T

thebhoyo1888

New Member
aye aye all

hows it going? just bought my first landrover last week, a 2.0l td td4 serengetti, so far i think its the mutts nuts, now ive heard a lot of different stuff about chips, magnets for fuel lines, air filters, i could be doing with getting a bit more power and performance out of it, but dont want anything thats going to be a waste of time and money, or damage the engine, have any of you done anything to yours and are happy with the results? im also going to put an a bar on it but they are hard to find nowadays, unless you want a plastic pretend one, any ideas? also, where in or around fife in scotland can you go with a good 4x4 for a good tear up, and carry on

cheers my dears
 
Tuning-diesels for cheaper diesel tuning.

above is link to rons site ,

i can recommend rons synergy unit, best £200 you can spend, great performance effortless driving, loads of torque and power even at 90mph it still wants to keep pulling , im still getting 37mpg without trying , only other mods i have done is removed cat, and inhibited egr valve ,
other thing is service it at the recomended intervals and make sure you keep the injectors clean

best tip ,,,, stay away from LR dealer,, ,,,if you can service it yourself and get to know it
 
john t said:
Tuning-diesels for cheaper diesel tuning.

above is link to rons site ,

i can recommend rons synergy unit, best £200 you can spend, great performance effortless driving, loads of torque and power even at 90mph it still wants to keep pulling , im still getting 37mpg without trying , only other mods i have done is removed cat, and inhibited egr valve ,
other thing is service it at the recomended intervals and make sure you keep the injectors clean

best tip ,,,, stay away from LR dealer,, ,,,if you can service it yourself and get to know it
Click to expand...


thanks, i think ill give them a try, i just saw theyre products there, i think ill go for one of them aswell, and as for the servicing, i plan on doing as much as i can myself, i had a go at changing the oil last weekend, after spending 2 hours looking around for a 36mm socket for the oil filter cap, i then spent another hour trying to get the undertray off, so i gave up, and ive since found out if you undo the 2 brackets at the back, and wedge it down you can get in enough to get to the sump, happy days, so when i get on dry land ill try again, as for the fuel filter, some things are best done by the owner eh? ;-)

by the way, whats this badboy like offroad, im chokin to find out
cheers
 
glad to here you gonna do your own servicing,:) its all quite straight forward

dont mess about,,,, remove the whole undertray it takes 10 mins first time , you have to unbolt the ally front part aswell,(appears your removing part of the subframe, but its just a cover ) while you have it removed you then can check all the other parts that you wouldnt normally see, ie turbo/ turbo boost actuator/vacuum pipes -they wear/ starter motor connections , what im saying is have a good look around underneath

as for offroad it is more than capable,all depends where you intend to go
and what tyres you have
in fact it is possibly the best allround 4x4 you will find:D :D
 
john t said:
glad to here you gonna do your own servicing,:) its all quite straight forward

dont mess about,,,, remove the whole undertray it takes 10 mins first time , you have to unbolt the ally front part aswell,(appears your removing part of the subframe, but its just a cover ) while you have it removed you then can check all the other parts that you wouldnt normally see, ie turbo/ turbo boost actuator/vacuum pipes -they wear/ starter motor connections , what im saying is have a good look around underneath

as for offroad it is more than capable,all depends where you intend to go
and what tyres you have
in fact it is possibly the best allround 4x4 you will find:D :D
Click to expand...

see the problem i had was, if i rember correctly, there was either 6 or 8 fittings, very similar looking to rivets, i couldnt get an alan key to fit, i think if they are alan screws they are rounded, and when i did get another tool into it the whole lot turned as you can get your hand up and onto the other side of the screw/bolt, so it was never going to come off, ive since heard that most people have fitted quick release fittings to the underpans, and this could well be what these are, im going to buy ramps when i get home so i can get under it properly and see what the score is, but your right, id much rather be able to see everything and make sure its all a-ok

cheers for the help dude
 
there are rivits holding the plastic shield to the the ally part, dont try removing these,remove the bolts at the front and rear and a few self tapping screws, once you have done it once you will realise what an easy job it is.

