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evomilk

Member
well after fixing my starter motor at christmas and thinking my disco hell was finally over, my next fault decides to show its ugly head and pull me deeper into the misery of td5 ownership:(.my new problem is the revs dropping off then not being able to rev at all. if i turn it off and re start it it seems to run again but problem is getting more frequent and im noticing alot of flat spots in the rev range any ideas what it could be?
 
Clean the plug with electrical cleaner ( throttle unit ) behind throttle peddle, and maybe unplug maf?..... Mine wouldn't rev sometimes ? The peddle just pushed down then leaped into action but cleaning the maf sensor seems to have curred it
 
thanks for the reply i did think it was maf related. but it's also been suggested it could be crap being sucked up and blocking fuel pump or egr valve being clogged up
 
evomilk said:
thanks for the reply i did think it was maf related. but it's also been suggested it could be crap being sucked up and blocking fuel pump or egr valve being clogged up
Click to expand...

Unplug MAF, take it for a spin, it will run in a default mode - see if that cures it.
 
Well i disconnected the afm this morning and the fault happened twice on my way to work 9 miles,so that rules the afm out. anything else to try? Going to make an egr removal kit the weekend if i get a chance see if that helps.
 
have you had a look at the red plug on the ecu. quick and easy check. oil tracks down the harness and causes all sorts of problems.
 
True my auto would break down completely and rev but no movement in any position!?!?!.with three amigos flashing, one day stuck at the side of the road I thought I'd unplug the ecu plugs to look, there was no oil at all but a little damp, so I sprayed it up with some electrical cleaner then with a little wd40 and it fixed it, hasn't come back since for 18 months or so(touch wood lol) so I check the plugs from time to time
 
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had a quick look at ecu plugs today and there was one small drop of oil about the size of a pin head. would this be enough to cause these kinds of problems?
 
Right gave the plug a clean and now its not cutting out but its stuttering like mad.so had it plugged in to a code reader and heres list of faults so any ideas what could be wrong
1 manifold pressure circuit
2 inlet air temp circuit fault
3 multiplex input circuit fault
4 1% reference voltage fault
5 driver demand 3 fault
6 ambient pressure circuit fault
 
it may be map sensor related, its located on the inlet manifold, 2x 8mm bolts, remove them gently pull it out and clean with carb cleaner, then delete all codes and take for a drive and then re read codes,
the driver demand is linked to the throttle potienometer(accelerator pedal)
 
johnlad said:
it may be map sensor related, its located on the inlet manifold, 2x 8mm bolts, remove them gently pull it out and clean with carb cleaner, then delete all codes and take for a drive and then re read codes,
the driver demand is linked to the throttle potienometer(accelerator pedal)
Click to expand...
+1 for that^^^.... but what kind of tester gave you these codes?, as 1+2 are from MAP/IAT, 5 is the throttle pot, as johnlad said, 6 is the AAP sensor(in the airbox...this one can mix up the MAP reading too) but 3 and 4 are not D2 specific codes
 
well checked the map sensor and it was caked in gunk, so pulled the egr off and that was full of crap along with the inlet. so going to take that off and clean it up and make a egr removal pipe at work.code reader was an mod one that someone bought over for me to use
 
so my quest to get the disco running nice again continues:mad: after cleaning map sensor and removing inlet and cleaning that out, blanking off the egr and changing the injector loom it's still not running right. seems down on power and getting a juddering/ shaking through the vehicle this is happening below 2k rpm.and it's struggling with hills really bogging down so any ideas.
 
check fuse F2 in engine bay... and by the way did you replace the injector loom cos you must as there was oil in the red plug(no matter how much), also the ambient pressure(AAP) sensor must be replaced cos this one if is faulty it limits the manifold pressure(unfortunately it's expensive) ...or plug it in a tester and read live data while running...that would be the most relevant
 
recon those fualt codes are old ones when there was oil in the red plug
have you checked the airbleed valve on the filter head first pipe on left
injector seals have they been replaced reciently
pull the fuel pump out if its coated in black soot injector seals and bleed valve will need done
 
i pulled the fuel pump out today and it's a bit grubby so would you suggest the injector seals need doing from condition of pump?
 
well i had a friend do the injector seals today and it still the same so picking up a new fuel pump in the morning to see if that will sort it. anyone got any other suggestions incase that doesn't cure it :confused:
 
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