that's a silly price, i've got a few complete dashs kicking around if you can't find a sensible priced one on ebay
that's a silly price, i've got a few complete dashs kicking around if you can't find a sensible priced one on ebay
tombardier
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the offer, but how far from the Forest of Dean is The Village of the Doomed? 
I might get some conducting paint, and re-paint the pathways on the pcb thing. If that fixes it, I'm laughin!
Going to start on my cross-member again at 12. Using the MIG today. My arc welding rods were damp after being in the shed, and despite leaving them on the radiator all night last night, I think I'll feel more comfortable with the MIG today after the nightmare I had striking and keeping an ARC going yesterday! Took some piccies of the awful hack job I started yesterday, and the other side that I haven't touched yet. They're here:
Think it can be rescued? I'm a bit annoyed at the hole on the lower left of the plate I've welded, which I'll need to cut out and start again on D: I was wishing I'd never touched it last night,
I might get some conducting paint, and re-paint the pathways on the pcb thing. If that fixes it, I'm laughin!
Going to start on my cross-member again at 12. Using the MIG today. My arc welding rods were damp after being in the shed, and despite leaving them on the radiator all night last night, I think I'll feel more comfortable with the MIG today after the nightmare I had striking and keeping an ARC going yesterday! Took some piccies of the awful hack job I started yesterday, and the other side that I haven't touched yet. They're here:
Think it can be rescued? I'm a bit annoyed at the hole on the lower left of the plate I've welded, which I'll need to cut out and start again on D: I was wishing I'd never touched it last night,
Thanks for the offer, but how far from the Forest of Dean is The Village of the Doomed?
it's a bit far to come on a push bike but am sure postman pat knows where you live
there's no point in cutting out the rot on a chassis or x-member, flush the crap out then fill the void with rust stopper then cut the plate big enough to cover it and big enough so you're welding it to some solid metal
but - looking at the above picture those rust flakes on the inside indicate that even the externally good looking metal is going to be very very thin - it also looks like there's hand fulls of mud in there, so you'll have some fun welding those 3mm patch plates to the existing varying thickness steel
tombardier
Well-Known Member
Luckily, the MOT doesn't expire for another couple of weeks, so I've got time to do it properly. I think you're right about plating it up externally. I just wish I'd done that to start with (and wish I hadn't persevered with damp welding rods, 3mm plate, and gung-ho angle grinding that would be more suited to a scrap metal yard!)..
when you say about filling the void with rust stopper, what kind of product do you mean? Is it wise to do it before welding as well? If it was a waxoyl or filler type substance, could it be flammable?
Cheers for the help.
when you say about filling the void with rust stopper, what kind of product do you mean? Is it wise to do it before welding as well? If it was a waxoyl or filler type substance, could it be flammable?
Cheers for the help.
so you took it for an early MOT which it failed ?
tombardier
Well-Known Member
yes. you're going to tell that I lost my two weeks grace time by taking it early now aren't you
yes. you're going to tell that I lost my two weeks grace time by taking it early now aren't you
where'd the 2 weeks grace time come from, is that when your previous MOT was due ?
tombardier
Well-Known Member
yes it was. although I still have two weeks to get a free re-test (went to Just-MOTs)
just as well you weren't planing to drive it anywhere other than to a pre-booked MOT then eh
tombardier
Well-Known Member
erm.. yes.... precisely. I just hope it stops drizzling today
erm.. yes.... precisely. I just hope it stops drizzling today
it's only water ! - construct a little tent, or get the doris to hold a brolly
it's probably not worth using any rust stopper as it looks a bit too far gone, just plate it and paint it
tombardier
Well-Known Member
well, i've just been cleaning it up, and, despite the lack of penetration in some places, it's not looking nearly as bad. It's nice and flat enough to put a plate over the top now, but i'm tempted to carry on insert plates, jigsaw style.
RUDDdefender90
New Member
once ya painted it over, will they even know the differeance. but will it be any good for towing in the future or being pulled out back first from within a ditch?
tombardier
Well-Known Member
looking at this rot I just found with my chipping hammer, I would say no
jamescronin
Active Member
I'd say chop the whole thing off, and get a new xmember with extensions on - it does mean chopping back the main chassis 6 inches or so, but it will make sure the job will last some time. I payed a local landy welder just over £350 for the whole job and parts, including repainting of the cahssis as well. I think he did fit a ****part xmember which is only about 3mm thick so watch out, but it has pulled lorrys witout any problems!
If you patch it, all that is going to happen in the long run is that you end up putting more patches on next year, and when you come to tow something heavy , it either snaps, or bends, causing damage to the chassis as well.
If you patch it, all that is going to happen in the long run is that you end up putting more patches on next year, and when you come to tow something heavy , it either snaps, or bends, causing damage to the chassis as well.
tombardier
Well-Known Member
i only use the towbar for a small trailer full of horse crap occasionally, and we could use a quad for that anyway. I'd rather spend £less to get it through the MOT by patching (after having decided today not to do it myself), and then at some point later in the year, shell out the full whack for a new one wholesale. £350 is too much for me right now! it really does need sorting though.
the OEM x-member is only 2mm thick, but probably better quality steel than britpart...
the OEM x-member is only 2mm thick, but probably better quality steel than britpart...
RUDDdefender90
New Member
on ebay they make their own part and fit the xmember for 350 all in. people say its good, on here. 3mm.
I think if you cant repair it yourself, that means your gona have to pay big bucks. I was quoted at a garage to repair three small 50 pence holes on xmember and it was gona cost me 160£ plus vat. got mate to do it in end for £50. I think ya should get a normal hammer and smash it all. I did so and found another two small holes, but atleast I know its solid? if it holds to that, its good. can always borrow money of family and friends yeah?
I think if you cant repair it yourself, that means your gona have to pay big bucks. I was quoted at a garage to repair three small 50 pence holes on xmember and it was gona cost me 160£ plus vat. got mate to do it in end for £50. I think ya should get a normal hammer and smash it all. I did so and found another two small holes, but atleast I know its solid? if it holds to that, its good. can always borrow money of family and friends yeah?
Last edited:
tombardier
Well-Known Member
I've got a chap to do my welding for £70, so i'm happy with that. Will get a new cross-member in a couple of months I think. Will keep welding on things that aren't quite as important in the mean time
well, it looks like my cross-member is a lot worse than I originally thought. I've managed to poke several holes in it, on each side where the chassis meets the cross member. I've cut out some holes on one side, and tried welding some plates in, but I think all my arc welding sticks are damp from being in the shed, so it was a bit of a nightmare. It was getting dark so I decided to leave it how it was and dig out the MIG tomorrow morning. I might actually get it done professionally though, as the bad patches are about 6 inches across, near the bottom, stretching up about halfway up the cross member. it wasn't nearly that bad when i painted the crossmember with hammerite
i was wondering. the hazard switch has a light in it. The switch i've just ordered should have that working, but if the indicator light doesn't work on the instrument panel, is that still a fail for the MOT, or is the light in the switch enough?
You need to keep your welding rods in the airing cupboard - solves the dampness problem...
