jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Uprated intercooler, up the fuel and boost pressure. Jai
Thin_trucker
Active Member
boost pressure's easy: on the turbo here'll be a little arm that can be adjusted (longer/shorter) make it about 3mm longer and you'll have about as much boost as is safe. You'll find it's easier to unhook the arm to adjust it and then replace it than it is with the arm all connected up. You won't nesseceraly need to adjust the fuell as it'll probably alter itself automaticly but I'm not 100% on that so I'm sure someone else will tell you.
Tig9619
Active Member
Have a look at this for the fuel
As for the turbo, you want to make the actuator rod shorter not longer. if you are going to start playing with boost pressure i would advise you get a larger intercooler as things get very hot very quickly at higher pressures and a boost gauge to see what you are doing. 18psi is about the max you can go to before the turbo itself becomes a restriction in itself due to its flow capacity. 14psi would be a good medium as stock is around 10psi.
Having said all this however it is a 300tdi, a disco and an auto! Its never going to be massively lively but some careful tweaks will no doubt liven it up a bit!
As for the turbo, you want to make the actuator rod shorter not longer. if you are going to start playing with boost pressure i would advise you get a larger intercooler as things get very hot very quickly at higher pressures and a boost gauge to see what you are doing. 18psi is about the max you can go to before the turbo itself becomes a restriction in itself due to its flow capacity. 14psi would be a good medium as stock is around 10psi.
Having said all this however it is a 300tdi, a disco and an auto! Its never going to be massively lively but some careful tweaks will no doubt liven it up a bit!
Thin_trucker
Active Member
You sure? thought having it longer kept the waste gate shut for longer. Anyway - completely agree that a pressure guage is the way to go - a bit of ingenuity with some bits and pieces and a guage off a foot pump will do (worked for me on my little rover 25td) Worth noting though that the boost peaks at a point, roughly when you're accelerating as hard as you can. That's where to look and see what pressure it's got to.
martinhollings
New Member
you need to go shorter that way more pressure is needed to open the wast gate i had to cut a bit of the rod to get it to go up to 18psi
J.P.S
Active Member
Shorter all the way, mine is running 1.3 bar with fuel tweaks!
When i lengthend the rod the turbo hardly spooled, But when it was shortened it erm kinda kicked in and all hell broke loose woooosh away she went tons of power great puffs of black smoke when she works hard an all
Thin_trucker
Active Member
Fair enough, was only checking. Either way the spring needs more tension on it and the wastegate needs to stay shut for longer (I know that bit).
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Your best, safest, next step is to remove the catted exhaust downpipe for a de-catted one - makes a real noticable difference.
Two ways to do it:
1. Defender non-cat downpipe ESR 2297 costs £21.25+vat from Paddocks, or
2. Discovery non-cat downpipe with flexy section, £60+vat.
I've done three now using the defender route and have been happy each time, one was an auto and made a REAL difference.
Good luck
Dave
Medusa
Well-Known Member
Yes that is also possible but is tricky, I had the cat cut open on my old Audi diesel and removed the honeycomb and welded it back up. Low cost and worked well.
A complete system, including the front de-cat manifold to centre pipe, cost me ~£37 off ebay, centre straight through pipe cost £10 at Driffield show just gone. When I get aroundtuit to replace the centre box it'll go on ebay for a fiver collection only ...
At those prices I wouldn't take the time or effort to feck about! ..
When I get aroundtuit to replace the centre box it'll go on ebay for a fiver collection only ... At those prices I wouldn't take the time or effort to feck about! ..
