Mine is set to number 8 which is high torque and med power.

But I have the dash switch fitted which means I can select 'eco' for max mpg.

I had a Synergy2a first of all which needed to have the engine restarted for the switch to take effect - (the low setting was number 5) - better than having to go under the bonnet to get at the box, but not ideal.

I returned the box to Ron who upgraded it to the latest spec and now I don't need to switch off the engine to change mode. When I enter a Motorway I just lift off then flick the switch to 'eco'.

The upgraded Synergy2a+ now has a dedicated economy map setting rather than just the lowest of the numbers.

It's a 3-way toggle switch with the centre position being completely 'OFF' so I can have the motor in it's standard form if I want to compare.

A load of electrickery which I don't fully understand except to say it's more economical when I want it to be and I can still get the power when I choose to have it.

Hope that helps - but if I was you I'd return your box to Ron for the upgrade and get a dash switch if you don't already have one.

Hi all

Sorry to hijack this thread but I'm new to Landy Zone today, well new member but I've used for information in the past and found you all sooo useful! So please go easy on me!

I also have a mega fuel consumption problem with my 53 plate freelander td4 auto and am now very desperate to fix it or she has to go!

A little history, I've had it 3 years in jan, So far, replaced;

Turbo
2 x injectors - starting problem
alternator
battery
New back diesel rear fuel tank pump and filter 6 months ago
Main high pressure fuel pump reconditioned twice as seals blew out
Oil changed 6 months ago with a decent one
just had EGR Valve cleared
New engine breather decompression limiter valve and filter
New brake pads to check none binding

I keep the tyres at 35psi as just me and my 5 yr old with no excess luggage on board and check tyres regularly
never use supermarket fuel


I recently had one of the two above injectors put in due to a starting problem which the garage diagnosed as injector and when i picked it up it was going flat at 30mph which usually its about that point that it boosts.

I took it back and they removed the KINGQUICK? it had on it from when i brought it.

I have no knowledge on this box but was told it was a chip? which i understand pumps more diesel into the injectors? Well all lights were on the box but as I said my knowledge is very limited on this.

They say it was confusing the computer or wasn't working properly.

It now runs ok but just a little more sluggish but I drive pretty sensibly so didn't really make a difference to me but.............. as for my mpg...... well

After leaving the garage I put in just a tenner to see how much difference it made without the kingquick on it and I was pleasantly surprised as I got out of it what I would usually get out of twenty quid so I was looking forward to the difference...... well

Two days after this...

Now I am averaging 13.37mpg!!!

Its crucifying me and if I cannot get to the bottom of it I'm going to have to say goodbye which I really do not want to as I love it.

I've tried using injector cleaner twice but no difference.

If anyone has any advice or knowledge everything would be so very much appreciated as I'm banging my head against the wall and very desperate.

I'm not doing much better 28mpg,had mine a few months, bought from a dealer,2002 TD4 auto es 80,000 miles full service history,as usual said they would service it before i picked it up,not sure they have with this mileage
I have done nothing to it yet but will be taking on board everything that you's guys have done to yours.

Chris

Very interesting thread - thanks to all for the info. Came across it when searching for info for Rover Ron.

I have just bought a 2006 Freelander TD4 Auto. Why Auto? Cos it will be lot easier for my wife to drive when she takes me to & from the pub!

But. I have not yet done any mpg tests so I'm a bit apprehensive about what I'll get.

Tip 1 that struck me was keep the speed down on motorway - makes sense and I'm not going anywhere real fast anyway.

Tip 2. Use Wynns Injector cleaner. Does this really work?

Tip 3. Don't buy supermarket fuel or use the dearer V power fuel. Has anyone calculated the difference in mpg to the added cost?

I always thought supermarket fuel was exactly the same as any other garage. Is it really different?

Tip 4. Buy a Rover Ron unit. This is really on the cards as I like the idea of being able to dial in mpg or power depending on the use at the time. Just need to check out the insurance angle.

I haven't gotten into EGR, MAF stuff yet as it's all Greek to me at this time.

Just off the get a manual.

