mrnice

mrnice

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Hi there, ive just got back from the test center, and its failed on "offside front wheel bearing has excessive play" Ive known the tester for years and he has said to me that i need to tighten it up, i was just wondering how to set about this task? i thought i would have to tighten up the large hub bolt but he seems to think i have to remove the shims from some top and bottom bolts and tighten them up to take up the pay. Im a little confused so a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.:)

Oh and the other fails were N/S rear fog light not working (not really that bothered) and N/S rear brake pipe excessively corroded. (i had also noticed this previously and have now asked him to replace that for me).

Overall im quite happy, it could have been worse.

Not bad for a 14 year old tractor made in a shed in solihul:)
 
wheel off, flange off, unbend locking ring, outer hub nut off, ring off, tighten inner nut to take up slack, ring on, outer nut on tight, bend ring, flange on, whel on, job done. you will need a hub nut spanner on a fender its 52mm dunno about disco though.
 
It's the same size on Disco too, is it a requiremnt to have 2 foglights working for the MOT? I always thought you only needed one on the O/S in the uk, i have bought cars in the past that didn't have a bulb fitted in the N/S foglight space but not had problems like that. In fact just had a look on this website (http://www.motester.co.uk/CarOwnersGuidetoTheMOT/WhatIsTested.aspx) and it says there that it's only the offside required for foglights.
 
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yeah neither of them work, but he only failed me on the one that had to (i think), its all sorted now.
 
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Thankyou monsieur I have just bought the sealey:) hopefully it should be here pretty quick.
 
From the mechanics description .. are you sure he said wheel bearing and not swivel bearing?

Swivels do need shims removing to tighten them up. Just a thought ... ;)
 
Paul D said:
From the mechanics description .. are you sure he said wheel bearing and not swivel bearing?

Swivels do need shims removing to tighten them up. Just a thought ... ;)
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the refusal certificate sais "O/S front wheel bearing has excessive play" but im more inclined to say he meant the swivel bearing from his description on how to sort it, how hard is this to do and do you know what it involves, any tools, bits and bobs to purchase beforehand etc?:)
 
Undo the top 2 bolts that hold the top swivel pin in place and remove swivel pin. check shims and remove thinnest shim from stack refit pin & bolt down and check for play and movement of hub. If you have to drag the hub round it's too tight if it moves too easily remove a 2nd shim and try again.
 
just found this:- Land Rover Forum looks really informative but it goes on about having to remove the caliper, and using a balance scale to get the right resistance, is this all really neccasary. Ive never done one before.(ABS model)
 
mrnice said:
just found this:- Land Rover Forum looks really informative but it goes on about having to remove the caliper, and using a balance scale to get the right resistance, is this all really neccasary. Ive never done one before.(ABS model)
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Like Fanatic said, it is important to get swivel pre-load right. The later ABS hubs have a different setting to other models and the reference to a spring balance needs to be treated withe caution because the swivels should be set with a torque wrench.

However, I have been a bit cheeky before now and have measured the resistance of a "good side" using a spring balance then set the other side to match - seems to have worked so far.
 
cool, so does anyone know the pre load setting is for my ABS hubs? and what tools will i def need for the job? balance scale, torque wrench etc? is this the kind of job i should attempt myself or is it one for the experts? as this is my familly truck i dont want to take any chances with the sprogs. cheers.
 
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mrnice said:
cool, so does anyone know the pre load setting is for my ABS hubs? and what tools will i def need for the job? balance scale, torque wrench etc? is this the kind of job i should attempt myself or is it one for the experts? as this is my familly truck i dont want to take any chances with the sprogs. cheers.
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It is an easy job but if the pre-load is similar to my RRC you will need a sensitive torque wrench. If I remember correctly it says the torque required to turn the swivel after overcoming inertia should be something ridiculous like 6lbft (not a lot or F.A. Squared!) I think also, with the spring balance method, there are different values depending on whether the hub is fully assembled with CV joint in place or just the swivel (with calliper and CV joints removed). (always assumed all steering ball joints/drag link/track rod disconnected of course!) I think I had a spring pull of 12 or 14 kg on the Rangie with a fully built up hub, calliper and CV in place.

Hope that kinda helps but ultimately if you have any doubts send to an appropriate garage to do it!!
 
cheers, tell me, it says in the instructions i was reading that it is absolutel essential to use a torque wrench to tighten the 2 swivel pin bolts, do i definately need one? (trying to keep costs down at the mo i am soooo skint)
 
mrnice said:
cheers, tell me, it says in the instructions i was reading that it is absolutel essential to use a torque wrench to tighten the 2 swivel pin bolts, do i definately need one? (trying to keep costs down at the mo i am soooo skint)
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Possibly not, from what I can remember the torque setting for them is not that high. Unfortunately I am away at the moment so I can't check manual, maybe some kind soul could check the torque values and advise if FT would do!
 
apparently i have to torque down the top swivel pin to 78NM but that means nothing to me having never used a TW.
 
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