They complained about my wheel bearings at my MOT. Said there was too much play in em, but I argued the toss with em saying they was set up with less end float than they should have 0.0015" instead of 0.002"-0.004". This baffled em cos they just tighten em up till they can't feel any play at all cos there ****e mechanics an don't know fook all about taper roller bearings.

On the other hand they ant ever tested my Landy for emissions.

An as a top tip degrease round yer fuel filler cap before yer MOT, this'll stop em being suspishus of yer cap leaking.
 
for the smoke test they run the engine up to full speed and then back down again a few times - an engine with an old cambelt may not get used that hard ever in normal driving, lots of people stay well clear of it and so the high revs can cause an old belt to snap. I found this out, a week after buying it. Little use and no cambelt for 7 years. I buy it and drive 200 miles home, and then drive it around every day, snap... Hello, RAC?
 
well it failed heres the list (focus left headlight,) (steering linkage right king pin?) (front axle wheel bearings passenger side,) (shock absorbers back axle both sides mounting bushes) (battery not mounted correctly) thats it. Not the end of the world the second one is where ill need help I think
 
Im not sure what it means I think there is no king pin on a defender

There is, but its in the swivel housing and runs in a railco bush. My personal experience is that these don't wear too much, but the little fiddly roller bearing on the bottom does and looks and feels like the wheel bearing is worn, and makes braking hard a bit funny cos the wheel moves on its pivot. Is only a couple of hours work to replace all of it though, and it makes a noticable difference an'all.
 
If it is yer swivel bearings then you'll only get play top to bottom not side to side, Though it is hard to feel cos you've got to support the weight of the wheel an waggle it at the same time.
 

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