That was my first thought and not a good idea right now. Much prefer your first answer!!Well there ARE more expensive fixes - new engine etc.
but didn't think that was a good idea ...
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
Your having a bad week! You were in a situation like myself, wanted to do the work myself but also needed it for work so had to pay through the nose to keep it on the road. The answer in my case was to buy another car for work and then i could strip mine down to fix and learn. Once you have found your way around the landy, you can sell the car and be confident in tackling your own repairs.
Yeah I've had a nightmare since I bought it, 2 months ago. I'm partly to blame as I bought it with my eyes shut but bought it from a landy "specialist" garage owner who said it'd been well maintained etc so thought it'd alright. Had nothing but trouble with it. Wanted one for ages and I'm getting to the point where I'm sick of it which is disappointing. Hopefully I'll sort these things out and then I can start enjoying it!
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
Same as me, i paid a lot for a " rebuilt " 110. Wanted it, bought it and regretted it once i started to find my way around it. Should have let head rule heart but thats me all over. The sickness in the stomace will go away and as you learn, watch you tube vids and get some good advice on here, you will grow to accept the breaking down part and enjoy the running good for now times. You certainly wont be the only owner constantly throwing money at it to keep it on the road.
You said you got it from a landy specialist 2 months ago? Did it not come with at least a 3 month warranty?
ProcrastinatorFraser
Active Member
No, he actually just said cover the ones i had fitted to stop them corroding more.
wirral_series2a
Active Member
I to got shafted by a 'decent' bloke. I think quite a few of us have been duped...but as said above..they are cracking cars to fix ( oh before I forget, buy new caliper mounting bolts - 2 per caliper - as these are a right pig to remove and often get rounded off etc )...so once you have spent on a new galvanized chassis/gearbox/rebuilt hubs/shafts etc etc., then we can compare notes ! lol
Chin up, it can only get better.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Then your MOT man is a cock..
Covering pipes is common practice, and have done it on my own vehicles if the metal pipes are in good condition and able to preserve them.
To suggest doing it to rusty/rotten pipes is just down right dangerous in my opinion.
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
Order the correct bolts, there are different once, I ordered a set for my callipers and then found they were wrong.
I too got done over with my purchase of my "never welded" land rover 90...
With the "bullet proof engine that will go forever" which died a month later, just before the filler started to drop off from over the rust and expanding foam
keep going with your truck, ive learnt so much from being hands on with mine, however mine is just a toy and i have another car for going places that i need to be at.
Goodluck
discomania
Well-Known Member
So i took my 90 in for its MOT today and it spectacularly failed. Here is the list:
So my plan is:
- Exhaust emits an excess level blah blah blah. Averaged 4.31 with max allowable of 3
- Brake pipe excessively corroded, 3 separate places towards the front calipers
- Suspension component mounting area is excessively corroded, nearside rear
- Axle king pin has excessive play, both sides
- Rear disk break contaminated with oil, both sides
- Put some injector cleaner, decent diesel (shell V-Power etc) and new filter in and take it for a good blow out. I think this is mainly because i do alot of short journeys in the thing and never a good run. Plenty of black smoke when the foot is flat to the floor! Yes, also get her warm before the MOT. Book it in for a preset time and drive it the long way there, along a motorway or good A road. Also think about tossing some biodiesel in the tank.
- Have the garage replace the pipes, i cant do it myself. Can you work some spanners? Get the pipes made up at a motor factors or buy the kit. If you remove the old ones, take them in as templates. I paid £24 for all the pipes for my 90.
- Have the garage patch and weld it as i cant weld. Fair enough. - Suggest you don't use the garage unless they are recommended or known for welding. You want this done properly. I have see so many "garage" weld jobs that are just lazy, rubbish repairs covered in thick gunge. A good welder will cut a nice piece of steel, WELD it in, and then prime and paint, so the repair is quite visible with a nice seam of weld all around the patch. If it is hidden the welder is just a mechanic who claims he can weld.
- Replace both swivel balls, bearings, seals and swivel pin. Getting a bearmach swivel kit and fitting myself. How difficult is this? Not bad, if your asking then you need to read the workshop manual for the job, look at the video on you tube of the girl in South Africa who is being helped buy a very knowledgeable gent/mechanic: , it's a two part video and better than anything else; unlike like the very able but unable to think through or understand the engineering involved chap who charges you for some you tube videos.
- The tester said it was a "seal rear half shaft" and is quoting 15.98 each. Any ideas what the part number is for this? How difficult is this to do as i'd like to do this myself. Stub Axle oil seal. Not a bad job again, CLEANLINESS and carefully fitting the new seal and all will be fine.
