GallyeL

Member
Hello hello!

Sorry if this is too long, I can make them shorter if need be, being new I didn't want to miss anything.

Recently acquired an Auto Diesel 2003 3L Land Rover Range Rover (which I understand to be L322). All we've been told is that it was a gearbox issue, wouldn't move at all so its scrap etc but my dad and I fancied a bit of a project to do together and so far been fun'-ish'.

Got the wheel hub off and could see the brake pads were f***d, hub off and the ABS ring was completely fused to the driveshaft causing it to lock, so we cleaned it up, got a new ring on and got movement in the wheel.

It now moves. It goes into reverse, drive and sets off itself, albeit slow as didn't want to cause any further damage. If it gets warm though and I stop, it cant set off itself and needs a nudge/push. Turn it off for 5-10 mins and back on it seems to move again fine on it's own. This makes me believe it isn't the 'gearbox' issue they made out as it does move?

2 steps I found myself, unsure if applicable?
a) Found a video on YT for doing an oil change that apparently (according to LR) never needs to be done :( . I am wondering if this has been attempted and not done properly or not enough oil in, does too little oil cause the above issue?
b) Failing this I found a guy on eBay offering a recon torque converter (with an apparent better part in it) where he wants the old one back in addition to £310 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304112783605?hash=item46ce88d0f5:g:VuEAAOxywXFSbnRl - anyone dealt with this guy before but looks good?!

Anyone any ideas if this is a common issue or should I start with the above 2 fixes as a first port of call? It'd probably set me back ~£400 so worth a punt I'd say?

GallyeL
 
Welcome,first of all see if you can get the filler plug out,then drop the oil and see what condition it's in check for bits of metal or clutch lining. If it's ok drop the gearbox sump and change the filter and refill with the correct oil and by the approved method. The search box top right hand side of the page will help.;):D
 
Welcome,first of all see if you can get the filler plug out,then drop the oil and see what condition it's in check for bits of metal or clutch lining. If it's ok drop the gearbox sump and change the filter and refill with the correct oil and by the approved method. The search box top right hand side of the page will help.;):D
Thank you for your reply, I will get the kit and get that done first of all then! I tried to search this but nothing about it going worse only when warm. I came across draining gearbox so found the YT video. Thanks, seems I may be going in the right direction ;)
 
Thank you for your reply, I will get the kit and get that done first of all then! I tried to search this but nothing about it going worse only when warm. I came across draining gearbox so found the YT video. Thanks, seems I may be going in the right direction ;)
Don't forget to keep your fingers crossed, @Bemble may be able to shed some light on your problem, he's the master with auto boxes but he won't touch the GM because their made of cheese.hopefully he'll respond to me tagging him.:)
 
Don't forget to keep your fingers crossed, @Bemble may be able to shed some light on your problem, he's the master with auto boxes but he won't touch the GM because their made of cheese.hopefully he'll respond to me tagging him.:)
Made of cheese :D sounds like im in for a bumpy ride

excuse my puns I know they are terrible :rolleyes:
 
As @tomcat59alan says with them being made of cheese they generally last 80k to 100k before they need a major refurb. Torque converter starts to break up and contaminates the gearbox.
 
Hi @kermit_rr other than what I have read I know very little about GB's and TC's but from that research there are 2 main issues. One is the TC breaking up and contaminating the GB through a shared oilway, second is from wear on soft valves in the GB. There's a number of threads on here about upgrading the box with a Sonnax valve body (which mine now has according to the guy that reconned my box) which should increase it's life expectancy. I would agree that given LR's design it would indeed be prudent to replace the TC pre 80k to at least rule out one of the causes. Oh and frequent oil and filter changes.

Maybe some more knowledgeable ladies or gents can confirm or deny my findings :)
 
could it be going into limp mode coz your batterys deaded?

Good news is early L322 that you have may be in RAVE which will show you details on every nut bolt and wire (except the bits that are wrong). Dont listen to the 'sealed for life' nonsense, if you dont change the oil & filter ever its life will be considerably shorter is all that means in reality
 
Drop the sump on the gearbox, if you find any metal powder/dust it's already contaminated and the gearbox has already left the building! ;)
@GallyeL My GB & TC were done in Denton if that's any good to you.

Not too far I guess, is it a matter of taking her in for a lookover or do I take bits off etc?

I could drop the oil/change and see what's occurring but I'm no expert. I will certainly look for the bits in the oil, but would that mean TC&GB replaced totally? It's looking more like 1500 for bits then?

from the above I am guessing it's not worth doing oil and TC if there are bits in the oil? On the video he just cleaned it all up from the magnet etc
 
I did an oil change but it didn't make any difference and as mine had done around 100k miles anyway I just gave them the car and the keys and let them crack on.
I could have messed about taking the GB & TC off myself and taking it to be done but IMO not worth the hassle.
 
Why not buy a second box with clean oil. I suppose it depends how much you paid for the car and how long you intend to keep it.
 

Similar threads