A 300Tdi auto will most likely be an EDC (electronic diesel control) fly by wire engined vehicle, be warned, EDC parts are no longer available and have not been easily found as good second hand spares of late, converting to manual throttle pump is another cost on top of the vehicle itself so bare that in mind when it comes to how it runs when you test drive it and come to make an offer should it suit you.
Auto box fluid colour and smell should be used as an indicator as to the life and service history of the truck, brown/black with a burned smell to it is an obvious hint that it has been lacking in servicing and had a hard life, could run on for a long time still after service and filter changes though.
Remember the newest you will find will be some 20 years old now!!!
All the usual suspects will be needing attention, suspension bushings, springs and shocks, steering ball joints are all service items and unless they've already been replaced at some point will all need looked over carefully.
Auto box fluid colour and smell should be used as an indicator as to the life and service history of the truck, brown/black with a burned smell to it is an obvious hint that it has been lacking in servicing and had a hard life, could run on for a long time still after service and filter changes though.
Remember the newest you will find will be some 20 years old now!!!
All the usual suspects will be needing attention, suspension bushings, springs and shocks, steering ball joints are all service items and unless they've already been replaced at some point will all need looked over carefully.
What, like the light boxes, front inner wheel arches, foot wells, sills, rear wheel arches, boot floor, rear body cross member and of course all of the body mounts.
Chassis are quite sound but are not unknown to rot away unless they have been regularly waxoyled.
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
Have you searched Japanese import. If the company still around might be worth a peak. If there any in good nick it will be pretty rare for the age.
AdamD1
Well-Known Member
I really thought mine was very solid, have been doing some digging and have found quite a few spots in need of repair this weekend. Nothing disastrous but things that will need looking at. Lift carpets, poke around the wheel arches and inner wings, you will almost certainly find more than you think is there.
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
That sexy "see through" look you get when a Disco gets "wet".
AdamD1
Well-Known Member
Did someone say crotchless??
They are probably approaching the point where you’ll have to pay top money for one thets been properly sorted or buy pretty much any one on the market and accept you’re going to find crusty bits. Like I say, I thought mine was properly solid when I bought it 18 months ago, it’s probably still above average but it’ll need more money spent on it to keep it that way after this weekends discoveries. Any 20 yr old LR is going to be a money pit if you want to keep it nice.
They are probably approaching the point where you’ll have to pay top money for one thets been properly sorted or buy pretty much any one on the market and accept you’re going to find crusty bits. Like I say, I thought mine was properly solid when I bought it 18 months ago, it’s probably still above average but it’ll need more money spent on it to keep it that way after this weekends discoveries. Any 20 yr old LR is going to be a money pit if you want to keep it nice.
That must be a great car !
Nah, when I lived in Belgium I did a 300Tdi, now that had real rust problems.
This was after I had finished cutting out all the rot in the drivers side door pillar, footwell and sill.
There was a lot more on the passenger side too including the rear arch.
MJI
Well-Known Member
Or do one of these on a good chassis
http://www.dakar4x4.me.uk/
A friend has one and it was borrowed last year by Anneka Rice
Choose Dakar and go down the page a bit, that is his
http://www.dakar4x4.me.uk/
A friend has one and it was borrowed last year by Anneka Rice
Choose Dakar and go down the page a bit, that is his
MJI
Well-Known Member
So you will need to weld it. Or pay a lot.
Clean ordinary unrusted ones are no longer cheap
D1 prices have now bottomed out and are climbing.
Huge attrition through rust and engine donors.
I only see one around now, quite a few D2 but mainly D3 and D4.
I imported mine into Holland when I moved over state lines from Belgium easy enough, but the paperwork with the Belastingdienst was a pain in the a$$, could you get a lichtervrachtwagen D1 in BE and import it to NL and put the back seats back in it?
Most people I know running LVW in BE kept the rear seats and belts to sell on with the vehicle at a later date.
Maybe this is an option for you?
