Wheel spacers are for returning the steering geometry to normal when fitting wider rimmed none standard wheels to maintain the designed scrub radius. Why do you think they come in differing thicknesses to cater for a variety of offsets. NOT as some think for widening the track to make the car look cool using standard wheels. By fitting spacers to standard wheels you are moving the tyres centre line outboard and changing the designed in scrub radius.
 
Wheel spacers are for returning the steering geometry to normal when fitting wider rimmed none standard wheels to maintain the designed scrub radius. Why do you think they come in differing thicknesses to cater for a variety of offsets. NOT as some think for widening the track to make the car look cool using standard wheels. By fitting spacers to standard wheels you are moving the tyres centre line outboard and changing the designed in scrub radius.
I agree that spacers should be used to correct scrub angles, should wider wheels make them more positive. However on a Freelander, tyre interference with the strut prevents such a wheel being fitted in the first place. From memory, the Freelander has a slight positive scrub angle with the 16" standard rim so spacers would make this more negative. This isn't to much of an issue as many modern vehicles use large negative scrub angles.
With the Freelander changing from the 16" Freedom to the 17" Trek rim, alters the scrub angle anyway. Both rims having the same ET46 offset but the 17" rim is 1" wider then the 16" rim. So scrub angles on the Freelander are not set in stone.
I personally wouldn't use a wheel and tyre combination that subsequently required spacers to fit them.
 
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I'm using 5mm wheel spacers due to stupidly buying the wrong year wheels and having new tyres fitted before realising. I'd rather not be using them but can't say I've noticed any problems.
I personally wouldn't fit bigger spacers just for looks but have no issues with those that do.
 
I'm using 5mm wheel spacers due to stupidly buying the wrong year wheels and having new tyres fitted before realising. I'd rather not be using them but can't say I've noticed any issues.
Wry, I have only been a member of this forum for a few days and I have learnt stuff already. Didn't know anything about wheel spacers. I think I will leave my wheels alone for now but what I do need is a spacer for the spare wheel so I can get the cover on. Anyone done this at all? Ta
 
Wry, I have only been a member of this forum for a few days and I have learnt stuff already. Didn't know anything about wheel spacers. I think I will leave my wheels alone for now but what I do need is a spacer for the spare wheel so I can get the cover on. Anyone done this at all? Ta
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you mean but would a few washers do the job?
 
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you mean but would a few washers do the job?
I think so but I think I saw a spacer specially for that too somewhere and wondered if I had made it up on my head or if any one had seen one anywhere and how much. Because it will probably be washers indeed to be honest
 
I think so but I think I saw a spacer specially for that too somewhere and wondered if I had made it up on my head or if any one had seen one anywhere and how much. Because it will probably be washers indeed to be honest
The 17" and 18" wheels needed a special spacer to mount them to the spare wheel carrier. It slips onto the carrier studs, like a normal shim spacer. If the spacer is missing, the tyre wall is hard against the high level brake light mount.
15" and 16" wheels don't suffer this little problem however.
 
All the comments regarding lift kits and spacers are all 100% correct. However, on a practical, real-world basis, would you actually notice? The FL1 steering box is quite well damped, so some additional kick back from the offset increase and the altered scrub radius is probably not sent through to the helm with much clarity. The increased ride height from a lift kit will alter the dynamic and kinematic toe angles, but if set to factory static, on jounce, the wheels will tend to toe-in, which is stabilising. The other issue is bump steer, which isn't ideal. But solving that will either mean dropping the rack, or engineering a new steering link to raise the steering joint position. Not really a very easy solution with plenty of safety issues. But again, I haven't heard many people complaining of bump steer on their raised Hippos? This may reflect the type of use that raised FLs get - i.e. not too aggressively on the road, mainly off-road fun machines...

Go into these things with your eyes wide open, and be aware of the potential problems!
 
All the comments regarding lift kits and spacers are all 100% correct. However, on a practical, real-world basis, would you actually notice? The FL1 steering box is quite well damped, so some additional kick back from the offset increase and the altered scrub radius is probably not sent through to the helm with much clarity. The increased ride height from a lift kit will alter the dynamic and kinematic toe angles, but if set to factory static, on jounce, the wheels will tend to toe-in, which is stabilising. The other issue is bump steer, which isn't ideal. But solving that will either mean dropping the rack, or engineering a new steering link to raise the steering joint position. Not really a very easy solution with plenty of safety issues. But again, I haven't heard many people complaining of bump steer on their raised Hippos? This may reflect the type of use that raised FLs get - i.e. not too aggressively on the road, mainly off-road fun machines...

Go into these things with your eyes wide open, and be aware of the potential problems!
I've driven mine on all sorts of roads at all normal speeds and haven't noticed any sign of bump steer. Yes it is slightly more Disco like in that it rolls a bit more but I've driven cars that were worse as standard. The taller tyres will also contribute to that.
 
The 17" and 18" wheels needed a special spacer to mount them to the spare wheel carrier. It slips onto the carrier studs, like a normal shim spacer. If the spacer is missing, the tyre wall is hard against the high level brake light mount.
15" and 16" wheels don't suffer this little problem however.
Thanks Nodge, that is exactly the problem. I have 17" wheels and wondered how I was supposed to get the wheel cover on. Do you know anywhere offhand to look?
 
Thanks Nodge, that is exactly the problem. I have 17" wheels and wondered how I was supposed to get the wheel cover on. Do you know anywhere offhand to look?

No. I read about there existence some time ago. However I've never actually seen the spacer. There will be a part number. But it could take some finding.
 
Are you after the cover or the spacer Phil? The former I have seen part numbers for - there is a different cover for the larger wheel/tyre combination
 
Do later cars with wheels with a different offset need the spacers? i.e. is this particular to early Freelanders, late cars or all of them?
 
my wheels are 17inch and my cover fits no problem if you are having trouble then just put two washers on each stud.
 
my wheels are 17inch and my cover fits no problem if you are having trouble then just put two washers on each stud.
Thanks for all the replies; it is a flexible cover and will fit. I just need a few washers, or I may buy a cheap wheel spacer ( seen them for £6 on EBay, bet they are grrrrrrreat ha) to bring the wheel out as suggested. I appreciate all the response, great forum.
 

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