Hi all, fairly new to this. Got a F1 and it has been feeling like the brakes are stuck on...investigated and found that the drivers side front disc was hot other wasn’t anywhere near as warm. Swapped the Caliper and cleaned up the pins, new pads etc...drove home and it’s still there. Mostly present on hills under load, setting off at junctions and out of turns. S****ing myself that it’s major now. Any ideas? Thanks.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Definitely get the wheels and drums off and check the rear brakes. However, also check the VCU and tyres....
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
Yeah the Viscous Coupling is what is worrying me! Is there a way to remove the rear prop and just run it as a two wheel temporary until I can replace the Viscous?
Yeah, like I say, I changed the front Caliper (off side) and it seemed like it was sticking but since this change, the issue is still present?
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Many people have just removed the VCU and the prop shafts it connects to. However, you will be uninsured unless you inform your insurance company that you have made this modification. You may also find that it fails the most recent additions to MOT checks.
You would be better off doing the 1 wheel up test in that link to determine if there is an issue with it. Also check that all your tyres are the same make/model and pumped to the same pressure.
That’s a great idea and good advice on the insurance and MOT! I will start with the ‘one up’ wheel test, cheers. I know that the tires are ok as they have been on and pressures checked regular since buying the vehicle (4 months ago) and there has been no issue with those thanks for your help.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The tyres need to be identical, same make, same type, same size, with the least worn on the rear. Anything outside this strict criteria causes transmission wind up and destruction of the components.
Bloody hell. Never realised that the brand had to be the same and everything. Size I understand but surprised by the rest! Thanks for the advice. Just checked VIscous Coupling in the bar test and all is good there Cheers pal
Hiya mate, checked the VIscous just now with the bar test and all is good there, happy about that. Next I will check these rear brakes and the tires! Thanks
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The same size tyres from different manufacturers will all have slightly different radius. Unfortunately the VCU on the Freelander is designed to transfer torque, when it's shafts begin to rotate at different speeds. So tyres with a different radius, will cause the VCU to transfer torque when it shouldn't, which is very bad for the mechanical components.
So for safety, all tyres must be identical, with the least worn on the rear. This is the only real way to be sure the mechanical components stay healthy.
PotteringPaul
Member
I have a similar problem with it feeling like my brakes are on. Accelerating feels like the car really struggled to get up to speed. Coasting in neutral has let me know my brakes are not on. I have the 3 amigos on which have been showing for a couple of weeks, could they be anything to do with the sluggishness?
PotteringPaul
Member
Continuing from above. This morning my car was feeling worse. Left it half way to work because it felt so close to dying and got a lift in the rest of the way. This evening after getting dropped off back at my car I decided to see if the engine was running okay. Was nice and smooth as normal but at 1900rpm the smooth revving got a little bit lumpy. More revs than that and it got very lumpy. Drove home staying around 45mph keeping the revs below 1900 and it seemed okay. I've had a turbo house split on me before but this time I've not heard the sucking air or seen the black exhaust smoke. Anyone with any ideas what the problem could be?
PotteringPaul
Member
For my previous thread it is a 2001 Freelander with TD4 engine
RossRobObey
Active Member
You didn't mention new discs... if that wheel station is still got after changing the caliper, chances are the sticking caliper from before has warped the disc.
@ PotteringPaul
your better off starting a new thread ..
reads like you've got an engine issue ..
Td4 (FL1) Engine Description and Fault Diagnosis
links to .pdf downloads ..
1) engine description:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-m47r-engine-pdf-file.288724/
2) fault diagnosis:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/75-zt-td4-fault-diagnosis.203935/
(*1 .. the td4 uses a variable vane turbo .. 'n later models don't have the fuel tank lift pump )
as for the 3 amigos .. it's usually related to the abs system / stop light switch
( do the brake lights work ? )
try a forum search for the 3 amigos
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
your better off starting a new thread ..
reads like you've got an engine issue ..
Td4 (FL1) Engine Description and Fault Diagnosis
links to .pdf downloads ..
1) engine description:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-m47r-engine-pdf-file.288724/
2) fault diagnosis:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/75-zt-td4-fault-diagnosis.203935/
(*1 .. the td4 uses a variable vane turbo .. 'n later models don't have the fuel tank lift pump )
as for the 3 amigos .. it's usually related to the abs system / stop light switch
( do the brake lights work ? )
try a forum search for the 3 amigos
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
PotteringPaul
Member
Had a look under the cover this evening and (as looking from the front of the car) top left intercooler house has possibly got a hole in where it rubs on the engine parts. Replaced that a few years ago and guess it's time to do it again. Also the hose on the bottom right (below the 90 degree elbow) is covered in dirty oily gunk so shall look to see if there's a leak there somewhere.
Thanks for the link to the PDFs. That's some handy info
Thanks for the link to the PDFs. That's some handy info
