Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
it is rare for the headgasket to fail on a RV8 in a such a way that it allows water/oil to mix usually they fail and cause water to cascade down the side of the block, the Front cover gasket failing is more common dumping coolant in to the oil and in a rare case the block can crack behind a liner allowing coolant to weep down the side of the liner in to the sump and again known issue, defective valley gasket which can cause water to pour down the V of the engine..
Worth stripping it down and having a gander, you might not have to pull the engine out, the front cover and HG's can be done very easily with the engine still in the car
Last edited:
okay thanks Henry. not really got anything to lose by taking heads off have i. might aswell give it a goit is rare for the headgasket to fail on a RV8 in a such a way that it allows water/oil to mix usually they fail and cause water to cascade down the side of the block, the Front cover gasket failing is more common dumping coolant in to the oil and in a rare case the block can crack behind a liner allowing coolant to weep down the side of the liner in to the sump and again known issue, defective valley gasket..
Worth stripping it down and having a gander, you might not have to pull the engine unit out, the front cover and HG's can be done very easily with the engine still in the car
discool
Well-Known Member
When its was stated that the engine had over heated I thought LPG, its a issue thats well documented in the LR forums for the D1 and 2 using LPG with an iffy cooling system.
Coolant escaping out and running outside the block indicates the block is now scrap, theres so no need to state the obvious options, U make your choice and run with it, but if u feel the rest of the vehicle is worth a replacement engine you could end up with a winner.
Coolant escaping out and running outside the block indicates the block is now scrap, theres so no need to state the obvious options, U make your choice and run with it, but if u feel the rest of the vehicle is worth a replacement engine you could end up with a winner.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
I will disagree with that, failure of the gasket around the front/rear water galleries allowing water to run down the side of the block is rather common and usually easy to fix.Coolant escaping out and running outside the block indicates the block is now scrap,
ive only got half a story of whats happened to the engine, like i said it was passed down to me when my dad passed. i think its worth taking the heads off and having a dig around.When its was stated that the engine had over heated I thought LPG, its a issue thats well documented in the LR forums for the D1 and 2 using LPG with an iffy cooling system.
Coolant escaping out and running outside the block indicates the block is now scrap, theres so no need to state the obvious options, U make your choice and run with it, but if u feel the rest of the vehicle is worth a replacement engine you could end up with a winner.
does that mean all pulleys off and everything at the front end of the engine to get to that area?
Here's the old girl for anyone interestedyes,
Attachments
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Looks tidy, mot history is good!
yeah its got loads of paperwork with it. It's too good to scrap
Looks tidy on the top
Now the big question is if you really want to keep it, How much are you willing able to spend
Plenty or running S/H engines available to chuck in, but whos to say you wont be in the same place next year?
Now, If you actually want to keep it then you could pay 4-5k for a top hat liner long block and pretty much straight swap it (big investment but it will outlast the car) Or a short block (2-3k ?) But that requires a lot more spannering.
There are S/H top hat blocks around too.
From what you have said it was put back together but not actually run?
So you have nothing to lose by taking off the heads to have a closer look.
I would first say. It also worth checking before you take anything off as to your late fathers thoughts and why.
What I am saying is see if you can get it to run first.
Pressure test the water system and check for contamination.
As for putting the 4.6 in as much as I like it, it will bring other issues.
Your HP22 gearbox could struggle.
Your ECU will need changing.
Good luck.
J
thank you. its seized at the moment. im going to take plugs out a drop some plus gas in the cylinders and leave it a couple of days and see if i can get it to crank. then ill check to see whats actually going off before stripping heads if needed!Looks tidy on the top
Now the big question is if you really want to keep it, How much are you willing able to spend
Plenty or running S/H engines available to chuck in, but whos to say you wont be in the same place next year?
Now, If you actually want to keep it then you could pay 4-5k for a top hat liner long block and pretty much straight swap it (big investment but it will outlast the car) Or a short block (2-3k ?) But that requires a lot more spannering.
There are S/H top hat blocks around too.
From what you have said it was put back together but not actually run?
So you have nothing to lose by taking off the heads to have a closer look.
I would first say. It also worth checking before you take anything off as to your late fathers thoughts and why.
What I am saying is see if you can get it to run first.
Pressure test the water system and check for contamination.
As for putting the 4.6 in as much as I like it, it will bring other issues.
Your HP22 gearbox could struggle.
Your ECU will need changing.
Good luck.
J
Last edited:
norseman
Well-Known Member
Believe it or not, one of the best products to use is Coca Cola .. no I'm not joking
Back in the 'nineties I freed off a WW2 Dodge engine that had been standing for 5 years. Took the head off (side-valve engine) filled the cylinders with CC & left it for a week. First heave on the starting handle & it was free enough to spin over on the starter motor.
nb. use Coke not Pepsi.
v8250
Well-Known Member
Get it in the kitchen
That was my thought too, or at the very least build a garden shed in day and use this for engine building services and then re-use for garden equipment storage duties post engine rebuild.
@Nvv , I've been rebuilding RV8's for a good while now. They're very easy engines to rebuild, not at all complicated and recommend you buy this book to help along the way Amazon product
Although originally written for sporting engines it covers a mass of information not found in other technical publications.
Re' route cause it does sound like a slipped liner. This fault is quite common and the correct answer is to send the block to Turner Engineering who'll do a smashing job at cleaning up, removing old liners, press in new liners, lightly block the deck, hone the liners and post back to you. Give them a call and talk with Richard or Frida https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk...8-42-v8-range-rover-engine-parts-c102x3005707
Of course there must be an good engineering house local to you who could complete the same, John Eales is closer to you in Leicestershire https://johnealesroverv8.co.uk/ , same with Peter Burgess in Derbyshire [Peter's very good, incredibly knowledgeable and correctly priced] http://www.peter-burgess.com/indexstart.html
v8250
Well-Known Member
Believe it or not, one of the best products to use is Coca Cola .. no I'm not joking
Back in the 'nineties I freed off a WW2 Dodge engine that had been standing for 5 years. Took the head off (side-valve engine) filled the cylinders with CC & left it for a week. First heave on the starting handle & it was free enough to spin over on the starter motor.
nb. use Coke not Pepsi.
Another +1 here for full fat Coca-Cola. Go but a good few litres and keep topping up over 4-5 days. The trick with seized engines is to free them off gently. Do not be tempted to hammer the life out of the pistons as this puts far too much unnecessary strain on the adjoining components. Plus, if you get thirsty you'll have a bottle to hand...
