A

aceeng

New Member
I have a 2008 LR3 tdv6, it overheated to the point where it shut down while driving, it had melted one of the pistons, i replaced the complete engine and now when i go to start up it wont crank and the temperature gauge goes straight to hot and i get an engine management fault on the dash.

Please help
 
aceeng said:
I have a 2008 LR3 tdv6, it overheated to the point where it shut down while driving, it had melted one of the pistons, i replaced the complete engine and now when i go to start up it wont crank and the temperature gauge goes straight to hot and i get an engine management fault on the dash.

Please help
Click to expand...

What does the fault code come up as for the engine management light?

The car electrics won't like the new engine so are probably rejecting it :eek:
 
electrickery...
Engines are paired to the ECU/immobiliser etc.
You need a full set of diagnostics to pair them up so they will work.

Otherwise the ECU just looks at the engine, sees it doesnt match and goes, me no likey, heres a lighty...

sorry, its been a long day.
 
more to the point, how on earth do you get to melt a piston without noticing, dont these thing bing,bong, and flash lights at you as well as having a temp gauge? and surely you'd have smelt somthing as well??
 
timtheenchanteruk said:
more to the point, how on earth do you get to melt a piston without noticing, dont these thing bing,bong, and flash lights at you as well as having a temp gauge? and surely you'd have smelt somthing as well??
Click to expand...

+1
Was asking myself the exact same thing.
Unless you were in danger of some sort that dictated that you had to keep going, surely you couldn't possibly have missed all the signs and stopped in good time to avoid frying the engine like you have.
Anyway gents, could you very kindly enlighten me on how the car's electronic systems would reject the engine which is effectively just a piece of hardware.
I would have assumed that having swapped the wrecked engine with another one just like it, the controllers would be none the wiser.
What is it exactly within the lump that the electronic controllers look out for as a unique identifier for each engine.
Would just like to know so I'm prepared if I ever happen to have to do same.
 
not 100% on the disco engines, but many engines the injectors are coded, and need pairing to the ECU,
Have heard it may times after engine swaps on other cars, alot of folk try and change the ECU at the same time.
Theres so many sensors, chips and electronic bits on these engines.
 
some of the mondeo engines had a tendancy at one point to "forget" the injector codes, and would then just refuse to run (or it would forget one or more and run on 2/3)
 
I was thinking the ECU had shut down the engine and now is preventing the start
Does the tdv6 have a fail safe mode to prevent me from starting?
I have switched engines before and never had an issue with having to reprogram
 
Hello Tim,, thanks for your help
right now i am getting crank switch fault, and them temperature gauge goes straight to hot.
 
Check the engine earth. If the temp gauge goes up as you turn the key it is probably earthing through that.
 
You need to be able to read the fault codes in the car not just the PCM. Your new engine should start there isn't anything on it that must be coded or synchronized before it will start (you still need to put the injector codes in the PCM but it won't stop it starting)
So read your vehicle DTC's and look for security faults, CAN bus faults or any lost comms faults. Check your low side fuel pressure (0.5 bar) at the schrader at the back of the engine.
But it could be many things so get the DTC's for the whole vehicle and work through them. Clear them all first and try and start it then see what has come back.
 
Hey OWL i am getting a whole list of faults the problem is it wont let me clear any,

Steve D where are the engine earth
 
I don't know where it is on that model but to check if that's the problem try putting a jump lead from battery earth to a solid part of the engine and trying it. If it works ok you know it is an earth fault.
 
aceeng said:
Hey OWL i am getting a whole list of faults the problem is it wont let me clear any,

Steve D where are the engine earth
Click to expand...

What is on your list, you mentioned crank signal, just go with that and work through the wiring diag and find out why that don't work. or if you have an AFM fault work through that, check power, earth and signal etc. if you have lost comms with an ecu do a network integrity test to see if it is online, if it isn't again check power and ground, then check the integrity of the can bus 2.7 volts on the high and 2.3 volts on the low. take it a step at a time and you will get there.
 
Hi guys

just thought i would let you know i finally found the problem with the engine, turns out the ground wire under the LH wheel arch was not tightened.
 
See pick one of the stored faults and work through checking power and earth first, simple :D
 
good read, but an old time fault.
car electrics sometimes fool you into thinking strange things are going on, but genraly its just a bad or non existant earth, so some electrical law says, lets run earth back through the nearest resistance....


a bit like morris 1000 rear lights and indicators = 3 functions from just one 2 filiment bulb..
all to doo with the earth....
car electrics are more complicated than i now know, but i still know it works on feed and earth = a big circle
 
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