Skolmate

Skolmate

Active Member
Not really enjoying a steering issue that I'm encoutering currently. There's a bit of play in the steering, where I guess it about 2 inches of not being engaged or doing anything if that makes sense? So particularly on a straight I find myself over correcting just trying to stay between the lines, kinda like if I was ****faced. Anyway, I know my steering box is a bit leaky also so I should prob try save up and get a recon'd box but until then is there anything I can tighten up to reduce this? What's the bolt on the bottom with a lock washer bent over it do?

Cheers for any help.
 
You need to get under the bonnet whilst someone wiggles the steering wheel to see where the lost movement actually is and report back.
 
Check for play on all of the track rod ends, that the bushes on the anti-roll bar are solid, and that your swivel ball bearngs (or Railko Bushes) don't have any play in them.
All easy jobs taken one at a time, then, once they have all been confirmed as OK, take a look at reducing the backlash in your steering box.
 
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Drop arm came loose on my pas box that was interesting!

Ps leak wont cause free play unless a bearing is on its way out.
 
Skolmate said:
What does that big nut tighten with the folded over washer?
Click to expand...
The first thing that occurs to people, with a steering issue, is the steering box. But, there's a hell of a lot more to the steering system than the box. You're possibly talking about the sector shaft adjuster locknut. I would recommend you leave that alone and check the joints as the guys have said. Small amounts of play on a joint can have a much larger affect at the wheel. If you have wear in a number then this is magnified. These joints have a tough job to do in dirty conditions, they are not that expensive and relatively easy to replace. Once you know all the joints are in top order, then consider the box.
 
Just to add....
Check for any movement on the UVJ on the steering rack! Faling that check your track rod ends and track rod and go from there.
 
The only thing I would add to the advice above is to resolve this urgently - that sounds like a lot of play to me. :eek:
 
Check the drop arm ball joint, a surprisingly small amount of wear gives a lot of snack
 
Disco1BFG said:
The only thing I would add to the advice above is to resolve this urgently - that sounds like a lot of play to me. :eek:
Click to expand...


Possibly not so, on a hgv its 3 inches of free play is max at the steering wheel and like most mot things it will me prorated down the scale so 2 inches might well be acceptable on a PLG.
Ive seen t/r ends so badly worn they are ready to fall off that have had no effect on the steering, partially seizing ones on the other hand.

Steering box vehicles always have much more freeplay than a steering rack.

Defenders have always had steering boxes and discos had steering boxes until the D3 came out when they went over to conventional racks
 
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1" of freeplay at the rim is the maximum for a car with a steering box, 1/2" for rack and pinion steering, the play and symptoms you describe is clearly not right.
The first place I would look is what you describe as the big nut with the folded over washer. This holds on the drop arm, which can be an absolute tw@ to remove.
There is a tendency for people (myself included) not to tighten this nut tight enough when they replace the bottom seal on the steering box in the vain hope that it will be easier to remove next time and this can allow the drop arm to work loose and slop about on the splines.
It does not take much slop to cause the symptoms you describe.
Go to the front of the Land Rover and grab hold of the ball joint at the end of the drop arm. Rag it about up and down and side to side, if there is any movement at all where it attaches to the box there is a problem.
If it is loose the now would be a good time to replace the bottom seal if it needs doing as the drop arm will come off easily, then re-fit the drop arm with a new tab washer and tighten it up really tight, then get a long bar with a socket and tighten it really really tight.
Or as others have said it could be a ball joint or column U/J, but the big nut would be my first guess.
 
There are UJs in the steering shaft leading from the wheel to the steering box, any play in them will give quite a bit of movement at the wheel. They're cheap and easy enough to change. Is there play when the vehicle is stationary?
 
Best way to test is to have an assistant sit in the drivers' seat and rock the steering from side to side whilst you feel at the joints for wear in the joints, from the symptoms you describe the fault will soon be obvious.
As a random suggestion, wear in the bush on the tie rod that goes from the bracket below the steering box to the front axle can also affect the steering as it allows the axle to move from side to side slightly.
 
Skolmate said:
Not really enjoying a steering issue that I'm encoutering currently. There's a bit of play in the steering, where I guess it about 2 inches of not being engaged or doing anything if that makes sense? So particularly on a straight I find myself over correcting just trying to stay between the lines, kinda like if I was ****faced. Anyway, I know my steering box is a bit leaky also so I should prob try save up and get a recon'd box but until then is there anything I can tighten up to reduce this? What's the bolt on the bottom with a lock washer bent over it do?

Cheers for any help.
Click to expand...

Assuming its not drop arm play which it usually isn't.

Follow the steering column down to the power steering box and the nut on the top, just loosen, then tighten carefully with the allen key... et voila. Don't over do it.
 
ER1C said:
Assuming its not drop arm play which it usually isn't.

Follow the steering column down to the power steering box and the nut on the top, just loosen, then tighten carefully with the allen key... et voila. Don't over do it.
Click to expand...
Do I need to have it on full lock?
 
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