To do the lot, they quoted £1056 all in but 400 was for the swivel kit fitting and the rear seal so want to tackle these myself.
Appreciate any help and guidance on the above or suggestions if my plan is way off the mark.
No it didn't come with a warranty. I went back to the guy after i discovered a load of issues and he wanted nothing to do with it. Ive asked around and apparently he's known for it. He'll do work and when something goes wrong, just turns his back and doesn't want to know.
Long term that's what i'd like to do. I wanted to spend the minimum on it this year and then re-build it next year when ive got some money together. That's if i keep the thing so we'll see.
I found that video at the weekend and have been through the workshop manual now. I'm pretty sure between me and my mate who's pretty handy with a spanner, we'll be able to do it.
So i ordered everything I need and more just in case. Pretty much ordered all the bolts, washers everything in case anything is damaged. Also ordered new Timkin bearings for all corners as i thought i might as well change them while i'm at it. Knowing my luck i'll take it apart and the bearings will fall out in pieces and i wouldn't have any replacements. going to look at getting an impact wrench aswell, looked at the clarke mains powered electric one from machine mart for £68. It seems to have decent reviews and i don't have an air compressor so mains powered seems to be the best alternative. Any recommendations?
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Went through the quandary of electric impact (the one you are looking at), battery or air.
Think about the pros and cons. Electric, plug in an use, but big heavy and awkward. Battery, needs to be charged for when you need it and can run out on the job. Good ones are expensive. Cheap ones are lowered powered or older battery tech. In the end I went for air and I've never looked back. Belt driven so not too loud. The tools are lightweight, easy to handle and cheap - most important of all, the noise they make is cool, especially the drill.
Think about the pros and cons. Electric, plug in an use, but big heavy and awkward. Battery, needs to be charged for when you need it and can run out on the job. Good ones are expensive. Cheap ones are lowered powered or older battery tech. In the end I went for air and I've never looked back. Belt driven so not too loud. The tools are lightweight, easy to handle and cheap - most important of all, the noise they make is cool
, especially the drill.
wirral_series2a
Active Member
Bit of an update for anyone who's interested:
I got the electric clarke impact wrench and it's a great bit of kit, well worth the money if you dont have an air compressor etc like me.
For the MOT issues:
I had the brake lines and welding done at the garage.
This weekend I tackled all the other jobs:
Replaced the swivel balls, seals, pins top and bottom as well as the bushes and bearings and replaced the hub bearings and seals. Changed all the bolts and gaskets etc while i was there
Replaced the front diff pinion seal as that was leaking, not an MOT issue but the prop was chucking oil everywhere underneath.
Replaced the stub axle seals on the back, both side as well as the hub bearings, hub seal and new brake pads.
Turned down the fuel pump for the emissions, will turn it back up a bit now as it's steady steady now
The above took me and the old man all day sat and Sunday, thank god its was a bank holiday on Monday.
Took it down for a re-test today and passed, so its back on the road. Only advisory was an oil leak that i know about and think is the rear engine seal by the looks of where the oil is dripping.
Pleased with that and thanks for all the help/advise.
Cheers lads!
I got the electric clarke impact wrench and it's a great bit of kit, well worth the money if you dont have an air compressor etc like me.
For the MOT issues:
I had the brake lines and welding done at the garage.
This weekend I tackled all the other jobs:
Replaced the swivel balls, seals, pins top and bottom as well as the bushes and bearings and replaced the hub bearings and seals. Changed all the bolts and gaskets etc while i was there
Replaced the front diff pinion seal as that was leaking, not an MOT issue but the prop was chucking oil everywhere underneath.
Replaced the stub axle seals on the back, both side as well as the hub bearings, hub seal and new brake pads.
Turned down the fuel pump for the emissions, will turn it back up a bit now as it's steady steady now
The above took me and the old man all day sat and Sunday, thank god its was a bank holiday on Monday.
Took it down for a re-test today and passed, so its back on the road. Only advisory was an oil leak that i know about and think is the rear engine seal by the looks of where the oil is dripping.
Pleased with that and thanks for all the help/advise.
Cheers lads!
raywin
Well-Known Member
Well done !!
I am sure your success will give heart to many others who are trapped between fear of tackling jobs and frightening garage bills.
Well done that you also left the brakes etc this time to avoid any safety issues.
Bet it wont be long before you will face any job.
I am sure your success will give heart to many others who are trapped between fear of tackling jobs and frightening garage bills.
Well done that you also left the brakes etc this time to avoid any safety issues.
Bet it wont be long before you will face any job.
