glasgowkiss

glasgowkiss

Active Member
Hello again!
I've just had my beloved back from a long time stay in a LR specialist in Larbert, where it was getting refurbished axles, diffs, parabolic springs and of course the galvanised chassis, and new fuel tank. Bank Manager still not speaking to me but f*ck him.
My point is that I've put new plugs, points and condenser in, stripped and serviced and cleaned the weber carburettor yet the engine is still running rich, idling poorly and generally isn't a happy bunny.
I've tried all the obvious things. The only other simple solution I've not tried yet is: cleaning the oil bath air filter (I actually don't know how to do that properly) and check the timing.
I think I want to check the tappets, cylinder pressure and so on next maybe just to tick every box, BUT my fine fellows: is there something I'm missing that I should be doing? Cheers, Ken
 
Heah! Mine was at Larbert too for about a month. Got it back 2 weeks ago. Have you cleaned the idler jet at the back of the carb? It unsrews about thee turns. Give it a good blow and clean. The oil bath is peasy. You don't need to loosen the rubber pipe to the carb. Unsrew the retaining clip on the top. Then unclip the thee spring clips which are three inches above the base. Gently prise the top section up and rest in on the engine. You can now remove the bottom oil bath. You'll be able to tell if it's dirty. You'll see the crud in the oil at all the bottom. Get rid of the oil. Clean with petrol. Refill carefully to the mark inside. Take out the wire mesh filter from the top and rinse with a wee bit petrol. Reassemble. If it was low on oil or really dirty you'll notice a difference. You can download instructions to tune the carb online. Only one adjustment required on the throttle adjuster. You should screw it all the wat in and then unscrew one and a half turns to establish a baseline. It should idle around that setting but may need a tweak. Do the adjustment in half turns. Have you double checked the dizzy setting points gaps n stuff? Lambert is full of landys but seems to have more Disco's than other models. They did my bulkhead welding.
 
John S said:
Heah! Mine was at Larbert too for about a month. Got it back 2 weeks ago. Have you cleaned the idler jet at the back of the carb? It unsrews about thee turns. Give it a good blow and clean. The oil bath is peasy. You don't need to loosen the rubber pipe to the carb. Unsrew the retaining clip on the top. Then unclip the thee spring clips which are three inches above the base. Gently prise the top section up and rest in on the engine. You can now remove the bottom oil bath. You'll be able to tell if it's dirty. You'll see the crud in the oil at all the bottom. Get rid of the oil. Clean with petrol. Refill carefully to the mark inside. Take out the wire mesh filter from the top and rinse with a wee bit petrol. Reassemble. If it was low on oil or really dirty you'll notice a difference. You can download instructions to tune the carb online. Only one adjustment required on the throttle adjuster. You should screw it all the wat in and then unscrew one and a half turns to establish a baseline. It should idle around that setting but may need a tweak. Do the adjustment in half turns. Have you double checked the dizzy setting points gaps n stuff? Lambert is full of landys but seems to have more Disco's than other models. They did my bulkhead welding.
Click to expand...
Hi John. I've only just noticed that the bulkhead on Bessie is getting quite poorly. So are the door tops. Had a look online for new/galvanised bulkheads but holy ****, they come in at some price!! Thanks for the hints and tips here. My mate and I stripped the carb right down to the basic pieces, so maybe not the idler jet. It worked well for the first couple of runs, but it's running rough again, threatening to cut out at the lights (as if it's running on choke. I've got a new choke cable to fit but haven't done that yet, but I check manually in the engine that the choke is fully off. Would the oil bath really make a difference? I MUST look into this then.
 
plastic float!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
right then...........got a new weber 34ich over 18 months ago ,really happy with it until a few months ago ,started playing up ,conking out ,no hot start,no cold start ect....

the float is full of sponge,thats right ,whats really good at soaking up fluids,SPONGE

many peeps been caught out with this, in the end i called my mate round ,cos i was losing it

he sussed it,hairline crack where the brass arm goes in float

probably my fault for gripping float then bendind the tabs to adjust[should have used to long nose pliers on brass only

anyway ,new one cured it ,i also ran a bead of superglue round the weld line

steve
 
glasgowkiss said:
Hi John. I've only just noticed that the bulkhead on Bessie is getting quite poorly. So are the door tops. Had a look online for new/galvanised bulkheads but holy ****, they come in at some price!! Thanks for the hints and tips here. My mate and I stripped the carb right down to the basic pieces, so maybe not the idler jet. It worked well for the first couple of runs, but it's running rough again, threatening to cut out at the lights (as if it's running on choke. I've got a new choke cable to fit but haven't done that yet, but I check manually in the engine that the choke is fully off. Would the oil bath really make a difference? I MUST look into this then.
Click to expand...
Depending where the rot is you can do a lot of patching on a bulkhead. However if the rot gets above the level of the pedals it's done for. You can buy replacement footwells, side panel, door pillars, top cappings, mud shields etc. Go have a look at YRM Solutions website, lots of great bits. Britpart also supply all this stuff. Unless you have the tools nad are a dab hand at welding you will need to find someone to do it. Larbert are cheaper than Strathearn Engineering. If you are further west there must be others who could do it. Make sure it's a landy place especially if your getting door pillars done, can effect doors fitting and geometry of the bulkhead. It sounds more like a fuel problem than ignition. Good luck.
 
series2steve said:
plastic float!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
right then...........got a new weber 34ich over 18 months ago ,really happy with it until a few months ago ,started playing up ,conking out ,no hot start,no cold start ect....

the float is full of sponge,thats right ,whats really good at soaking up fluids,SPONGE

many peeps been caught out with this, in the end i called my mate round ,cos i was losing it

he sussed it,hairline crack where the brass arm goes in float

probably my fault for gripping float then bendind the tabs to adjust[should have used to long nose pliers on brass only

anyway ,new one cured it ,i also ran a bead of superglue round the weld line

steve
Click to expand...
Excellent idea. Thanks!!
 
Quick check of the oil bath being an issue would be to disconnect it and let the carb suck air without a filter (briefly) see how she runs.

I would check the timing on the dizzy.
 
series2steve said:
any luck bud?
Click to expand...
Hi Pathetic isn't it?!! It is ONLY this weekend that I have finally had time to dismantle the carburettor again. And it looks like the float is a bit 'leaky'. I'm trying to find a new one, but it's not showing on paddocks or craddocks. So the gluing option seems good. However I'm reading that some glues will melt in fuel. So what's the best type to use, or where can I find a new float for my weber carb?
 
The best option is to change the float. Have you had the spark plugs out to check the colour, should be a light tan colour if the mixture is right. It took me ages to get the right set up between the mixture screw and the throttle setting screw.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
The best option is to change the float. Have you had the spark plugs out to check the colour, should be a light tan colour if the mixture is right. It took me ages to get the right set up between the mixture screw and the throttle setting screw.

Col
Click to expand...
Hi. I'll try and get a new float, but I'm not having much luck on craddocks or paddocks. Thanks for your reply!!
 
re the oil bath : I had a problem with my newly-acquired 2 1/4 petrol, running very rich. The garage adjusted the carb for the mot. Then I noticed that the slots in the side of the top part of the filter housing were almost completely clogged with crud. That's where it sucks the air in. When I cleaned them all out, the car was running very lean. I don't know how they got so grotty, but it's worth checking.
 
As above watch the condensor, new ones are very poor, fit old one and see if it works.
 
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