I wasn't quite right, it's a problem with the pressure not being bled off from the first clutch pack after a gear has been selected. So, if you do want to rev it, the recommendation is to switch off the engine for 60 seconds then it's safe to rev to 2000rpm for up to 90 seconds providing no gear has been selected.
Applies to park and neutral.
the rr box has no brake bands only clutch packs which generally have a lot of clearance unless plates are warpingPark and neutral are the same condition, only the park pin is engaged in park on the output shaft.
I seem to remember that it's something to do with lack of clearance to the brake bands when they're not controlled and they can grab and strip the lining, I may be totally wrong on that though.
I do know that they aren't supposed to be reved much in park or neutral though.
unless t/box is in neutral out put is locked in neutral tooInteresting. I can see Park being an issue because, as you say, the output shaft is locked. However, in neutral everything should (?) be free to spin freely. However, if the first clutch pack is effectively still turning then you can see that heating up pretty quick.
unless t/box is in neutral out put is locked in neutral too
Mthe rr box has no brake bands only clutch packs which generally have a lot of clearance unless plates are warping
OK, on advice from above (not the previous post, but a LR god) I replaced the MAF sensor at a cost of 135 quid....aaaaaaannnnnnd.... Still the same, although not quite as bad. So, is it a learning thing or should I do the leads as well (even though only 8k on them and no obvious blue sparks)?
Or could the coils be failing
Lambdas? Or did someone already suggest that?