R

rickster30

New Member
Hi,

Well I took in my Freelander today for the annual MOT, unfortunately it failed!! I was not to surprised as I was kind of expecting this, it failed on the following;

Rear exhaust silencer blowing (major leak)
N/S front anti-roll bar linkage excessive play in ball joint
O/S & N/S rear brake pipe excessively corroded, may require wheel cylinders
Rear number plate bulbs not working

Advisory
N/S front to rear brake pipe slightly corroded
O/S front to rear brake pipe slightly corroded
under trays fitted obscuring some underside components
engine covers fitted obscuring some components in the engine bay

When I got home I tested the rear number plate bulbs to find them working perfectly??!!
underside and engine bay covers have always been on the car??

To do all the work they want around the £450 mark, so I am going to do as much of it myself as I can, the exhaust I can get for £38, cheap I know but ok if it only last a couple of years, anti roll bar I will try and do, is it that hard of a job?
Not sure how to do the brake pipes, assuming this is more difficult, but will need to find somewhere cheaper, as they want over £200 for this part of the job.
As for the advisories, what the hell do they mean by the covers?? don't all the freelanders of this era have them??!!

Thanks
 
Yep - seems a standard comment on the "undertray covers" etc - got it on my Adisories last week - plus the fact I had not bothered to put the little bolts back in ! Doesn't look a bad list of failures - think I have more to do on mine and it passed !

Brake pipes look an expensive repair - just the hours cost I suppose so worth getting a kit and doing them yourself .
 
drop links are easy - but get a decent set of allen keys.

it looks like they are making comments like that as normal.
 
brake pipes most of the time just need a clean with a wire brush and slap some grease on them handy to do the front while the wheels are off as well

Ron
 
Hello,

See http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/brake-pipe-renewel-any-interest-how-i-did-mine-242860.html the writeup is still work in progress.. but ongoing. If you need any specific info then just ask..

Replacing the pipes is actually very easy.. just takes a little time. I suppose it all depends on how quickly you need to be back on the road..
If the rear pipes are knackered, then I expect that the front ones are very similar.
Have a look near the front pipe to flexible pipe junction (on both sides, front wheel arch.. you can't miss it). Expect rust.

If you are considering doing everything yourself, then I would recommend replacing the rear brake cylinders and overhauling the front calipers as well.

The advisories on the engine covers and undertrays just means that the mot inspector couldn't see everything.. totally meaningless really. They **have** to put this now.

Rear number plate bulbs: You can get intermittent connections here.. just remove the bulbs and clean off any surface corrosion.. 2 minute job.

Others here will advise you on the anti-roll bar.. I've never had to do this (yet!)

Bodge99

EDIT: I've just re-read your post.. They might mean that both pigtails are knackered. These are the short rear lengths from the flexible pipe to the brake cylinders. Some motor factors will make up pipes for you.
You could remove the old ones and get them copied in copper or nickel/copper. You might get away with cleaning up and greasing the other pipes. If so, a very easy fix.

Bodge99
 
Last edited:
advisories are just that...advice...i usually check the advised items then just keep an eye on them...in most cases i find the advisories are just the garage fishing for work.i could spend an hour listing stories about advisories..........
The tester cannot remove anything to perform the test...top or bottom engine covers....sill covers etc so he is covering his arse by saying he cannot test everything because he cant see it....the only exception to this is if its covered in mud,he can then refuse to test it till its been cleaned.
 
Thanks for the advice, the car is not my main drive, so no rush to get it back on the road. Will do the jobs I can do to start, might have to wait until January due to xmas and money etc, very interested in your write up on the brake pipe replacement, just not sure if I could do it, but the fact it is well detailed means I might have a go, are the parts required to do it expensive? I know they would be cheaper than a garage, but money is always tight this year, so need to do it on a budget.
 
rickster30 said:
Thanks for the advice, the car is not my main drive, so no rush to get it back on the road. Will do the jobs I can do to start, might have to wait until January due to xmas and money etc, very interested in your write up on the brake pipe replacement, just not sure if I could do it, but the fact it is well detailed means I might have a go, are the parts required to do it expensive? I know they would be cheaper than a garage, but money is always tight this year, so need to do it on a budget.
Click to expand...

Hello,
I understand exactly what you mean.. If you know how to use a set of spanners and can safely jack up a freelander then you can change the brake pipes. What year and model freelander have you got?

Bodge99
 
bodge99 said:
Hello,
I understand exactly what you mean.. If you know how to use a set of spanners and can safely jack up a freelander then you can change the brake pipes. What year and model freelander have you got?

Bodge99
Click to expand...

If that's the basics I need, should be ok, have been doing any works so far myself ( I do work for Jag land rover :) ) Mines a 2002 Td4
What's the cost roughly of the parts I will need?
 
Last edited:
Hello.

Basic prices:

Copper pipe 3/16" 25 foot coil £12-15 (need 2 for everything).
Rear brake cylinder £10 - £15 each.
Pipe bender, cutting tool and flaring tool: Kit is £20
Pipe/flare nuts 10 for under £5
Flexible hose clamp under £5 (only reqd. for partial pipe replacement).

All from Ebay.

Bodge99
 
bodge99 said:
Hello.

Basic prices:

Copper pipe 3/16" 25 foot coil £12-15 (need 2 for everything).
Rear brake cylinder £10 - £15 each.
Pipe bender, cutting tool and flaring tool: Kit is £20
Pipe/flare nuts 10 for under £5
Flexible hose clamp under £5 (only reqd. for partial pipe replacement).

All from Ebay.

Bodge99
Click to expand...

Nice one thanks, less than I thought, have noticed you can get the brake pipes ready made to order on ebay, is this worth it?
 
Last edited:
rickster30 said:
Nice one thanks, less than I thought, have noticed you can get the brake pipes ready made to order on ebay, is this worth it?
Click to expand...

I always make my own pipes. I tried fitting a ready made kit once, never again as all the pipes were to short to follow the correct route.
 
Are the eezibleed any good coz of the price I thought they were oneof them things u get what u pay for as £20 aint alot
 
Hello,

I'd bet money that every single older "spanner jockey" has fond memories of brake bleeding with a 9" length of rubber pipe and a jam jar... normally in winter and with "the significant other" actually pumping the brake pedal..

I've had several easybleeds over the years.. I've only had to replace them because they have either been stolen (twice!!) or never returned after being loaned to "that good mate"..

Once you've used one, you won't want to go back to the manual method. A cheap tool that is actually worth the money. Far easier and quicker in use..

I'm putting a writeup on this in my brakeline renewel "epic".

Bodge99.
 
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