ScotsJamie

New Member
So. I have just gotten my Rangie back from the garage. I was driving to work on Friday and the temp spiked. Straight into the garage next to my office.

The viscous coupling for the cooling fan was fooked - so that was replaced and the overheating has been resolved. While it was in, I asked him to have a look at the oil leak that was dripping spots of oil onto my drive, he determined and repaired the following.

It turns out that the muppet I bought it from had created the following issues.
1. When the engine was replaced the power steering pump was not correctly fitted (washers were missed out, creating an oil leak, washers replaced, oil leak sorted)
2. The battery in the car was not large enough for it. probably from mid range ford, so i was advised to change it as the slow crank could damage the starter... so off I trot to Halfords. (A girl who works for me has a trade card)

Got the battery, disconnected the old one and it doesn't fit... terminals are too far away from the connectors (or at the bottom of battery, not the top as you look at it).. That's OK... I'lll take it back, swap for the other option, so I put the old batter back on... AND THE LOCKS DON'T BLOODY WORK.

They lock/unlock when door buttons pushed/pulled from inside so c/locking works, but the key and fob both won't lock or unlock the doors, have tried the sync process several times but nada. HELP!!!!!!
 
sounds like your receiver. get it on diagnostics ASAP.
you really do not want to burn your locks out.
You need to attend to this today!!!!!!!! or it will cost you ££££££££
 
How exactly did you resync? Stick key in door lock, turn to lock while pressing lock button on fob, turn to unlock while pressing unlock button on fob? Just saying that if for example you press the wrong button or don't press simultaneous to turning the key it may not work.
 
Well, and upate on the update. Apparently the temp spike has damaged the water pump seal, and got out of the office to a pool of coolant under the car. So it's back in the gge, will get a new water pump tomorrow. The other issue is that it seems to have developed an EAS fault while in the gge. The mech seems to think it's a fault code just needs to be cleared, going on a Landy diagnostic tomorrow and hopefully will be sorted (fingers crossed)
 
Well, and upate on the update. Apparently the temp spike has damaged the water pump seal, and got out of the office to a pool of coolant under the car. So it's back in the gge, will get a new water pump tomorrow. The other issue is that it seems to have developed an EAS fault while in the gge. The mech seems to think it's a fault code just needs to be cleared, going on a Landy diagnostic tomorrow and hopefully will be sorted (fingers crossed)

Caused be same mech there lifted car without freezing EAS first, hope he pays for that
 
Well, and upate on the update. Apparently the temp spike has damaged the water pump seal, and got out of the office to a pool of coolant under the car. So it's back in the gge, will get a new water pump tomorrow. The other issue is that it seems to have developed an EAS fault while in the gge. The mech seems to think it's a fault code just needs to be cleared, going on a Landy diagnostic tomorrow and hopefully will be sorted (fingers crossed)

Make sure you get a pump with the metal impeller, the plastic ones break.

Caused be same mech there lifted car without freezing EAS first, hope he pays for that

Freezing the EAS will not help if the axles hung on the lift, the sensors move to a part of their range that is rarely used and pick up crap then giv duff readings.
 
Make sure you get a pump with the metal impeller, the plastic ones break.



Freezing the EAS will not help if the axles hung on the lift, the sensors move to a part of their range that is rarely used and pick up crap then giv duff readings.



How do you avoid messing up heights sensors if putting P38 up on 4 stands?

P
 
How do you avoid messing up heights sensors if putting P38 up on 4 stands?

P

Put it up to wading height and back down to access a couple of times then leave it at wading height with the tailgate open. If the shocks are good, should be OK:D
 
So no need to use freeze button.....you do this with engine running to start with then turn off with tailgate open?.......can you explain why shocks need to be ok......this is to get under it to do l the Dinitrol thing

P
 
So no need to use freeze button.....you do this with engine running to start with then turn off with tailgate open?.......can you explain why shocks need to be ok......this is to get under it to do l the Dinitrol thing

P
Engine running to start with, the idea of moving up and down between limits is to push the crap to the end of the sensor tracks. Tailgate (or a door) open freezes the suspension per the handbook.
The shocks limit axle movement, wrong or defective shocks can let the axle drop too far damaging the height sensors. It's better to lift on the wheels if possible using ramps if you do not have access to a suitable lift.
 
Well - She is back - The water pump is replaced - the new metal impeller is doing it's job nicely (can hear the fan going) AND...... the mech notice that there was a vac hose off and this is why car was down on power - the difference is very apparent. still a bit slower than I want her to be, but 50% better than before.

I have to say, that although it took the gge over a week to get the car in and out (I had a decent courtesy car tho) I am very pleased with the service. The delay was that his Landy diagnostic kit (he works on a lot of Landy's) was away for repair after being dropped and the other diagnostics wouldn't clear the fault.

The only issue outstanding is the locks.. it's going in on Monday to have them looked at.. but overall a very happy owner after a pleasant drive home.

And he didn't charge me for resetting the EAS, as it was on the ramp when it happened.
 

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