KrisTheZombie

KrisTheZombie

New Member
Alright I've using a 1.8 Freelander as a cheap runaround, and for what I paid I've been pretty impressed.

One thing I have noticed is the lack of any real power, it's not down on power, put it feels like exactly what it is, a 100bhp lump (I'm rounding up considering the age) in quite a heavy car. I have removed the prop and only running power to the front wheels, and generally intend to keep it that way, as the impression I get is anything mechanical on the Freelander from the drivers seat backwards is a total nightmare.

I know the K series rover engines are quite tune-able in the ZR and MGF, but was wondering if there are any quick and easy ways to get it to somewhere around the 130bhp mark, just to make it a bit easier to live with for 2017 driving.

The engine is standard, I change the engine oil & filter every 6,000 miles, its got a K&N panel air filter, its had an injector treatment, and whenever I can I use premium fuel.

I'd be looking at options of up to around £300.

Thanks
 
The 1.8K will make 118bhp all day long and will have the same power at big mileages from my experience.

Getting up to 130bhp pretty straightforward, but depends on where you want that power (bottom end or top end?) and how much you are prepared to spend/ do yourself.

Peak power is not what I'd be looking for to be honest. I'd be looking to boost the low end torque - and if that modification also netted you close to your desired power output, then great.

I'll suggest what I think would be your best bet: a decent 4:2:1 manifold. On my MGF, the torque from low down was totally transformed by a long primary/ long secondary design made for me by Power Speed in Ashford. I am very tempted to get another made for the Freelander - but the problem is cost, which will be greater than your proposed budget (likely nearer to £500).

Otherwise I'd suggest a high-flow panel filter (take your choice; I use K&N), free flowing exhaust (the standard one doesn't look too bad though) and a pair of R140 cams (as found in the TF135).

That will get you your 130 (probably closer to 140) bhp, but the torque peak won't be in quite the right place.

More expensive options that will transform the car are available - including fitting the 1.8 turbo from either the MGZT/Rover 75 or the MG6 (in the later care, confusingly called the TCi-Tech, but basically the same). Or you could light-pressure turbocharge the standard engine (as BBR GTi did with their 160 package). You'll need a turbo manifold and a down pipe, plus a suitable turbo. Plus a re-map (if you have MEMS3, or if MEMS1.9, you'll need an after-market ECU).

I reckon the LPT solution might be your best bet if you can get the parts for a reasonable sum, but failing that the 4-2-1 manifold.

Good luck :)
 
I agree with Rob.
However for the extra power to be useful. You need to reinstate the 4X4 systems. The 1.8 Freelander is know to spin it's wheels easily is standard trim, when pulling out onto junctions. With more power, and no 4X4 to control the spinning, all the extra power will be wasted.

There's nothing wrong with the 4X4 system. Providing it's looked after using information from here. ;)
 
I have most of the bits to fit an early spec decatted, 4-2-1 exhaust, I've looked at cams and stuff but it's all on the back burner for now
 
The MG/Rover VVC motor makes a nice transplant too - ask Tony Reeves about that.
Lots of tinkering can make reasonable gains: Good gas flow through the motor is important = clean out casting flash from the inlet manifold [or swap to a VVC inlet setup?], de cat exhaust plus remove weld splatter lips ... from front pipes, You have already got a good A/F what about a cold air feed - that alone can add a few extra HP. Those things don't cost much at all.

More technical: port / polish the head = open up inlet & exhaust runners, open up valve throats [ remove lip from the bottom of the valse seats] / prune the protruding valve guides, unshroud the valves and back trim the valves. That latter two might cost about £90 - £100.

Use good fuel 95RON minimum or better still 98RON. Good quality spark plugs - ignition system in good order.

I did the above to my '98 FL1 1.8 to improve its efficiency, I guess I may have added some HP as well. I commonly get mid 30s mpg. I have to say I'm a conservative driver and have a fairly light foot.

