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plook

New Member
I just failed my D90 1994 MOT on exhaust back box and mid pipe rotted out and a couple of bushes, one in the long steering arm where it connects on the near side and one in the nearside trailing arm where it connects to the axle.

Where can i get these parts quick and cheap and how can i get the old bushes out? Can i get the front bush out without removing the steering arm?

thanks.
 
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:multiply:
 
Brilliant, At least you know where you can buy cheap t-shirts then. :rolleyes:

I haven’t done the bushes you’re talking about. But recently changed the front radius arm bushes for my MOT.

The obvious way to get them out is hacksaw and small metal chisel. Then push the new ones in (make sure they go in square) by hammering them (carefully) with an oversized socket. I’m sure mechanics have better ways up their sleeve though.

When I needed mine quickly, Brookwells were really good about getting them in the post that evening, unfortunately they turned out to be the wrong bushes. Not Brookwells fault, for some reason my Landy (same year as yours) needed the older narrower ones. Even thought the VIN is an MA number.

Luckely I was able to get the right ones the following day by driving to Gratech in Maldon, they had the right ones in stock and cheap to. Don’t know where you’re based though.

So I would say to be careful in case you run into the wrong bush size trouble like I did. It seems there were some changes sometime around the 1993 and 1994 model year.

When you say the long steering arm, do you mean the ball joint on the end of the track rod that needs replacing?
 
Try paddock spares, there stuff usually arrives next day and is reasonably priced. Yes it is easier if you remove the steering rod.
 
Thanks. I did put my order in at Paddocks and i'm hoping the stuff will arrive tomorrow. I've managed to get the rear trailing arm off and the panhard rod and have burnt out the rubber and inner ring of the bushes but for the life of me i can't get the big metal sleeve out. Any tips, or just take to a prop shaft maker round the corner? How would i get the new bushes in? I wish i ordered poly bushes as i now understand they are easy to press in, but i didn't.

Panhard rod is what i meant. After writing my first message i dug out the manual and although theye call in panard i was able to find panhard on the Paddocks site.

I hope the bushes will fit. if they don't i'll get the poly ones.
 
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Get a hacksaw and feed the blade through the bush and cut a line through it ( but not cutting the rod ) then chessel the rest out :) .
 
Hacksaw blade and chisel worked a treat. Just waiting for Paddocks delivery now. ordered yesterday and coming Friday i hope.

One other thing the MOT failed on was rear nearside brake only at 80%. New pads 6 months ago so not worn out. Could they fail the test through not being used enough in the week or so leading up to the test, like rust on the discs and grot on the pads?
 
If it is at 80 % then it is probably the caliper sticking slightly or the disc slightly warped.
Have a look at the disc, the rust etc usually comes off after a few miles driving. Is the rust only off part of the disc ? If yes then take the pads out and check the caliper pistons if there moving freely. (If unsure get a new one there about £40 quid from paddocks) it could be the disc if the pistons are moving freely remember to change the disc's as a pair with new pads.

I hope the MOT man is using a 4 wheel rolling road ?? if not he will fukkk up the transmission. My MOT man test's the brakes using a deccelerometer as he doesn't have a 4 wheel rolling road, i believe there also allowed to test them on a test drive
 
80% efficency isnt that bad , unless its imbalence @ 80% thats different . Like Andy said above , check your pistons are not siezed first.

Before you fit your new panard rod bush , give the sleeve that it fits into a damn good clean with sand paper / wire brush , and copper slip the bush and sleeve ( if u got any ) . It will make fitting it a lot easyer, if all you have is greese then use that - try not to fit new bushes dry . :)
 
Thanks for that. I'll get in there and have a look-see.

Thanks for the copper-slip info. I did the rear trailing arm nearside bush today, i had two of those in my spares. it came out ok with the hacksaw but putting the new one in with copper-slip was tough. Fortunately i had the correct size (good ol' Bob at Paddocks). To get it in i used a massive vice and a socket that i taped to the new bush sleeve and although hard to rotate it went in true. I have a funny feeling there was nothing wrong with the old bush though, i just think the nut was loose.