a usefull mod is mark out where the "ENGINE" oil drain plug is on the plastic cover and drill a 3" hole makes oil changes a bit quicker in the future , but i always like to have a good look at all the hidden bits , just for peace of mind
 
john t said:
there are rivits holding the plastic shield to the the ally part, dont try removing these,remove the bolts at the front and rear and a few self tapping screws, once you have done it once you will realise what an easy job it is.

a usefull mod is mark out where the "ENGINE" oil drain plug is on the plastic cover and drill a 3" hole makes oil changes a bit quicker in the future , but i always like to have a good look at all the hidden bits , just for peace of mind
Click to expand...


i thought that exactly when i was under it, im not a mechanic but i thought the alloy panel at the front of the underpan was an integral part of the frame and didnt want to mess about with it, but now i know ill get it apart, im with you, id much rather see as much as possible as often as possible, and for all it costs for the materials i think a oil & filter change every 5k miles maybe even less will be on the cards, are the fuel filter changes easy enough, and does anyone know of anything else i should be changing regular?
 
I fitted power box from rimmers on my td4 auto about 18months ago. Very pleased with results - more torque, gearbox doesnt hunt for higher / lower gears, improved economy (approx32mpg). Not had improvements measured or verified but feeling is that claims are about right. Other boxes mentioned might be just as good at half the price tho. Takes yer choice
 
i guess you make a choice on oil change intervals

i use fully synthetic at £8 a litre,i change oil every 12k miles, remember the
td4 is a refined BMW engine,

my last motor was a VW golf tdi , oil change intervals were well over 21k and as it was a lease car they wouldnt change the oil until the car onboard computer said it was due
 
john t said:
i guess you make a choice on oil change intervals

i use fully synthetic at £8 a litre,i change oil every 12k miles, remember the
td4 is a refined BMW engine,

my last motor was a VW golf tdi , oil change intervals were well over 21k and as it was a lease car they wouldnt change the oil until the car onboard computer said it was due
Click to expand...

tell me john as im no mechanic,

whats the difference between the 15/40 oil i bought from partco, and the synthetic stuff you buy, i would assume the expensive stuff is better for your engine, but how?
 
im sure 15/40 will be ok to some degree, but the engine manufacturer specifies synthetic, or part synthetic

remember it is expensive to replace a turbo when the bearings fail, synthetic oil gives you quite a few advantages for the extra cost, ie

1, synthetic oil can withstand higher tempreatures
2, as the oil is thiner it makes starting easier
3, basically it is more slippery= less engine friction= less heat=better fuel consumption
4, less frequent oil changes,as the oil can handle the contaminants better, and dosent wear out as quickly,

im sure there a a few more advantages,

personally i intend to keep my freelander for many years and as i do all my own servicing and repairs , i am prepared to pay the extra £ s

its your choice, but just think how hot a turbo bearing gets, the oil feeding the bearings has be be able to cope with very high temps and not cook and turn to sludge
 
john t said:
im sure 15/40 will be ok to some degree, but the engine manufacturer specifies synthetic, or part synthetic

remember it is expensive to replace a turbo when the bearings fail, synthetic oil gives you quite a few advantages for the extra cost, ie

1, synthetic oil can withstand higher tempreatures
2, as the oil is thiner it makes starting easier
3, basically it is more slippery= less engine friction= less heat=better fuel consumption
4, less frequent oil changes,as the oil can handle the contaminants better, and dosent wear out as quickly,

im sure there a a few more advantages,

personally i intend to keep my freelander for many years and as i do all my own servicing and repairs , i am prepared to pay the extra £ s

its your choice, but just think how hot a turbo bearing gets, the oil feeding the bearings has be be able to cope with very high temps and not cook and turn to sludge
Click to expand...

well see?

i never knew that, it says in the handbook that 10/40 or 15/40 is what it needs, but im with you, its better to spend a few quid more and preventitive maintainance then shell out for major work, im glad you mentioned that as ill be doing the oil as soon as i get off this damn rig, i think theyve forgotten about me :(
 
10/40 or 15/40 are you looking in td4 section ?:)

i will check later(3 years since i last looked ), but im not someone who likes to waste my money and as i remember at the time i thought heck this oil is expensive:mad:
 
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