L

lynall

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Naturally Ive been dragged into servicing it.
As shes 120 miles away I would like if possible to know the following
1, what oil does it take (viscocity and acea number) and how much?
2, what size socket for the oil filter cap?
3, oil filter part number or are they all the same?
and er thats it, unless theres any other tricks I need to know?

As usual she has provided me with oodles of info which is, its a 2003 td4 and thats it!

Im actually fascinated shes bought one as for the last 20 odd years she has run nothing but nissan micras:D
 
Quite a change from the Nissan!

I’m sure the Td4 chaps wil. E along shortly to help out - but that all sounds pretty straightforward. :)
 
Hi Lynall.
If it is just the usual quick service then you will need these below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...898705?hash=item1c34dbb6d1:g:GGkAAOSwuTxV-9AE

This one if you want to fit the votex PCV filter instead of the above blue PCV filter.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...865143?hash=item461aa708f7:g:wTQAAOSwHjNWBVPc

You can also change the fuel filter & pump if you wanted, personally I would just go for the fuel filter if the car is running ok, as the best fuel pumps are Pierburg they are expensive £129 there about.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...778428?hash=item46179b837c:g:Z50AAOxyNo9SrDGA

Fuel filter. you can get cheaper ones
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-...232569985866?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

Cheaper but should ok from this seller.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...645?fits=Car+Make:Land+Rover|Model:Freelander

Oil you will need 10/40 Semi Synthetic you will need 6.4ltrs
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4...gine-oil/10w40-engine-oil/?521776011&&cc5_245

Socket for oil filter cap is 36mm shallow socket.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-Prof...Fits-BMW-Ford-Opel-Sealey-Sx114/401445570476?
epid=21017015950&hash=item5d780547ac:g:LcgAAOSwDkVaEwCx


You could also get all the above from Euro Car parts but it maybe work out a little more expensive ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-S...015950&hash=item36263bf0fa:g:LcgAAOSwDkVaEwCx

https://www.eurocarparts.com/car-parts
 
Before you do the service, check its got 4 matching tyres make/model and all pumped the the same PSI. Then do a 1 wheel up test on the VCU - you'll need a 32mm socket, a 1.2M pole for the ratchet and a 5kg weight....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

Then do the service :)

As you may imagine, there are 100s of threads saying what oil to put in a TD4, a search brings them up, eg...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/oil.322311/

Is it auto or manual?
 
Engine oil I use is 5w40 full synthetic. Most are suitable for petrol engine diesel engines these days.

Oil filter cap is a 36 hex, so don't use a bi-hex socket.

Change the crankcase filter while you are changing the oil. 5mm Allen key is needed.

Use quality air oil and air filters. I use this kit.https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/k...-filter-kit-freelander-1-20-td4-1145886-p.asp

Also check it has 4 identical tyres with the least worn on the rear and do the One Wheel Up Test to check the VCU. ;)
 
Oh, and if the car has matching tyres, but 2 are newer (more tread), make sure they are on the back axle.

You might like to change the oil in the IRD and rear diff to - make sure the old oil is black not grey! If its grey, or the tyres don't match and aren't going to be replaced, or the VCU is stuffed and not going to be replaced, consider removing the props. If everything is in order, it will be very reliable, but if it has any of these issues, it will bite your mum's bum with maximum aggression.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I think I will go for the slightly more expensive service kit listed by Arctic2 and get busy on ebay for some oil.
Im sure like every Landrover I have ever owned I will end up with a snag list to sort out!
Will also do the VCU test.

Apparently the car did 50 miles last year.
 
freelance said:
I think I would be adding a fuel additive, to freshen the tank !
Click to expand...


See this is going to be my main issue my mum is frugal with her money, so frugel she will do everything herself and I mean everything, drains blocked, no worries dig a few four feet deep holes in the gardedn until she found the collapsed pipe, repaired it and filled it all back in, she has just finished fitting her new kitchen, so trying to convince her to spend money on the car will be hard, so my easiest path is to buy the stuff myself and call it a gift, then we are all happy!
 
Well just serviced the thing, got to say not bad for a 15 year old car, very little surface rust, whereas my D3 chassis is covered in surface rust.
Done 1500 miles since last mot in August, had new track rod end for the mot, sadly they had forgotien to fit the M8 pinch bolt so shes been driving it around with a variable adjustment tracking! so if anyone here gets there car motd or serviced in Dereham beware!
Getting the undertray off was a major hassle, the bolts have not been out for years (I even snapped a socket) so its either had the oil sucked out or just not had it changed at all, a major faff, if it was mine there would be a 3 inch hole cut in the cover pdq.
The oil filter was badly sucked in so was ancient
The pcv filter was solid

I have zero patience so got mum to change the pollen filter she emerged a few minutes later with dust all over her face and arm:D

Apart from the above I couldnt really find much wrong with it, even the a/c worked not very well but it worked

Pic of oil filter, I didnt twist it this is how it came out

Screen Shot 2018-05-05 at 09.03.59.png


Pic of pollen filter

Screen Shot 2018-05-05 at 09.04.09.png
 
Ps I forgot to say thanks for the advice and Arctic32 for the ebay links, i used the cheaper of the two service kits, again knowing mum she may not keep it and as I was paying for the parts cheap it was!
 
