JamesBB

JamesBB

Active Member
aggggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
After spending hundreds of pounds on stuff it failed!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not sure on what yet, will find out in the morning.
Still need to replace the air springs, but it was pumped up and working when I left it. I guess it could fail with worn springs...........
Will update tomorrow.
Sick of cars, might stick to my push bike. :-(
 
If the bags are worn badly or split, it will fail regardless of if it is holding air and sitting level....IIRC
 
Just make sure they haven't failed it on some of the new things that don't actually apply. An example is the headlamp washers - only testable for HID lights - not standard ones as on the P38 which sometimes don't work anyway.
 
Failure items.
Fog lamp switch - which is rubbish as it worked the night before. 75 pounds to replace.
Front Radius arm bushes worn to excess. 220 pounds to replace.
NS track rod worn and gater split. 300 to replace.
Tyres fouling on front wheel arches - After Tyres Direct assured me in writing that the tyres they supplied are fit for a P38. I have that in writing when supplied last Nov.

It has been off the road since about Oct/Nov having other repairs done and SORN too so these tyres have seen no use at all other than yesterday's drive to the MOT centre.

Not sure what to do. Even if I fix the fog lap switch myself and Tyres Direct are good enough to exchange the tyres for sensible ones, I am looking at 500 unexpected quid. Bugger....
 
You can do that yourself for a lot less than £100.00 in bits. Why has fog switch failed could just be a bulb. Radius arm bushes would have to be seriously worn and detached to fail MOT. He is really taking the **** with the track rod. What size tyres/wheels are they?
 
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Looking about I may be able to get the parts for about 100 quid. Not sure about fitting some of this though as these components are all new territory for me as far as mechanical experience in replacing similar items on any type of car.

Any tips? easy jobs or nightmares?
The hinging item is really these f&*@#*ing tyres. I hope they replace them.

If not I will sell these tyres and the wheels they are on.

Chers guys, thanks for your help as always.
 
Everything is pretty simple to do. You would need to remove the trackrod or at least one end of it to do the radius arm bushes. Radius arm bushes one side at a time, can be got out with a good pointed punch driven between arm and bush shell. Can be got back in with a good vice and a made up plate and a piece of tube. Track rod you just adjust new one as near as possible to length of old one and drop it back. You will need to have car tracked though. You may find it easier to get new bolts in radius arm bushes straight away sometimes old ones have to be butchered out. Pretty easy all in all just a little thought but depends on your available tooling and ingenuity. No way should anyone be charging £300.00 to fit a new track rod that is ridiculous. OEM is about £70.00. Britpart about £33.00 and even genuine Land rover is £114.00. Charging £300.00 for half an hours work and bits including tracking is a total **** take. As for the tyres catching just adjust the lockstops to stop that.
 
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+1 to the above - simple jobs, just need some thought on pressing out and in the new bushes...but totoally doable.....those prices are stupid!!
 
Thanks again for the encouragement guys.

I am picking it up from them Weds, missed it today. At that point I will ask to see each failure point so I know for sure.
Then I need to resolve the tyres issue and get ready to order parts......

Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
Thanks again for the encouragement guys.

I am picking it up from them Weds, missed it today. At that point I will ask to see each failure point so I know for sure.
Then I need to resolve the tyres issue and get ready to order parts......

Cheers
Click to expand...

If the fogs work (come on) there has to be a telltale lamp illuminated. If it's just that it's a few pence for a bulb. Bit of a pain to fit though.
 
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Sorry I have been away all day.
Tyres are 255/65/16
I have 2 Malatesta Kobra and 2 Kingpin Amazon (both the same tread).

I will check the bulb on the foglight switch, wonder if it is that....
 
Another thing I was advised on, although obviously not a failure......
There is an oil leak from the rear top of the engine that is dripping down onto the gearbox.

Anybody know if this is a usual prob on the V8s? I know they are oil leaky drippy happy, but there must be a gasket/seal that is failing. Normally a steam clean would show the source, but I have read "not on a P38" and I can understand that is a dodgy option.
 
JamesBB said:
Another thing I was advised on, although obviously not a failure......
There is an oil leak from the rear top of the engine that is dripping down onto the gearbox.

Anybody know if this is a usual prob on the V8s? I know they are oil leaky drippy happy, but there must be a gasket/seal that is failing. Normally a steam clean would show the source, but I have read "not on a P38" and I can understand that is a dodgy option.
Click to expand...

Tyres should be fine if you are running standard wheels. I would think the lock stops need adjusting to stop foul on arch liners. Lock stops are important to prevent over articulation of CV joints. Oil leak more than likely valley gasket.
 
wammers said:
Tyres should be fine if you are running standard wheels. I would think the lock stops need adjusting to stop foul on arch liners. Lock stops are important to prevent over articulation of CV joints. Oil leak more than likely valley gasket.
Click to expand...

The main issue with the tyres is the tread is near half to an inch deep, so the overall wheel geometry is bigger. The wheels are standard. So I will chck the lock stops.

When at standard height (or any height above access height) everyting is fine. When at access height the tyres disappear up into the arch, maybe just about a finger gap between.

Is the valley gasket change an easy one? Souds it potentially.

Thanks
 
JamesBB said:
The main issue with the tyres is the tread is near half to an inch deep, so the overall wheel geometry is bigger. The wheels are standard. So I will chck the lock stops.

When at standard height (or any height above access height) everyting is fine. When at access height the tyres disappear up into the arch, maybe just about a finger gap between.

Is the valley gasket change an easy one? Souds it potentially.

Thanks
Click to expand...
It should be tested at standard height, depth of tread is irrelevant.
 
Datatek said:
It should be tested at standard height, depth of tread is irrelevant.
Click to expand...

That is what I thought, but the LR dealer (doing the MOT) said it will fail if there is fouling at any height. I guess the issue is you can start up and drive off at access height?
 
JamesBB said:
That is what I thought, but the LR dealer (doing the MOT) said it will fail if there is fouling at any height. I guess the issue is you can start up and drive off at access height?
Click to expand...

Bull****, it is tested at the height presented. If there is no foul at standard height it cannot be failed. There is no stipulation in MOT to test at all heights. Take it somewhere else he is a prat. Unless at access you lock the suspension in creep mode it will rise as soon as you move forwards.
 
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