searover said:
I didnt fit a new relay.. just swapped the engine relay for it. now I have a new relay, came w. compressor. I'll fit it. dont see the point tho.

The 3 levels: so yesterday, I did cycle it thru the 3 levels, and it achieved the 3 levels OK, all lights going out. But at normal level sometimes the compressor was cycling almost at 50%, or sometimes even more.

Overnight.. w. fuse out. it did drop a bit. sorry I dont have exact measurements, stupid.. just forgot, I'll guess 1".

This morning, I put the fuse back in.. and put it into offroad height. no problem, and pretty sure the compressor went off. But then I couldnt lower it to 'normal', I get suspension fault, the indicator picture of the car is red (for the first time), and '30mph max' warning appears.
sounds like a sensor or some unloader valve.. what do you think abt my next steps?
TIA.
coffee break .
Click to expand...

hi

first thing , fit the new relay that came with the compressor

it sounds also that it's not getting the correct signal to turn off

there are 3 x connectors hidden behind the front passenger side wheel arch

renowned for loose connections there

think that's the next port of call, to carefully check them ,to ensure there sound and sending the correct signal to the pressure switch fitted on the reservoir valve

we can then go from there

with faults like this , it's easier getting a decent diagnostic machine, like the iid
 
so its still stuck in offroad height.. the code is.. C1A13..
'Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery' .. duuuh really?
compressor is not running..
which valve is a likely culprit? or a connection?

I kinda think a valve.. a faulty valve would explain both cycling at normal height and not releasing at max height.. what do you think?
 
searover said:
so its still stuck in offroad height.. the code is.. C1A13..
'Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery' .. duuuh really?
compressor is not running..
which valve is a likely culprit? or a connection?

I kinda think a valve.. a faulty valve would explain both cycling at normal height and not releasing at max height.. what do you think?
Click to expand...

that fault is where the exhaust is unable to vent

when u turn the engine off, do u ever hear a hiss

start off with

removing the two pipes that go into the dryer , this will remove the inlet air filter and exhaust silencer

the compressor first goes into the reservoir valve, sometimes they get filled with white silca from the compressors dryer silica beads

think that's the first port of call

something is not allowing it to vent , so removing those two pipes we can eliminate the first bits

we can then after that slowly go through the system

we may have an electrical wire problem

but lets start off with the above ,

unfortunately , have to go through the system in stages and step by step

can be a long one , need to eliminate certain parts

next steps

have u fitted the relay that came with the compressor

do u hear any hiss when the engine is turned off

remove the two pipes that go into the dryer ,

will wait to hear from u before we go any further
 
alright... freaking flaky, hate it.. but things moved a bit:

after sitting at offroad height for few hours, I was able to command it to lower to normal height.
corner heights stable at < +/- 5mm , gallery press was 1770kPa (257psi.. abt right), but then slowly bled down to 1k, 500, down to 102kPa, thats abt 15Psi!! The corner height showed same .. So it stayed there at 102Kpa, then I raised it OK. then I lowered to normal.
Now it cycled 1750 down to 500, and up to 1770...

will repeat experiment after dinner.. now sitting connected to scanner, engine not running.. will see.
Seems like weird press sensor measmnt
 
searover said:
alright... freaking flaky, hate it.. but things moved a bit:

after sitting at offroad height for few hours, I was able to command it to lower to normal height.
corner heights stable at < +/- 5mm , gallery press was 1770kPa (257psi.. abt right), but then slowly bled down to 1k, 500, down to 102kPa, thats abt 15Psi!! The corner height showed same .. So it stayed there at 102Kpa, then I raised it OK. then I lowered to normal.
Now it cycled 1750 down to 500, and up to 1770...

will repeat experiment after dinner.. now sitting connected to scanner, engine not running.. will see.
Seems like weird press sensor measmnt
Click to expand...

please let me know how u get on

i learnt a lot when i rebuilt my suspension, so will wait and see what u report back

will help u all i can
 
ok.. today toook it to work, thats 40mi one way. The normal height seems good. The compressor cycled when I first started it, but it doesnt run, nor do I see or hear any deflation. BUT.. the susp warning messg/light came on yellow, special programs disabled, almost right away. AAAND.. 2 times, when I was accelerating after a stop into the left turn, susp fault/35mph max/red light came on.. and then cleared. Rear right sensor?? I can test it w. the i930.

About the pressures.. So clearly I dont expect the sensor to be linear in 100-2000 psi range.. nor do I believe that 15psi press in 4 corners will be at same height as at 250psi.. So maybe there are several states of sending voltage to the sensor from the controller? Do you know?