I've read that cams can work well and in conjunction with improving the gas flow could give interesting gains. But they do cast ££. What about swapping the injectors to MG ones? I believe they would get more fuel into the motor= power.

Don't forget to check the brake system too, making things go faster needs to have good brakes too!

Sounds like an good project. I'm sure we will all watch with interest. Good luck.
 
Just to note, if you use the VVC inlet plenum, the MPi head will need modifying: the VVC uses larger ports, so there will be a nasty step between the plenum and the head port that will actually reduce gas flow :(

Also, the flange area between the head and the VVC plenum is pretty small; ideally this needs building up (TiG some extra alloy and then machine flat should do the job).

A late plenum from a TF135 may be better, but still isn't ideal :(

Actually not much wrong with the standard plenum: just ensure that flashes are removed and the ports match... :)
 
rob_bell said:
Just to note, if you use the VVC inlet plenum, the MPi head will need modifying: the VVC uses larger ports, so there will be a nasty step between the plenum and the head port that will actually reduce gas flow :(

Also, the flange area between the head and the VVC plenum is pretty small; ideally this needs building up (TiG some extra alloy and then machine flat should do the job).

A late plenum from a TF135 may be better, but still isn't ideal :(

Actually not much wrong with the standard plenum: just ensure that flashes are removed and the ports match... :)
Click to expand...
Re the MPi set-up - would fitting the FL1 injectors be a work around for that?
 
htr said:
Re the MPi set-up - would fitting the FL1 injectors be a work around for that?
Click to expand...

What rob is saying, is the inlet runners of the VVC plenum are larger in diameter than the ports in the head. The port mouth would need to be blended into the runner. All K series injectors are the same physical dimensions. It's only the flow rate that changes between vehicles. So you can use slightly higher flowing injectors to increase power, providing sufficient air is available to burn the extra fuel.
I used VVC 143 injectors in my first ZS180. This was done after I fitted a better air filter and improved exhaust. It made a worthwhile improvement in power at the top of the rev range.
 
Has anyone been able to make appreciable gains to torque from the K series? more power at high RPM isn't much use in a Freelander
 
Alibro said:
Has anyone been able to make appreciable gains to torque from the K series? more power at high RPM isn't much use in a Freelander
Click to expand...

This is where the 4-2-1 manifold comes into it, as when I used to tune cars properly, as in proper exhausts, bigger carbs and altering heads, a 4-2-1 was used for low torque

The later cars have 2 cats, the manifold has 4 very short runners to a cat then is one pipe through another cat
 
Completely agree. I have a long branch (21" primaries) 4-2-1 on my MGF. It feels as though it'll pull tree stumps! :)
 
Agreed. Long primary pipes could well ad 10 Ftlb of torque at 3K Rpm. Binning the pre-cat will also help torque. Getting a decent cold air pickup will also help massively. It's a good mod for any vehicle where the air is drawn in from under the bonnet.
 
Cold air is always good - where does the K draw it's air? Looks to be from behind the inner wing?

Snorkel would be good for cold air. Not sure that'd be right for my Hippo though! ;)
 
rob_bell said:
Cold air is always good - where does the K draw it's air? Looks to be from behind the inner wing?

Snorkel would be good for cold air. Not sure that'd be right for my Hippo though! ;)
Click to expand...

The 1.8 and L series take air from just behind the LH headlight, in the form of a tiny ships air intake looking thing. Not a good location for a cold air intake.

A raised air intake is a good and purposeful looking way to get cold air into the engine.
Htr fitted a discreet cold air intake, behind the LH front wing.
 
Yes, I think I've seen it. What is the ducting made of? Plenty of 70mm flexi hose on the bay of fleas :)
 
70mm pipes through the inner wing where the current resonator chamber pipe goes. From there run the pipe up towards the side repeater and fit a short downturn. Htr has a thread on what he did to his.
 
I used 65mm PVC down pipe - from the marley spouting system. I gently heated it [with a rag inside to prevent kinking] to bend it. The right angle fittings are it'd fittings.
 
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