thanks for lending me your time marmaduke

ha, can you tell its my first landy


so.....this 10 or 24 spline front axle.....my mate wants to know how you would go about telling which i have.........i know of course but he could probably do with a lesson ;)
 
ha
i will make sure i let him know,
thanks again
im sure i will be back in touch when i actually start doing some work,
as always in these situations i am back at work the next few days so i wont be able to get it started for a few days
 
rasclatMC said:
ha
i will make sure i let him know,
thanks again
im sure i will be back in touch when i actually start doing some work,
as always in these situations i am back at work the next few days so i wont be able to get it started for a few days
Click to expand...

Tell me about it, I'm been off today and tomorrow and then I'm back in for six on the trot:(
 
So today was my first day off since the MOT failure
Bushes on radius arms and panhard rod replaced and reinstalled. Rear wheel bearing removed and replaced.

I need to source a new bonnet now, and then another day of the fiddly little bits (windscreen washers etc) hopefully if I can sort all the little bits over the next few days I can take it to a garage for a spot of welding and the brakes adjusting (they are spongy)

Does anyone know if I can use a bit of rope tied to the bumper for an impromptu 'bonnet safety catch' to pass the MOT untill i can find a new bonnet?

Thanks for all your offers to help.
 
I can't see rope tied to the bumper getting past an MOT.

How did you get the new bushes into the radius arms? If you did it at home with a hammer you've done well. 200TD1 ayre's offer of a press was a good one.
 
I want to eventually replace the whole bonnet as it had flipped up in the past and it is bent and nackered. I just need to get it through its MOT for now so was wondering if a rope would do for the test.
I am trying to source a cheap second hand one around Derbyshire.
I have bought a safety latch but can't get it to fit. It seems far too big.

For the bushes they were a nightmare to get out. I got normal bushes instead of poly bushes and took the radius arms to a garage and they were able to push them in for me. Only took 10 mins when you have the right kit. Ha.
 
Standard bushes will be absolutely fine.
Where did you buy the latch? How did you get the wrong one? What happened to the original?

Any plans for the welding? That would be my priority.
 
The catch was just a cheap £5 job off eBay. I think it won't fit because of another little bit of metal welded onto the bonnet. I am gonna cut it off today and see if it will fit then.

My plan is to get all the little fiddly bits done and then run it up to my bosses brothers garage to get the welding and brakes sorted.
Any ideas why the brakes might be described as 'spongy'
 
rasclatMC said:
.
Any ideas why the brakes might be described as 'spongy'
Click to expand...

Entrained air, aerated fluid, poor condition fluid, DOT5 silicone fluid in a standard system...

What condition is your brake fluid in? if it's blackish and you have no idea when it's been serviced I'd flush and refill. A good bleeding would likely do wonders along with a swap-out of the fluid.

Alan
 
Thanks Alan. I will bleed the brakes on my next day off and then it should be ready to go to the garage to get the welding sorted.
I have done all the fiddly little jobs and am very pleased. Would have cost a fortune to get it sorted by someone else.
I need to get the dark link ball joints replaced. Can I buy the ends or does the whole bar need replacing?

On a side note a swapped the diff oil as I was tinkering around underneath. It was like brown treacle. Obviously hadn't been done for a while.
 
It's quite satisfying to do your own repairs, I presume you mean drag link ball joints and yes all steering ball joints can be replaced you need to make sure you put them back on at the same length or get the MOT garage to adjust the tracking for you once you've swapped them. Penetration fluid, a hammer, a ring spanner and a vice are all helpful/needed to get the old ones out
 
Marmaduke said:
It's quite satisfying to do your own repairs, I presume you mean drag link ball joints and yes all steering ball joints can be replaced you need to make sure you put them back on at the same length or get the MOT garage to adjust the tracking for you once you've swapped them. Penetration fluid, a hammer, a ring spanner and a vice are all helpful/needed to get the old ones out
Click to expand...

As Marmaduke says, once you get the joints slack, count how many turns it takes to wind the old joint off. Make a note of the turns! Then wind the new one on the same number of turns. That way the steering geometry should be the same.
 
Cheers guys. Yeh I meant 'drag link', I'm on my phone. I hate predictive text. Is it worth replacing the whole bar or just the ends?
 
Just the joints on the end unless its bent. Although the whole bar and joints are not too expensive. Money you don't need to spend though!
 
And don't buy cheapo ones as they won't last, I think mine were Delpi ones, not the cheapest but not the most expensive either
 
I was gonna nip up to paddock spares and grab a couple tomorrow if I get time. When I called earlier they said they were in stock at around £5 each
 
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