Twice now my Defender has failed its MOT and subsequent retest due to the brake pedal having too much travel. The tester said that he knows the brakes are there and they work but the pedal has got too much travel and is nearing the floor when pressure is kept on it. Unfortunately it's a fail. The push rod is at the ideal length as far as I can tell and the brakes have been bled multiple times with zero air in the system. I'm not losing any fluid, all brake pipes and flexis are new (flexis have also been replaced with the steel braided type), the master cylinder is new and the servo is only a year old. Rear pads are new as is one caliper with the other being only two or so years old. What else can I do to try and sort this as it's doing my head in.

Defender 110 300tdi

There is adjustment on the rod as it enters the master cylinder in the brake pedal tower.

Here is a link to another forum with more info that may help ..

miktdish said:

There is adjustment on the rod as it enters the master cylinder in the brake pedal tower.

Here is a link to another forum with more info that may help ..

Brakes - long pedal

Ive not been 100% happy with the braking on the 110 for a while. OK, so Im probably comparing a 2.5 ton 110 with an almost-empty 90, but I do feel like it ought to stop better... and the pedal is low and I cant seem to get it any higher... A while ago I fitted new ventilated disks plus...

www.lrukforums.com

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I had already adjusted the push rod and I'm wary of adjusting it too much and putting constant pressure on the piston itself. The actual brake pedal has about 15mm or so of free play before it actuates the pushrod so I'm happy with that but obviously the pushrod into the master cylinder is the only other real adjustment on it. At the moment the pushrod is sitting pretty much dead on the face inside of the piston and I can feel it pushing the piston inside the master cylinder once that free play on the pedal is taken up. Why it will continue to go to the floor I don't know. Only other thing I can think of to adjust this itself is to lengthen it more, see if that helps and then work back from there.

I had something similar with one of mine years ago. Eventually it was traced to a cheap servo that was actually flexing when the pedal was pushed, so the brakes were always vague. A new quality servo fixed the problem

Def90man said:

I had something similar with one of mine years ago. Eventually it was traced to a cheap servo that was actually flexing when the pedal was pushed, so the brakes were always vague. A new quality servo fixed the problem

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Funny you should say that I noticed mine doing that very thing last night. I pressed the brake pedal with a pole whilst feeling the master cylinder so I could tell when the piston was actually engaged and I could physically see the face of the servo flexing out. I've bought a better quality one so fingers crossed it sorts it when it comes in