How would a panhard bush fail the test? i welded on a new bracket on the nearside that the panhard rod bolts to and when i did it the alignment was difficult to get the bolt through. I did it but i could see that i was out by a mm or so and the rod end might have been touching the bracket. is that what they might have classed as a fail - metal on metal? It's either that or the bush had actually failed in a way that i could not see with my eyes when i took the rod out.
 
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plook said:
Thanks for that. I'll get in there and have a look-see.

How would a panhard bush fail the test? i welded on a new bracket on the nearside that the panhard rod bolts to and when i did it the alignment was difficult to get the bolt through. I did it but i could see that i was out by a mm or so and the rod end might have been touching the bracket. is that what they might have classed as a fail - metal on metal? It's either that or the bush had actually failed in a way that i could not see with my eyes when i took the rod out.
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The panhard rod is there to stop the axle moving side to side in relation to the rest of the vehicle, so a worn bush could let it move and cause instability I suppose. I'm no MOT tester but I guess that's why its covered in the MOT.

My trailing arm bushes failed because they had let the trailing arm move over slightly and start touching the bracket on the axle. The guy said they are supposed to be in the middle and allow no contact with the bracket. To be fair, when I took the trailing arm off, one of the rubbers in the bush was so fecked, the inner metal sleeve fell straight out onto the floor.

When you put those types of bushes back in and are trying to refit the bolts, you will find the centres need pulling back into place. They are rubber afterall and do move a little. Typically you'd use a heelbar to aline the holes and hold it there whilst you push the bolt through from the opposite end. That'll make the bolt go through a lot easier.
 
Well i got everything fixed for the re-test on Monday except the brake. I opened it up, rear near side and the left piston is fine, the right one was ceased. I freed it up though and now it is moving. I am really struggling for time with the MOT though as i'm going away on Wednesday and i don't have the time to pull the caliper apart and put a new piston and seals in, well if i can get away with it just to get through the MOT that would be great, and then next week when i get back get in the and do it properly.

So, the right piston was ceased and not working and here are some observations which i really hope the more experienced brethren here will be able to advice me on:

1. Both pads removed. Pushed the ceased piston in and the good piston was out. Then i pushed the good piston in thinking it should push the bad piston out - it didn't.
2. Got my wife to sit at the helm and press the brake pedal with engine running, the good piston came out fine, then the bad piston did come out all the way once the slack in the brake pedal was eventually taken up after about 3 pumps.

So the bad piston is now working, but is it too risky to go back to the MOT station for the retest like that. Remember, it was ceased before and now it's moving, but does need to be replaced, but hopefully not before i go away on Wednesday.

What do you think, will it pass. Looking at the notes the MOT guy gave me the front brakes were pulling 280Kg, the rear brakes with that ceased piston 120Kg.

Please let me know. if i have to change the piston, what's involved, never done it before. How do i get the vacuum in the fluid after i've done it. the brake fluid pipe and bleed nipple will probably snap judging at the condition but i have put stuff on to try and penetrate the threads.
 
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Took the landy in for the re-test and it failed. They say that both rear brakes are only pulling 120KG now, so it looks like a master cylinder thing. They said i might be able to adjust the compensator, so got to try and find that. The front are pulling way more, so if i could distribute the power acros front and back i would have enough.

Can anyone tell me if the brake compensator is adjustable.
 
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Are you sure it doesn't just need bleeding? Or pads replaced?

If you've had a seized caliper for a while, surely one of the pads is a lot more worn than the other?

Did you actually take the caliper off then (i.e. disconnected the brake hose)?

Sorry, dont know if the compensator is adjustable and have not changed the pistons before, but the workshop manual says you shouldn't split the caliper.

Usually for unseizing a piston, you can clean it up with a bit of emery paper and brake cleaner. just clean the rust and crap off the piston so it moves. Be careful not to damage the seals though.
 
It's very odd but but pads are worn the same amount with loads of life in them.

I have not bled the brake fluid, maybe i should do that.
 
As was mentioned in an earlier post - for £40 I'd change the calliper (and pads) first.

Rear pads need to be changed on both axles, but you might get away with just the one calliper

Easy job, only complicated if the brake pipe and/or bleed nipple is seized.
 
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