landykev

New Member
1) Picture of bulkhead. (this is solid as a rock but will it fail MOT) ?

2) Oil leek from ball area (How much to fix) ?

3) Tail of exhaust missing (How Much to replace) ?

4) Can this be welded ?

I suppose theres more faults, as I know nowt about cars.

Any help please
If anyone knows what a garage would charge for fixing the lot,would be helpfull.
 

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1) Picture of bulkhead. (this is solid as a rock but will it fail MOT) ?

2) Oil leek from ball area (How much to fix) ?

3) Tail of exhaust missing (How Much to replace) ?

4) Can this be welded ?

I suppose theres more faults, as I know nowt about cars.

Any help please
If anyone knows what a garage would charge for fixing the lot,would be helpfull.

Based on xperience i would say;

1) = not a fail
2) = FAIL, if the oil is getting onto the tyres, which it is. Drain the swivel down and put one shot grease in instead, clean up the area. Easy job
3) = Probable FAil. Fumes will collect under the vehicle which could be dangerous. Take it to an xhaust place if you don't fancy doin it yaself
4) = FAIL and YES it can be welded (ANYTHING can be welded on a Landy:D ) Should not be more than £50 for a garage to patch repair

If these are the only problems then u aint got much to worry about. I suspect tehre may bne others tho'......
 
Thank you very much for your reply
Regarding weld No 4 pic, it was intact till I put my thumb onto it then it all just broke away. Looks dangerous to me,would you not use the landy on the road till its done ???? thanks
 
Your biggest problem is that rusted lower shock mount on the axle. Probably best to replace the axle with a good secondhand one.
 
No need to replace the axle. You can get new shock mounts for only a few quid to weld on. If you can do it yourself the seals etc to rebuild your swivels are about 15 quid a side. Exhaust parts are dead cheap from the likes of paddocks. I'd have a poke at that rust on the bulkhead with a screwdriver it might feel solid but it looks like a big hole in the making to me. Replacement panels are about 15 quid a side and a simple job to weld on. Your probably looking at a fair old bill from a garage but if you've got the time and the inclination they're all cheap to sort out.
 
Do you live near the coast per chance or has the motor been used for dunking a boat trailer?

The swivels are a defo fail. As previously stated cheapest option is drain and clean them up. Fill with a sachet of swivel grease and sort them out later when time and money allow. You need to clean all traces of oil otherwise it will fail.
Shock mount is also a probable fail. I've seen new axle casings on eBay for less than £25.
Exhaust will pass if not blowing anywhere else but looks ****e and probably will gas you.
Bulkhead is not a fail but does not look to have long left in this world. I once repaired one on a SIIa but in hindsight it would have been cheaper and quicker to replace the whole bulkhead.
 
No need to replace the axle. You can get new shock mounts for only a few quid to weld on.
Don't be tempted to use a small hobby 150 amp mig welder to do this, You'll need a proper heavy duty mig welder to get proper weld penetration on the axle casing. A small hobby arc welder could be used, but some good overhead arc welding skills will be needed unless you take the axle off.
 
nonsense - i've got a 150A mig and it would be more than capable for doing that axle weld

tis all about technique
 
Are you sure about that Sean? I'm thinking that the axle casing must be 6mm thick or more, which is too much for a 150A mig welder.
 
i am positive - infact my old 130A used to be used for just that task

having a VERY good earth point VERY close to the weld is a must
 
I'd just about trust my 150A welder doing a 6mm corner joint using 0.8mm wire, but not a T joint. Are you using thicker welding wire?
 
I've got a pair of bottom shock mount repair brackets kicking around. You're welcome to them for 20 quid plus the postage.
I bought them to repair me old axle, but then got a Disco axle for a bargain price instead, so I don't need them.
 
0.6mm nice and slow feed so there's plenty of heat built up

the difference a good close earth point makes is not to be underestimated - if you've got a bad earth you could struggle to get good penatration on 2mm steel plate even with a 200A mig
 
I've often wandered if I'm losing some power along the cable that runs from the house out to the workshop (50m).
 
If it hasn't dawned on you yet, then you need to think about buying a MIG welder if you are serious about keeping this motor running long term without taking out another mortgage.

Don't be scared - they are very easy to use with a little practice and come in handy for all kinds of other repairs, they are not even very expensive.

Go on, get involved:p
 
Would not know where to start with welding or repairs
Think your right though, I may sell it and cut my losses,
Any offers lads
 

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