Myblackt5 said:
I just contacted an auto specialist near me that does mega flush for Land rovers etc. They specialise in Land rovers. Spoke with them in the phone. My car is a 2003 4.4 v8 petrol with the BMW engine and box. The bloke told me they would use dexron 2 on my car because it was the older model. I asked if it was the Lt71141. And he just blustered and said it didn't need that, just Dexron 2.
I need a flush doing but he didn't inspire confidence, unless of course he is correct. Anybody have a view on this?
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Same as others on here, it is a doddle to service gearbox, will be on my third in 1k miles.... Ist because I didn't really trust seller had done it, 2nd because I need to change out a solenoid and 3rd for the hell of it! My local factors seem to be able to get the right fluids for £36=7litres. I use a garden sprayer for final top up and clear hose from engine compartment for the first 4.5 litres. Invest in a temp gun and new gearbox sump bolts as the hex bolts get crusty. First thing! Make sure you can remove the gearbox filler cap. Read a lot about people who have drained their boxes to then round off the filler cap! I need to get a new plug as someone had previously mullered it, probably trying to use a large hex instead of an Allen head? Loads of sump plugs for sale but can't find filler plug? You will need two sets of ramps and a tape measure to get the distances right, set suspension to high. Take a good book under there as it takes ages undoing the sump bolts and you don't want to rush it.
 
There seem to be varying opinions as to whether flushing a slush-box is a good idea as opposed to just changing the oil & renewing the filter. There is a theory that flushing can disturb particles that are happy hiding in nook/crannies.
I'm in the same position with my daily driver, a 1998 E39 now with 148k on the clock & FSH, but I've no idea whether the fluid has been changed in the past. BMW state 'sealed for life' (which defies logic) whereas ZF recommend fluid changes every 50k or so.
The 'box (5hp19) functions perfectly so I'm going to have a fluid / filter change done next week & keep my fingers crossed ;)
 
norseman said:
There seem to be varying opinions as to whether flushing a slush-box is a good idea as opposed to just changing the oil & renewing the filter. There is a theory that flushing can disturb particles that are happy hiding in nook/crannies.
I'm in the same position with my daily driver, a 1998 E39 now with 148k on the clock & FSH, but I've no idea whether the fluid has been changed in the past. BMW state 'sealed for life' (which defies logic) whereas ZF recommend fluid changes every 50k or so.
The 'box (5hp19) functions perfectly so I'm going to have a fluid / filter change done next week & keep my fingers crossed ;)
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I think they see a "life" of 120k miles or 12 years. After that you're on your own. 50k sounds more sensible. 100k probably pushing it.
 
Myblackt5 said:
Ive ordered the oil, which has now arrived. Just waiting on the other bits
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As norseman indicated, changing the fluid can cause debris to detach in the clean fluid and make itself known. Plus you'll only get about 80% of fluid removed without flushing. That's why people tend to give it a few thousand miles and then flush again. By that time 90% or so will be new.
 
That change the fluid, run I'd a few hundred miles then change the fluid and filter approach does appeal, especially today when its tipping it down
 
jimmacD said:
Worth doing the diffs and transfer box whilst your down there?
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I also changed my cooler at the same time, it can be a pain as the clips become brittle and break! I was doing a full stage 0 service so oil cooler isn't a must just helps as a ground zero for service records etc.. I love my 4.4 L322 and find its as easy to work on as any other older vehicle, they are expensive to run when you head for the stealers each time there is a problem, preventative maintenance pays dividends..... next on the list is air compressor rebuild and some stainless brake lines.
I will also be cleaning out the PCV system which seems to be overlooked by most? Still waiting to hear back if the UK models have a PCV, Grrrrrr?
 
jimmacD said:
I also changed my cooler at the same time, it can be a pain as the clips become brittle and break! I was doing a full stage 0 service so oil cooler isn't a must just helps as a ground zero for service records etc.. I love my 4.4 L322 and find its as easy to work on as any other older vehicle, they are expensive to run when you head for the stealers each time there is a problem, preventative maintenance pays dividends..... next on the list is air compressor rebuild and some stainless brake lines.
I will also be cleaning out the PCV system which seems to be overlooked by most? Still waiting to hear back if the UK models have a PCV, Grrrrrr?
Click to expand...

L322 is beyond my ken. Way too young. @Saint.V8 or @holidaychicken have played with them.
 
jimmacD said:
I also changed my cooler at the same time, it can be a pain as the clips become brittle and break! I was doing a full stage 0 service so oil cooler isn't a must just helps as a ground zero for service records etc.. I love my 4.4 L322 and find its as easy to work on as any other older vehicle, they are expensive to run when you head for the stealers each time there is a problem, preventative maintenance pays dividends..... next on the list is air compressor rebuild and some stainless brake lines.
I will also be cleaning out the PCV system which seems to be overlooked by most? Still waiting to hear back if the UK models have a PCV, Grrrrrr?
Click to expand...
Cupro Nickel is better for brake lines IMO than Stainless which is hard to work with. As the name suggests, Stainless is just that, it stains or corrodes less, it still suffers corrosion.
 
Datatek said:
Cupro Nickel is better for brake lines IMO than Stainless which is hard to work with. As the name suggests, Stainless is just that, it stains or corrodes less, it still suffers corrosion.
Click to expand...
Cheers, will check out alternative.
 
Changed it, those instructions were perfect, a step by step guide with pictures even I can follow.
But, took the beast for a drive and I'm still getting a shudder but its causing the steering wheel to wobble from left to right as though the wheels are out of balance. Does a bad shudder cause the steering to be affected?
 
It's fine at slow speeds around town, 30 mph but 45 and above it wobbles though out of balance, stops on hard acceleration
 
There was a recall for front diff

images
 
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