nitromors

good luck its been reformulated and shot up in price,paint strippers all had to be reformulated to meet VOC levels. One i now that hasen't is paramouse but will only be sold to you for use in workshop and u have to sign a disclaimer stating that. This voc sh*t has seen a lot of good paints varnishes and paint strippers disappear :(
 
good luck its been reformulated and shot up in price,paint strippers all had to be reformulated to meet VOC levels. One i now that hasen't is paramouse but will only be sold to you for use in workshop and u have to sign a disclaimer stating that. This voc sh*t has seen a lot of good paints varnishes and paint strippers disappear :(

Ahhh, I've got an old tub knocking about, must be at least 4 years old now


In that case I'd still use a flap disc
 
I used to make my own when stripping paint of my boat hull. Sodium hydroxide with a bit of water and wallpaper paste.

i am not for one mintute recommending you do this!!:)
 
I bought an ex-mod tailgate for my project.

There was the usual 12+ layers of mod paint on it.
I tried nitromors and it did a good job - but only one layer at a time. No exaggeration. One layer.

Flap disks are good but can be very harsh of soft ally without alot of care. DA works well but alot of dust. Don't envy you if you've got a full vehicle to do and want to go bare...
 
Thanks all for the advise. My ex MOD has a thick camo paint job. My goal is to sand it smooth and paint it a solid NATO green.
 
I'd blast it. Compare the cost of bead to stripper, the mess of stripper and making sure you wash all the residue off properly before you paint. The bead will get straight to clean metal in one pass. Stick an industrial hoover on the end if worried about dust.
 
Painted a ex-MOD 110 hardtop a last month, it took me two weeks sanding with an electric DA, used 60grit pads followed by 180grit, for a nice finish. It's the only way of doing it properly. Invest in a good rubber dust mask, that infra-reflective nato paint sounds nasty stuff!
 

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