Rhode rover

Active Member
Hello all,
The better weather seems like it's on the way so it looks like I'm going to attempt so needed projects. My chassis needs attention and what ever repair I'm making will be done in place, meaning dissembling only as needed. Rather to make a repair than total replacement if possible.
I've watched enough videos cutting, shaping ,welding , finishing so forth and so on to make me think that I'm capable (such a fool).
My question is the metal to use. Is it Cold rolled or Hot rolled in a 3mm thickness(1/8"). Think there's a galvanized too available but working the metaI l think defeat the galvanized finish.
Let me know what you think...thanks.
 
3mm will be way to thick though easier to weld, 2mm will do the job nicely, you just want plain old 2mm steel sheet offcuts, how it ended up at 2mm does not make any difference to what you need it for, harder to cut out rust and plate the hole flush but does look 100 times better.
If you dont have any steel/workshop places near to you ebay/craigslist will do random offcuts.
 
Probably cold rolled, likely the most available. Strength wise not much in it for what you need, but cold has a smoother surface finish. 3mm is what I use for chassis.
 
Not being a welder, yet, why would 3mm be easier than 2mm? Heat distortion of the thinner metal?
There's a metal store almost right in the neighborhood so obtaining what I need shouldn't be a problem.
 
Not being a welder, yet, why would 3mm be easier than 2mm? Heat distortion of the thinner metal?
There's a metal store almost right in the neighborhood so obtaining what I need shouldn't be a problem.
The thinner the metal the harder it can be to weld, downside is the thicker it is the harder it is to form shapes.
If you do not own a welder yet do some research first.
 
Has anyone used Corten steel sheet for its corrosion resistance as used in the Angel of the North
Seen chassis suppliers use 3mm for HD chassis
 
Thanks Lynall, the moisture and rust issue never acured to me. Before I dig it and take a look is there any other area that might have a rusty surprise waiting for me that I'll have to address it before using the welder?
 
Thanks Lynall, the moisture and rust issue never acured to me. Before I dig it and take a look is there any other area that might have a rusty surprise waiting for me that I'll have to address it before using the welder?
Pull the trigger and away you go, Parweld seem to make decent consumables and Super6 wire seems okay, though I am sure any wire will do the job just fine.
I did find the wire feed rollers on the works welder had gone rusty the other week, I did strip and clean them, but would imagine they would clean themselves during use.
 
Thanks Lynall, the moisture and rust issue never acured to me. Before I dig it and take a look is there any other area that might have a rusty surprise waiting for me that I'll have to address it before using the welder?
The wire can corrode itself to the nozzle if left for a long time. Easy fix - cut the wire near the drum, unscrew the nozzle and pull the wire through. Put a new nozzle on.
 
All the advice has been helpful. The pass few days the weather has been good and I spent a fair amount of time evaluating my project. It looks like it worst than I thought. The more you look ...reality becomes clearer. Most of the chassis has had a hack repair done at some point and the rest is rusted or missing. My plan for making a proper repair without a total disassemble to get to the rotting area is pretty much gone.
So, with that said it's time for a few short rides , clean a working space in the garage and start.
 

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