I was hoping (after my Disco 300) to simply fuel up and go with a Freelander, but I guess I was wrong there.

Cheers


David

David Drew said:

Very interesting thread - thanks to all for the info. Came across it when searching for info for Rover Ron.

I have just bought a 2006 Freelander TD4 Auto. Why Auto? Cos it will be lot easier for my wife to drive when she takes me to & from the pub!

But. I have not yet done any mpg tests so I'm a bit apprehensive about what I'll get.

Tip 1 that struck me was keep the speed down on motorway - makes sense and I'm not going anywhere real fast anyway.

Tip 2. Use Wynns Injector cleaner. Does this really work?

Tip 3. Don't buy supermarket fuel or use the dearer V power fuel. Has anyone calculated the difference in mpg to the added cost?

I always thought supermarket fuel was exactly the same as any other garage. Is it really different?

Tip 4. Buy a Rover Ron unit. This is really on the cards as I like the idea of being able to dial in mpg or power depending on the use at the time. Just need to check out the insurance angle.

I haven't gotten into EGR, MAF stuff yet as it's all Greek to me at this time.

Just off the get a manual.

I was hoping (after my Disco 300) to simply fuel up and go with a Freelander, but I guess I was wrong there.

Cheers


David

Click to expand...

Hi David,

Item #2 Yes Wynns or Millers Injector cleaner will get rid of a lot of built up crap in the entire system. Low mileage, short journey cars are worse effected by this rather than higher mileage longer journey ones. I'd just use a whole bottle of it in one tankful, and that's it - no need for regular use.

Item #3 Supermarket fuel has no (or very little) additives so nothing to compensate for the removal of sulphur which was added as a lubricant, loats of other things too. I've tried all the supermarkets and done as good a comparison as possible and yes the top quality fuel is worth it.

I also now add 2-stoke oil in ratio 200:1 so 250ml per 50 litres which is what I normally do. Engine quieter and less smoke on accelerating.

Check out the EGR and pcv stuff asap - minimum recommendation would be to de-activate the EGR, but better to replace it. For the pcv - get the BMW part.

Plenty threads on here - so lots to read.

Had you just bought a Disco most of this would apply to it too.

Caio,

Singvogel.

Singvogel......you are top bloke!

Thanks..speedy reply and great info

David

Er... whilst at it. Alternator light is flashing randomly, erratically - mostly it seems after starting or when cold.??????

Done about 34 miles and fuel gauge has gone from just over qtr to between qtr and red. MPG checks pdq I think.

David Drew said:

Singvogel......you are top bloke!

Thanks..speedy reply and great info

David

Er... whilst at it. Alternator light is flashing randomly, erratically - mostly it seems after starting or when cold.??????

Done about 34 miles and fuel gauge has gone from just over qtr to between qtr and red. MPG checks pdq I think.

Click to expand...

Sorry -can't help you with the electrickery stuff.

But can warn you that the guages are famous for NOT being accurate - the first 1/4 on the guage takes and age to drop, but the last 1/4 till the light comes on seems very quick. You just have to 'learn' how the guage works.

Caio, S.

Thanks,

Kinda thought that re the gauge. I'm just a bit hyper-sensitive to mpg

David Drew said:

Thanks,

Kinda thought that re the gauge. I'm just a bit hyper-sensitive to mpg

Click to expand...

Aren't we all? Seen the latest price hike - :censored: government, :censored: oil companies!

hi if your alternator light is blinking then the diode pack in your alternator is going you need to get it seen to also the only real way to test your milage is to brim the tank set you trip meter and do some miles and then brim your tank again and see what you have done to the gallon which means get a calculator put your milage in then divid it by the ltrs yu have put in the multiply by 4.55 and that gives you mpg hope this helps

Thanks Teddywood1.

Back to the dealer then for the alternator grrrr.

By my calculations assuming the Freelander tank is 60 litres or 13.19 imp gallons if I was to get 380 to a tank full would this equate to 28.8mpg?

Thats what Im getting for FL but that is hard driving on a motorway for 150 miles and short journeys 1-6miles

sound about right?

