Mark Piercy said:
https://www.google.fr/amp/s/www.aut...-of-a-bad-or-failing-canister-purge-solenoid/
Is this any help doo?
Click to expand...

I certainly don't have the symptoms described there. But the pressure really builds in the fuel tank to the extent it blows out of the cap for a good few seconds and you can really feel it.

Plus the code reader stating high load so I'm guessing the two are connected. I wonder if it's made worse by switching to LPG so the petrol circulates around the system, getting hot and for some reason it's not venting...

What do I look for, as in canister? There's a black thingy under the floor ahead of the air tank that looks like it might be the culprit. Can I clean it?

We're hoping to get below her on Friday to undo the down-pipes & change the gaskets & fix the exhaust blow. We can have a look then.
 
It does sound a lot like building pressure? Maybe a crimped or blocked pipe from the tank to the canister or even the canister itself or forward from it?
 
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Mark Piercy said:
It does sound a lot like building pressure? Maybe a crimped or blocked pipe from the tank to the canister or even the canister itself or forward from it?
Click to expand...

Can't see why it would be crimped, but it's possible... It's either the valve electrics or it's not getting a signal to switch!!
 
If its maybe the original canister and electrical valve, could just simply have failed.. hopefully that's the case for you?o_O
 
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Mark Piercy said:
Does it help any doo?
Click to expand...

Indeed it does, Hyundai Sonata (and no doubt all the other Hyundai petrol's, Kia's and all manner of copied Japanese motors) purge valve is apparently the same. However, I can't see them being hard to find around here. Plenty scrap yards to choose from. Thanks Mark :)

Meant to say though, mines not in the same place as that engine! o_O Not sure where it is, but not there..
 
Doo said:
Starts & runs on petrol, drives ok. Once warm & switched to LPG, it runs fine, but when you demand a little juice it feels hesitant as if there's no fuel! Sometimes it even cuts out, like when I was going onto the roundabout the engine died :eek: It started immediately on petrol and ran fine until it switched and although it didn't cut out again, it was still hesitant.

I put my code reader on and it showed MAF so I binned it and it came back.
Click to expand...
that suggests lack of enough gas
 
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jamesmartin said:
that suggests lack of enough gas
Click to expand...

It does, but it seems to flow ok. I'm drawn to the O2 sensors as it's low on power when lower revs. Foot down and she's off, no hesitation after the revs go above 3000rpm. I'll fix the tiny blow (it literally is a pin hole blow) at the joint, but it's before the O2 sensor so it's possibly creating a problem with the reading.
 
I am sure I have asked this in an earlier post - what make is your LPG??
 
Saint.V8 said:
I am sure I have asked this in an earlier post - what make is your LPG??
Click to expand...

And I replied not a clue...:p

Hang on, I'll look at the paperwork.

It would appear to be SGI system by Nicholson McLaren Engines (NME) and totally cunted up bodywork courtesy of a shower of arseholes in Stirling who go by the name of Maxwell Conversions :mad::mad::mad::mad: They are the clowns who hacked (and I "mean" hacked!) holes in the floor under the back seat.
 
Doo said:
And I replied not a clue...:p

Hang on, I'll look at the paperwork.

It would appear to be SGI system by Nicholson McLaren Engines (NME) and totally cunted up bodywork courtesy of a shower of arseholes in Stirling who go by the name of Maxwell Conversions :mad::mad::mad::mad: They are the clowns who hacked (and I "mean" hacked!) holes in the floor under the back seat.
Click to expand...
I have never heard of them doing LPG before - they are an Aero company.....

Odd - I wonder if it is another manufacturers kit badged up or installed by A N Other.....Shame as I have several LPG interface cable....
 
Been looking through LPG stuff on Google (Google truly is your friend :)) and stumbled upon an old post from LZ back in 2010.

Someone suggested fuel trims need reset.

Excellent!

Um, how??:confused:

I was looking at fuel trim on the live data today and although things were doing stuff, I wasn't 100% "what" it was the "things" were doing?! But I do recall watching L&R values constantly changing. It may have been the O2 sensor reading but something was 0.9 Left and 1.2 Right, then they would equalise, then swap to 1.2 Left and 0.9 Right (for example) so something seemed to be constantly trying to correct itself (this was on petrol BTW).

So while my mates code reader "can" change stuff, I have no idea what to do....
 
Oh dear, I'm such a thicko, but not scared to admit it.... I "may" have to admit not knowing that I need to empty the vapouriser! :oops::rolleyes:

I imagine it fills with condensate or some such so I will check it out and see if that is causing my issues. I also found I have a tiny leak from the pipes going to/from the vapouriser which may drip onto a couple of plug leads which would also cause a miss on petrol...

It's all looking slightly sunnier.

Just got to fix the ABS sensor issue which will hopefully sort out my CC and ABS/TC issue o_O
 
I've never heard of having to empty the vapouriser tbh. There are liquid filters and also gas filters but these just filter. The coolant flows around vapouriser the lpg. Sometimes they have a vacuum nipple to increase flow under load. The membranes do regularly breakdown though
 
johnnyb70 said:
I've never heard of having to empty the vapouriser tbh. There are liquid filters and also gas filters but these just filter. The coolant flows around vapouriser the lpg. Sometimes they have a vacuum nipple to increase flow under load. The membranes do regularly breakdown though
Click to expand...

I recently serviced it all. I can't think what else is wrong. I've contacted Tinley Tech to see if Mick has any idea's....
 
I hate this car!

Seriously, it's like a Tory minister, it couldn't tell the truth to save itself! o_O

So, after deleting fault codes, it drives fine. WTF? I'm still getting a slight misfire upon initial acceleration, but it's stopped cutting out above 1000rpm o_O

Today, my mate Ian replaced the downpipe to manifold gaskets, both sides. Then we deleted the middle box (cut it out & put in a straight through pipe) which made her a bit punchier in middle revs... Nice burble from her too :cool:

I also found the reason for the cruise not working... The damn cancel switch had fallen out :eek:

Little bit of super glue saw to that.

Cruise works beautifully again. First time in a year or so :)

So now I need to fix the FR ABS sensor.

They all read 2.33 but the front right reads 2.31 on a static system check.

My question is, the fact the light goes out while trundling forward, it immediately flags up a fault when reversing at over 6mph.

Now I know the light stays on until you reach this speed forwards, but not backwards. So is there a possibility that the sensor is slightly pushed out so not reading correctly throwing up this fault?

Like I said, it shows TC & ABS but goes out when you stop reversing, switch off, back on and roll forwards. AND the CC is working...:confused:
 
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