Hi all,

I'm having fits here with the input seal of my old LT230T (mated to an LT77), an old 20D model (built around '87). Here's the condensed tale so far (insert your own swearing):

I was losing transfer case fluid between the transmission and transfer case. So I pulled things apart and replaced the intermediate shaft o-rings, the LT230T input seal, the oil seal collar on the LT77, and the LT77 output seal. I installed the input seal flush with the surface of the case. This sealed up wonderfully for about 200 miles then started leaking worse than ever.

Pulled things apart again, and the LT230T input seal had shifted so that the bottom portion stuck out a bit. So, since there's no stop when pounding in the input seal (the seal can be pushed into the case - why is that?), and the seal rode on the front of the oil seal collar, I thought I'd be clever and push in the seal an extra 3/16" or so, maybe 4 mm from the lip of the case. Note that in both cases, I coated the outside of the seal with RTV.

Put things back together and I'm still leaking fluid. Not nearly as bad as when the seal slipped, but not much better than before I started, i.e. nothing I'd want to drive across country with. So is the seal pushed back too far or is it just not square? Or have I mucked up something else?

The service manual references 18G1422 to install the seal, but that's not something I have access to.

Thanks in advance.

locktite seal outer and fit flush ,pack inside with petroleum jelly or grease to hold in garter spring seal will have moved during fitting its easy to knock ,check you have 2 x dowels between units, the seal tool you mention only ensures they fit flush and square and is easy replaced with suitable dolly even round disc of plywood cut bigger than hole ,how did you fit seal collar they damage easy

I coated the outer portion of the seal with RTV and let it set a couple of days in Texas heat. It's in there pretty good now.

Next time, I will pack the inside with grease or petroleum jelly to hold the garter spring in place. Good thought on that.

I placed studs in some of the holes to align the transmission and transfer case. This should have kept the cases aligned while they were close enough to damage the seal. I can look into using some longer dowels.

I fit the seal collar with a piece of duct tape covered pipe along with a bolt & washer on the end of the transmission shaft to press the new collar on. I may have also pressed up against the new collar with the old collar. At no point did I pound or let the pipe dig into the new collar.

George at Rovers Down South here in the US also suggested I remove the input gearing via the access plat opposite the input shaft. I may do that and see if it's something as simple as the garter spring, or if it can be fixed in place.

Thanks!