Billy110

Member
Evening all.

Just been on the road for 15 hours, should have only taken 9!

2 hours in, I started noticing the odd flat spot, then it got progressively and significantly worse. Terrible when going up the box or hill climbing.

Ok in top gear, very limited power in 2nd and 3rd.

When I got to my destination, it cut out and wouldn’t restart for 15 minutes, then was dog rough so left idling for 15 minutes then it got well enough to start the return leg.

Awful and almost undriveable. Following long hill climbs, I’d pull over as it was so rough with so little power, and when I pulled over the revs dropped off and it cut out. Wouldn’t restart for 10 minutes. This was the pattern for the next 8 hours.

I haven’t serviced the gearbox filter. Could the box be slipping, transmitting heat and somehow causing the rough running? Water temp didn’t move at all. The oil cooler wasn’t running excessively when I was pulled over.

Totally flummoxed.

I put a tank of expensive Shell unicorn diesel to discount bad fuel.

Please help!
 
Evening all.

Just been on the road for 15 hours, should have only taken 9!

2 hours in, I started noticing the odd flat spot, then it got progressively and significantly worse. Terrible when going up the box or hill climbing.

Ok in top gear, very limited power in 2nd and 3rd.

When I got to my destination, it cut out and wouldn’t restart for 15 minutes, then was dog rough so left idling for 15 minutes then it got well enough to start the return leg.

Awful and almost undriveable. Following long hill climbs, I’d pull over as it was so rough with so little power, and when I pulled over the revs dropped off and it cut out. Wouldn’t restart for 10 minutes. This was the pattern for the next 8 hours.

I haven’t serviced the gearbox filter. Could the box be slipping, transmitting heat and somehow causing the rough running? Water temp didn’t move at all. The oil cooler wasn’t running excessively when I was pulled over.

Totally flummoxed.

I put a tank of expensive Shell unicorn diesel to discount bad fuel.

Please help!

Have been in with my meter.

Signal from the MAF, on the MAF plug, showing 0v. Perm live then charging voltage ok.

When running (albeit badly), I can unplug the MAF and the engine continues to run.

On the look out for a supplier for a Genuine LR MAF.

I want to inspect the red ECU plug next but daren’t disconnect the battery as I don’t have the bloody radio code! I’ve put up another thread for this though...
 
Have been in with my meter.

Signal from the MAF, on the MAF plug, showing 0v. Perm live then charging voltage ok.

When running (albeit badly), I can unplug the MAF and the engine continues to run.

On the look out for a supplier for a Genuine LR MAF.

I want to inspect the red ECU plug next but daren’t disconnect the battery as I don’t have the bloody radio code! I’ve put up another thread for this though...
Can do it without disconnecting battery
 
Physically it's possible to remove the ECU and unplug it but i strongly discourage you to do that without disconnecting the battery first cos you can ruin the ECU depending on which pins are making contact first... i've seen two cases so it's a risk
 
Physically it's possible to remove the ECU and unplug it but i strongly discourage you to do that without disconnecting the battery first cos you can ruin the ECU depending on which pins are making contact first... i've seen two cases so it's a risk

Thanks Sierra,

I was reluctant, I know electronics don’t like surges or incorrect inputs.
 
one place to look would also be the in tank fuel pump..

mine packed up and exhibited exactly the same symptoms you described.. sounded like it was running on (for want of a better analogy) three cylinders, coughing and spluttering, white smoke, rough idle the lot..

new in tank pump sorted it.
 
one place to look would also be the in tank fuel pump..

mine packed up and exhibited exactly the same symptoms you described.. sounded like it was running on (for want of a better analogy) three cylinders, coughing and spluttering, white smoke, rough idle the lot..

new in tank pump sorted it.

Thanks Toseland, I’ll go through the fuel system if needs be.
 
MAF ordered, should be here tomorrow.

Cleaned out the MAP sensor tonight, absolutely filthy.

Also cleaned out the Temp sensor in the air box with carb cleaner.

I’ll update if the MAF solves the problem. If not, I’m buying a Nanocom.
 
Update so far.

Just replaced the MAF sensor and now getting a voltage back from the sensor, 2.something volts at idle so happy at this stage.

Unable to test drive it tonight.

However, sounds a little bit lumpy/flat spot when accelerator initially depressed. Sounds good after the initial press.

So, I took the plunge and checked the red plug on my ECU without disconnecting the battery (I don’t have the radio code) and did find oil in the plug. None on the ECU pins and nothing inside the ECU housing.

I’m going to replace the injector harness this weekend. Aside from the harness and rocker cover gasket, is there anything else I need? Does anyone have a description/size of the flexi conduit?
 
Thanks Brian.

Who knew it was called corrugated and split!

It does make sense though.

When you cut it to length and put it onto whatever loom you're working on, tape off the ends to prevent them coming apart again. I've found self amalgamating tape tape to be pretty good at the job.
 

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