I'm currently having my 90 rebuilt and shall be installing a Mud console to house stereo, CB radio, a few gauges, 12v socket, etc, electric window switches, etc.

Electrics were always a no-go area for me but I would really like to install the damned thing myself and would really appreciate some pointers.

First of all, things like the rear wash-wipe switch, oil pressure gauge, and 12v cigarette lighter are already installed. They'll just be moved from their current location therefore I think I should be safe in saying that I should be able to use the existing wiring bar some spade connectors. The electric windows shall be installed by a competent technician. I'll just change the crappy switches supplied with the electric windows kit with Carling switches. It's from then on that matters become complicated (for me). Do I use the existing wiring and then piggy back from one switch to the other and one gauge to the other? If so, how is it done? Are there any particular connectors that are worth using or are normal spade connectors good enough to link one cable to the other?

If, on the other hand, using the existing wiring to link more switches / gauges etc is not advisable, how do I go about it?

The best way is to solder wires and then heat wrap the bits. Not as hard as it sounds just heat the wire not the solder.

You can move stuff but might need to extend any wiring.

Better to give each unit a separate fused feed you can earth to the body work etc

Take your time and make sure everything is heat wrapped.

You can get the Carling switches with matching terminal blocks if you want a really tidy wiring job. If you want to use individual push on terminals / Fastons, it's worth going for the tin plated open barrel / F style crimp types with separate sleeves/heat shrink and a cheap crimp tool, than suffering those crappy red/yellow/blue preinsulated ones. If you are not bothered about easy removal of the switches / console then as payydg says, solder and heatshrink is good.
Don't forget the Carling switches have two terminals for switch illumination, these need to be piggy backed to an existing panel light circuit.

Thanks mates. JimS can you please tell me more about the matching terminal blocks? This is all greek to me.

reiny said:

Thanks mates. JimS can you please tell me more about the matching terminal blocks? This is all greek to me.

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These kind of things
http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/...ies/mounts-accessories/carling-multiplug.html
http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/switch-terminals.html

Just means if ever you want to remove the console you don't have hundreds of wires to disconnect, and keeps the vehicle loom tidy

Thank you. So, just to make things clear because, as I said, I'm a complete numpty when it comes to electrics. Will i need one multiplug for each switch? Or one multiplug connected to all switches (4 in my case)?

They fit on the back of the switches, so one for each switch, and enough terminals.
Make sure you get the right switch configuration for whatever it will be used for ie momentary-off-momentary SPDT for the electric windows, and use fuses to protect each new circuit, and heatshrink on any wire taps / joints
Just be methodical and write everything down / label the wires, when you are wiring a bank of switches it can quickly become a bit of a birds nest if you are not careful.

Thank you so much. I'll give it a shot. One other question. Should I take a live feed from an existing circuit or directly from the vehicle's main fuse box?

reiny said:

Thank you so much. I'll give it a shot. One other question. Should I take a live feed from an existing circuit or directly from the vehicle's main fuse box?

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Depends on what you are switching, you can tap into an existing 12v for most things (use an inline fuse as a minimum), higher current draw accessories will need a relay. There are both permanent 12v and ignition switched 12v behind the dash where the console will fit