Labiarat said:

By my calculations assuming the Freelander tank is 60 litres or 13.19 imp gallons if I was to get 380 to a tank full would this equate to 28.8mpg?

Thats what Im getting for FL but that is hard driving on a motorway for 150 miles and short journeys 1-6miles

sound about right?

Click to expand...

Hi,

For hard driving it's still on the low side of what is possible. If it was only short journeys that would be OK.

Only way to be accurate is to fill right to the brim and then to the brim next time too.

You can't go by the 60 litres LR quote - I've put in 61 or 62 several times when I have ignored the warning light.

I use a conversion factor of 1:.4.546 gallons to litres.

Cheers,

Singvogel.

hmm thinking about it for about a day I was muckin about in the snow so would guess that hasnt helped, and I am assuming 25 miles for the yellow light but maybe more in it....

How much have people managed to get out of their tank when fuel warning light has come on?

Labiarat said:

hmm thinking about it for about a day I was muckin about in the snow so would guess that hasnt helped, and I am assuming 25 miles for the yellow light but maybe more in it....

How much have people managed to get out of their tank when fuel warning light has come on?

Click to expand...

Hi,

There is quite a long thread already on here - entitled 'how many miles per full tank' - I'm sure you'll find it interesting.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/how-many-miles-per-full-tank-176639.html

Running on the yellow light - at reduced speed - will usually get a good bit more than 25 miles - but I wouldn't guarantee it. Don't blame me if you run out on a cold, wet, windy, night on a busy motorway. Ha ha!

Caio,

Singvogel.

thanks singvogel, ive just read the thread I know I should have done a search but was getting in the flow of things

i recentley changed the crankcase filter for the bmw upgrade one wich cost about £23 and it made it much quieter and smoother and now get 400 miles+ when before i was getting about 335 to a full tank, i got a 2004 td4 by the way. you will find some pics and how to change it on here, i did mine twice as the first time i just swapped it for what was in all ready and after 1000 miles it was covererd again in oil, the second time i upgraded to the bmw oil seperater and it took me about 20 mins to change

hiya,

ref the synergy boxes and i noted that some of you have the toggle switch fitted.

ive got a 2002 td4 3 door auto and what do you set your box and toggle switch to please.

i noticed the toggle switch like you say has 3 settings the red,green light and the middle setting which like you say is off.

may i ask what you set your box to and do you put your toggle switch onto the red or green light.

thanks again

gary

gstuart said:

hiya,

ref the synergy boxes and i noted that some of you have the toggle switch fitted.

ive got a 2002 td4 3 door auto and what do you set your box and toggle switch to please.

i noticed the toggle switch like you say has 3 settings the red,green light and the middle setting which like you say is off.

may i ask what you set your box to and do you put your toggle switch onto the red or green light.

thanks again

gary

Click to expand...

The box settings depend on whether you are running a Bosch MAF (numbers 1 to 5) or the Pierburg MAF (numbers 6 to 10)

I'm running a Synergy2a+ on number 8 which is high torque and medium power.

The early toggle switch has the red for Eco and the green for Power.
The later switch (October 2011 on) has green for Eco and red for Power.

I get best results with the Eco setting for motorways and dual carriageways, and keep the power setting for twisty, fun A roads when I need the overtaking power and increased safety that gives.

City and town centres I switch it off - if I remember to.

Hope that helps you.

Singvogel.

hiya,

ive got the bosch maf, with the ealier toggle switch, got it onto the green setting maybe i should put it onto the red setting for the eco

i think ive got my box on number 3 but by altering my toggle switch first it should hopefully make a difference.

have go the maf switch compensator turned off as when it was turned on it smoked abit, so i assumed by the smoke stopping with the maf switch off it was working ok.

as its got 177,00 miles on the clock would like to replace the injectors, i use millers but the injectors are at least £100 each cant really justify that kind of money.

it does drive very well , smooth and doesnt smoke considering the age, also if i had the room and money would love to buy a second age engine, strip it down and rebuild it, sad i know but enjoy doing things like that.

thanks once again

gary