And what's 'calibration' by the dealer entail? I mean.. this is a Hitachi-type unit, by Doorman I think.. So maybe the sensor/solenoid ppilot valve, etc. internal resistance is different.. Maybe thats what's the problem now?
Also.. some more info I remember, now I said that.. Again, this is a third unit.. and pretty sure the replacement unit burnt out prematurely.
And I remember the PO telling me they opened the center console, looking for suspension issues ...

Wish I had an idea that explains everything.. like a tank leak (but it stays pressurized overnight).

TIA.
Jan
 
think the 3 x connectors at the front wheel arch need to be checked first

a lot of reports of wires being broken here
 
Havent checked the connectors, but drove it 200 miles yesterday, and a few miles today.
It seems when I start the car, every time there's a k-tchhhh.. a couple of seconds of air release, then the compressor comes on, sometimes for a minute, sometimes for 5 sec. I think if I move before the press is built up , I get the suspension fault yellow. Otherwise its all good.. but after a while.. 10 miles or so, the warning/fault comes on. No noticeble difference in handling, or ride height.
When I accelerated on one drive, every time the red warning/'max speed 35' came on.
I wonder if I have a leak, and the compressor min cut-in pressure is too low..
Does anyone know what the 'dealer calibration' really is? maybe I need that, if it resets heights, pressure switch resistance, etc..
TIA
Jan
 
Have you checked the hight sensors on live data for supply voltage and signal voltage.
The dealer calibration is recalibrating the hight sensors so it knows where it is hight wise (normally used when hight sensors get replaced)
 
great info.. but I need more.. please explain more...
What should I see? how do I test?
I presume when it's calibrated, somehow I need to set the physical height on all 4 corners, or just make sure it's all the same? Then I presume the controller sets that as nominal? I need step-by-step, please? ;)

Also.. when I start the car, and the compressor runs on startup (from 10s to 1 min), and I dont wait for it to shut off and drive, I seem to get yellow and then red 'suspension faults' later. If I wait, I most often dont get faults. And when I watch the press switch data , it pumps up to 1750Kpa (250? psi), then slooowly(5 min) bleeds down to 105Kpa (15psi).. I dont believe that.. No perceptable height change ... Then it'll stay at 105Kpa for good.
 
You want to be seeing around 5 volts and then disconnect each hight sensor and move them thourgh there full range of movement see if the hight sensors change there signal voltage
 
OK.. so it's a year later, and the doorman 'hitachi-style' has failed.. The motor runs, but barely produces any pressure. Its possible of course I have another issue.. which makes the compressors work overtime.. but i checked for leaks (while off.. so all the valves are closed.. yes its possible I have a leak in any of the bags, or the reservoir)..
Anyway. Im considering saw to a spring setup. ARB charges $1100 us for a kit, theres another one for 900. Also I think i can get one for 600 that reuses OEM struts..
But .. can I get the used factory spring suspension from UK , do you know.. Or OldManEmu.. do they make a kit? TIA..
 
talking to myself here... ;)
OK, so.. i took the dorman 'hitachi' (made in PRC) unit apart.. the inside of the bore is all scratched up, the wrist pin came out on disassembly.. pretty clear. The old unit was made in Japan, and had the LR logo.. so Im guessing it was the original, or OEM replacement. It had a nicely made cylinder and piston.. so I swapped the whole OEM head onto the chinese motor. It's all assembled, it's 1am, I'll put it in tomorrow.. crossing fingers..
 
hi Searover.. hi back, Searover..
so.. it seems, that the doorman china-made Hitachi knockoff is a POS.. materials and finish of the piston and sleeve make it fail in 1 year. The OEM real Hitachi lasted 10 yrs, and still its head is in top shape.. but the motor did burn out. So the hybrid asian unit is in place and working great. I did find a leak in the reservoir, which explains why the compressors were working overtime.
I'll drop another 100 on the new tank (out of gas and wire at the moment . .and probably welding all the rusted seams is a waste of time..)..
But its the last $ i spend on the air suspension..
 
Hi searover, read your post - not sure I can help but @gstuart might be along soon and he seems to know about D3 suspension if reading the other threads on this don't help
 
searover said:
hi Searover.. hi back, Searover..
so.. it seems, that the doorman china-made Hitachi knockoff is a POS.. materials and finish of the piston and sleeve make it fail in 1 year. The OEM real Hitachi lasted 10 yrs, and still its head is in top shape.. but the motor did burn out. So the hybrid asian unit is in place and working great. I did find a leak in the reservoir, which explains why the compressors were working overtime.
I'll drop another 100 on the new tank (out of gas and wire at the moment . .and probably welding all the rusted seams is a waste of time..)..
But its the last $ i spend on the air suspension..
Click to expand...

Hi

so how can we help , from what i’ve read , u had a leaking air tank which ur awaiting for a new one and because of this you’ve had to rebuild the compressor ;)
 
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