This thread is a few years old now, when I poke my finger into the chassis I can still feel tacky linseed oil in there, the problem is I can also feel water in the oil, just behind the rear cross member, im going to drill some drain holes and spray it again when it has dried out.
 
This thread is a few years old now, when I poke my finger into the chassis I can still feel tacky linseed oil in there, the problem is I can also feel water in the oil, just behind the rear cross member, im going to drill some drain holes and spray it again when it has dried out.

Is your chassis in a decent state still then? I'm thinking just paint cio on outside and treat inside on mine
 
Thread resurrection time ! just jet washed the chassis on my 90 - looking for products to treat the chassis with now I have some time on my hands! (and no money) - the chassis has surface rust/pitting and the rear crossmember has been replaced some years ago, but overall its pretty solid.
Also is the best thing to get it on axle stands and remove all the wheels? tried driving the front wheels up onto railway sleeper, but the wheels were still in the way a bit.
 
fred was a top geezer

Unknown-1.jpeg
 
Thread resurrection time ! just jet washed the chassis on my 90 - looking for products to treat the chassis with now I have some time on my hands! (and no money) - the chassis has surface rust/pitting and the rear crossmember has been replaced some years ago, but overall its pretty solid.
Also is the best thing to get it on axle stands and remove all the wheels? tried driving the front wheels up onto railway sleeper, but the wheels were still in the way a bit.

I would be happy to remove one wheeel at a time if working underneath it, but would be very wary of all four off the car at once.
For cheapness you really cannot beat the waxes, ie waxoyl or the cheaper versions on ebay, little clean oil in the mix keeps it softer for longer so it does not dry out.
 

Similar threads