J

JStanbridge

New Member

• Jul 9, 2017

• #1

Hello,

Could someone advise me on what exactly I need to purchase in order to repair my rear tailglass. It has stopped working and does not drop to clear the seal. It does not work with the switch inside, and when I try to put the window down, there is a grinding sound coming from the tailgate.

I removed the trim today and found that many of the parts in inside the door were heavily corroded. There is also a snapped cable, and a spring-like mechanism that looks worse for wear.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty confident in fixing the window myself, but would like some guidanceu from someone who has dealt with this seemingly common problem before.

Thankyou

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Jul 9, 2017

• #2

The broken cable will be the problem. However if the whole assembly looks to be in poor condition, then replace the complete regulator. If the motor is working, there's no need to replace it. Just fit the old motor onto the new regulator.

 

J

JStanbridge

New Member

• Jul 9, 2017

• #3

Nodge68 said:

The broken cable will be the problem. However if the whole assembly looks to be in poor condition, then replace the complete regulator. If the motor is working, there's no need to replace it. Just fit the old motor onto the new regulator.

Click to expand...

Thanks Nodge68,
I've ordered a second-hand motor and regulator from Ebay which should hopefully do the trick! Will look forward to fitting them.

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2017

• #4

JStanbridge said:

Thanks Nodge68,
I've ordered a second-hand motor and regulator from Ebay which should hopefully do the trick! Will look forward to fitting them.

Click to expand...

I personally feel that second hand window drive components are a false economy. Especially as you have a working motor. A new regulator is available off EBay for under £35.

Let us know how it goes.

 

ming

SPACE TWOT

• Jul 10, 2017

• #5

And don't forget you will need to re set the timing after new fit, easy job ,look in search .

 

GrumpyGel

Well-Known Member

• Jul 10, 2017

• #6

ming said:

And don't forget you will need to re set the timing after new fit, easy job ,look in search .

Click to expand...

I know you run a Classic Rokit Ship for cheap tax - but these modern fandango Freelanders use EFI and you don't have to worry about timing any more - gone are the days of getting Porky to fetch the strobe light after fixing the back window.

OP will have to recalibrate the window though

 

ming

SPACE TWOT

• Jul 10, 2017

• #7

Hmm, you knews whot I ment . . . . .

 

J

JStanbridge

New Member

• Jul 16, 2017

• #8

Hi all,
After acquiring a second hand motor and regulator off Ebay, me and my cousin fitted them yesterday afternoon. It did take us over an hour but the window now winds up and down, and also moves up and down in order to clear the seal.

However, when I want to put the window up e.g halfway from a down position, the window goes back down again. It will stay up provided I put the window all the way to the top. Also, if the window is fully up, I can choose how high I want the window from an up position, just not from a down position if that makes sense.

Is this how it is meant to work?

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Jul 16, 2017

• #9

Glad you sorted it.

Yes it's designed to go fully down if it's stopped in the upward direction.

If you want the window half way down. Then stop it when it's going in the downward direction.

 

4

4Bee4Bee

Well-Known Member

• Jul 16, 2017

• #10

Apart from not using the tailgate, are there any preventative measures such as greasing the cables etc, that help extend the life of these mechanisms?

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Jul 16, 2017

• #11

4Bee4Bee said:

Apart from not using the tailgate, are there any preventative measures such as greasing the cables etc, that help extend the life of these mechanisms?

Click to expand...

Yes. You can oil the cables, to help prevent rust. The cables generally rust through on the lower guide pulleys. I lubed mine when I got it two years ago. I lubed them again this morning, just before installing some neoprene sound proofing sheet.
I'm hoping the cables now outlast the car.!

 

4

4Bee4Bee

Well-Known Member

• Jul 16, 2017

• #12

Thanks Nodge. Anything that prolongs not having the hassle of having to do a replacement! - I've got the rear card and shedder off at the moment, having just replaced the door handle that had rotted on the studs. So now is the perfect time for me to do this. I'm going to clean the door out also and put some waxoyl on some of the bits that look like they are starting to discolour a bit. So some extra lubrication on the cables will be done this week also.

How has the sound deadening sheet worked out? Has it made much difference? - It's on my luxury to-do list at the moment. I've got to sort the basics first though!

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Jul 16, 2017

• #13

4Bee4Bee said:

Thanks Nodge. Anything that prolongs not having the hassle of having to do a replacement!
How has the sound deadening sheet worked out? Has it made much difference? - It's on my luxury to-do list at the moment. I've got to sort the basics first though!

Click to expand...

It worked fantastically when I did the front doors last month. I got fed up with a buzzing sound from inside the rear door at 1500 Rpm. I've not driven it since fitting the neoprene, but it'll get a good test on my daily commute tomorrow. My water shedder was also completely toasted, so it's got a fresh 3mm neoprene replacement instead.