, I have made my own "MFU system" out of relays and timers.. It was a job from hell, but I did it, and it worked.. two years on, still works..
I'd suggest it worth getting the D1 ETM - which i have tried to upload to this post - it appears the forum server gerbil is still under the weather
, but I can email it to you if you want to PM me your email address...
Mellbell
Member
hi disco1BFG thanks for info.why arn't you going manuel.i am the new pedal box is in no bother.still along way to go.but a like a challenge as am getting on.anyways a right carry on .have spent alot of money on this disco so must keep going to sort it.thought a was doing alright taking loads of wiring away.but never realised that alot of wiring was spliced.my fault.at the minute pass window won't work.no central locking.side lights come on any door opened.fog light switch lite all time.and probably more.but yes any thing would be appreciated.many thanks .I've taken the EDC off my auto too - still auto, and staying auto. I left the EDC wiring in place - just sealed it all under heatshrink..
My own MFU issues appeared to start with the courtesy lights flickering, which is often failure of one of the relays in the alarm system, but in my case it was a "new" alternator with a way to high voltage set point which let the smoke out of the alarm and MFU - Alarm is fixable, MFU not. New ones were available, but they're all over 20 years old, and expensive, so not worth it IMO. Thus, I have made my own "MFU system" out of relays and timers.. It was a job from hell, but I did it, and it worked.. two years on, still works..
I'd suggest it worth getting the D1 ETM - which i have tried to upload to this post - it appears the forum server gerbil is still under the weather
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@Mellbell - I have emailed you the ETM ... but for your own sanity, remove your email address from the post above !!!
I'm not going manual because I'm disabled, and manuals are crap IMO.. I'm actually collecting all the parts to convert SWMBO's D1 manual to auto too.
If you want to go manual, you go for it, but I really fail to see the point of buying an EDC auto and converting it to manual - but your D1 is yours - so you do what you want to it..
I'm not going manual because I'm disabled, and manuals are crap IMO.. I'm actually collecting all the parts to convert SWMBO's D1 manual to auto too.
If you want to go manual, you go for it, but I really fail to see the point of buying an EDC auto and converting it to manual - but your D1 is yours
- so you do what you want to it..triumphman
Active Member
I have an auto pedal box assembly spare if you want one@Mellbell - I have emailed you the ETM ... but for your own sanity, remove your email address from the post above !!!
I'm not going manual because I'm disabled, and manuals are crap IMO.. I'm actually collecting all the parts to convert SWMBO's D1 manual to auto too.
If you want to go manual, you go for it, but I really fail to see the point of buying an EDC auto and converting it to manual - but your D1 is yours
