Feathers McGraw
Well-Known Member
I get between high 20s to low 30s normally. On a good run around 35. This is in a fairly rural setting with not much stop start.
Feathers McGraw
Well-Known Member
Brakes sticking?
Discodevon
Well-Known Member
Maybe give your maf sensor a good looking at with an insight to change it, I think you can also reset your auto box ecu if you can a Nanocom
The problem is if you dont measure it from one tank full to another tank full and work out the figures each time, you end up with I thought and approx, ie you are just guessing.
You can spend lots of time/money and effort guessing when if fact there may be nothing wrong.
I would say 28 is excellent on a long run and 21 is nearer the mark for local work.
You can spend lots of time/money and effort guessing when if fact there may be nothing wrong.
I would say 28 is excellent on a long run and 21 is nearer the mark for local work.
Hi Thanks guys, sorry it's been a while. lynall, I've measured from full tank using mileage and litres used, still comes out 19/20. Can't afford it, I'm afraid.
Discodevon, will ask my son if he knows what you mean, thanks. Unless of course, you're close to me and want to explain it!
I'll see if I can do what you recommend. Thanks to all.
Discodevon, will ask my son if he knows what you mean, thanks. Unless of course, you're close to me and want to explain it!
I'll see if I can do what you recommend. Thanks to all.
Put it in for a thorough going over with a specialist and ask them to go over the fuel system 100% including all engine sensors.
Do the maths, cost of professional service and going over Vs losing 7MPG of fuel out the tail pipe, or worst case you sell it off to someone who will and end up with another hunk of junk.
Elmur Thud
Member
I checked mine last year on a run down to Torquay (323 Miles) full to empty and full to empty again it did 27MPG.
Then again to Scotland with the caravan, (350 miles) full to empty and full to empty. 21MPG. This is all just driving at legal speeds.
Then again to Scotland with the caravan, (350 miles) full to empty and full to empty. 21MPG. This is all just driving at legal speeds.
AdamD1
Well-Known Member
I’ve seen 28 on a run, mix in a couple of days laning around the dales with the run up there it averaged 21.2. Much worse than my manual 300tdi was but the td5 has a tuning box on it and is an auto so I’m not surprised. It is nice to comfortably keep up with modern traffic.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
35mpg from an auto??? That is significantly more than LR ever claimed. And more than any manual Td5 D2 I’ve come across.
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
Have you checked for a stuck caliper? Mine just had this spotted by a local garage. They are prone to it apparently, as are a lot of 16 yr old vehicles. Not expensive or hard to sort but i am led to believe you will want to do the carrier and the caliper. Check for pad scoring and a burnt orangey disc. Also may be felt roling to a stop. On my old mondeo the disc was glowing orange after a motorway trip with a stuck caliper! Would explain an mpg drop.
Rosieq, I have an identical vehicle to you and had a similar problem for a long time. There is a strong possibility that either or both your MAF and your MAP sensors are playing up. You can remove the MAP sensor and clean the tiny little thingy in the tiny little hole with sensor cleaner. Basically spray it, shake it and let it dry, maybe repeat this cycle a few times, then put it back the way it was.
You can test the MAF sensor by just unplugging it. After a very short while of driving, the ECU realises the problem and replaces the missing MAF signal with a pretty accurate approximation and the car drives nearly as normal. If it is the MAF, then the fuel consumption should improve and the performance too. It took me a few years to realise that I had replaced a bad MAF with a new one that was just as bad. The one I ended up with cost £127 plus VAT but it transformed the vehicle to the point where I was getting 29 mpg on a run. I tried cleaning both MAFs and although I was supposed to be getting a signal, it wasn't right.
This isn't all that could be wrong, as others have posted, but doing these two tests is relatively easy and above all costs very little. If you can get hold of a diagnostic tool then that would help even more.
Best of luck
You can test the MAF sensor by just unplugging it. After a very short while of driving, the ECU realises the problem and replaces the missing MAF signal with a pretty accurate approximation and the car drives nearly as normal. If it is the MAF, then the fuel consumption should improve and the performance too. It took me a few years to realise that I had replaced a bad MAF with a new one that was just as bad. The one I ended up with cost £127 plus VAT but it transformed the vehicle to the point where I was getting 29 mpg on a run. I tried cleaning both MAFs and although I was supposed to be getting a signal, it wasn't right.
This isn't all that could be wrong, as others have posted, but doing these two tests is relatively easy and above all costs very little. If you can get hold of a diagnostic tool then that would help even more.
Best of luck
My D2 td5 auto averages about 21mpg... that is on a 24 mile commute of which 18 miles is motorway. this is a big drop from what is used to be...27-29mpg. I'm thinking I might need to change the MAF sensor as recently when starting it has been at very low power for the first 15-20sec. Another thing is to check your air filter! when i brought mine, the previous chap had sealed up the airbox and obviously never bothered to change the filter. Changing it made a huge difference in the power and MPG!
Ironman, of course you are right about the airfilter, too. You deffo need to do something, with all that M-way, unless you are doing ridiculous speeds, MPG should be better than that.
Rosieq, try to keep the engine turning over at about 2000 revs, that is the peak torque and therefore the most economic, although anything less than that is even more economical, but of course, to get lock up on an autobox you need to be doing 56 mph, in D.
Rosieq, try to keep the engine turning over at about 2000 revs, that is the peak torque and therefore the most economic, although anything less than that is even more economical, but of course, to get lock up on an autobox you need to be doing 56 mph, in D.
Poor mpg seems to be a perennial problem with TD5s. Remember the days when all you needed to do was change the plugs and points, do the tappets, check the timing, tune the carb and off you went? We are apparently too stupid to do it nowadays so computers have to do it for us. Only they don't do it properly! So crazy that an electrical bit can cause all these problems. They designed the electrical bit without taking into account ways of protecting it from the environment it was going to work in, or at least building in some sort of self-cleaning bit. Imagine if your feet stopped working because they got a bit wet or dirty!
And yes I do know that a TD5 is a diesel, you get what I am saying!
And yes I do know that a TD5 is a diesel, you get what I am saying!
My V8 Disco 2 used to lock up at 35mph on a light throttle