GrumpyGel said:
Before you do the service, check its got 4 matching tyres make/model and all pumped the the same PSI. Then do a 1 wheel up test on the VCU - you'll need a 32mm socket, a 1.2M pole for the ratchet and a 5kg weight....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

Then do the service :)

As you may imagine, there are 100s of threads saying what oil to put in a TD4, a search brings them up, eg...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/oil.322311/

Is it auto or manual?
Click to expand...

Didnt have time to do the vcu test but all tyres are identical with even wear, so fingers crossed on the VCU.
 
lynall said:
Didnt have time to do the vcu test but all tyres are identical with even wear, so fingers crossed on the VCU.
Click to expand...
So long as she doesn't go round any corners, she should be fine :eek:

It is something that should be tested at some point.

The under tray can be a right PITA at the best of times. I always seem to be taking it off and putting it back on (sometimes after many weeks of must get round to it) and its a job I hate.
 
GrumpyGel said:
So long as she doesn't go round any corners, she should be fine :eek:

It is something that should be tested at some point.

The under tray can be a right PITA at the best of times. I always seem to be taking it off and putting it back on (sometimes after many weeks of must get round to it) and its a job I hate.
Click to expand...


It was a pain with way to many bolts, but the real pain was all the bolts were seized or nearly seized, some lazy bar steward had not greased them last time it was off.
 
lynall said:
It was a pain with way to many bolts, but the real pain was all the bolts were seized or nearly seized, some lazy bar steward had not greased them last time it was off.
Click to expand...
Don't need grease on mine - there's always enough oil splattered around the engine :)

What really irritates me, after the balancing act that uses every bloody knee and elbow I have, is that its impossible to get a ratchet on most of the bolts. The tray itself, and the oil filter (L Series) and valance all foul the ratchet for different bolts meaning a spanner has to be used turning the overly long bolts 1/6th of a turn a time ... grrrrr.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Don't need grease on mine - there's always enough oil splattered around the engine :)

What really irritates me, after the balancing act that uses every bloody knee and elbow I have, is that its impossible to get a ratchet on most of the bolts. The tray itself, and the oil filter (L Series) and valance all foul the ratchet for different bolts meaning a spanner has to be used turning the overly long bolts 1/6th of a turn a time ... grrrrr.
Click to expand...


There was plenty of oil splattered around, sadly none on the undertray bolts, I did use a ratchet on all the bolts, the two under the front valance were real fun to get at! Im sure like most things with practice it becomes easier.

I can have the undertray off of my D3 in a couple of minutes with hand tools and 30 seconds woth the cordless gun as all bolts are easy to get to and of course greased.
The D3 pollen filter is so easy its 30 seconds work to remove and replace it tops.

As for getting the air filter cap back on:mad:

Still she was happy and thats the main thing.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Don't need grease on mine - there's always enough oil splattered around the engine :)

What really irritates me, after the balancing act that uses every bloody knee and elbow I have, is that its impossible to get a ratchet on most of the bolts. The tray itself, and the oil filter (L Series) and valance all foul the ratchet for different bolts meaning a spanner has to be used turning the overly long bolts 1/6th of a turn a time ... grrrrr.
Click to expand...

Can't the careful use of extensions sort that ?
 
Dippypud said:
Can't the careful use of extensions sort that ?
Click to expand...
No, its the reverse, shorter sockets might help. This is a pic Mr Google found for me...

Undertray_1.JPG


There's 4 bolts along the front (metal end). The 2 inner ones have lips poking out above them with plastic inserts for screws to fix to holding the bottom of the front valence/bumper. The 2 outer ones would be fine, but the A Bar has brackets going through the bumper/valence and fix to those bolts as well - its impossible to line the tray and bracket up to get the bolts in, I've taken to just pushing the brackets to the side so they aren't fixed by the bolts - but at least a socket can be used on these.

There's 2 bolts each side on those 'wings' that secure to the subframe. Once again, they can be a right pain to line up and the socket fouls on the plastic. To remove the bolts, the socket goes on fine, undo the bolt and then the bloody rachet is stuck on the wrong side of the plastic an you can't get the socket and bolt out. Of course, putting the bolts on, they have to be done up a fair bit before the socket will get over it. I suppose a bit of trimming of the plastic would help here. Unfortunately trimming the plastic won't help with 1 of the bolts on the left (as you look at it) cos the oil filter is in the way.

The 2 little bolts on the back are actually a breeze to get on and off with a socket.

All freeking that just to remove and then install the undertray.
 
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