FFG

Active Member
Anyone fitted one to a series 3? The commercially available ones all seem to work on the door light switch. Only want it on the full beam as never bother with side lights as they are a waste of time, but needs to function off the toggle switch.
I've seen one which uses a relay from the ignition but not sure if that's the best way to go or not.
http://www.internet-tools.co.uk/blo...s-warning-buzzer-to-my-series-iii-land-rover/
Still getting my head around the 42 year wiring with lots of amendments and add ons. Just fitted a 12v socket with success and a LED strip lamp on the roof between cab and rear which works a treat.
FFG
 
Hello - yes I fitted one and it works very well. I'd bet it has warned me at least a dozen times in the last 12 months so well worth the (minimal) effort.

You need a normally closed relay fed from the ignition live so that with the lights on and the ignition off the buzzer sounds. As soon as you energise the relay with the ignition the buzzer stops. Obviously if the lights are off then there is no buzzer in either condition.

I actually fed mine from the sidelights, as I tend to have them on during the day as corner markers, and installed another inline switch before the buzzer so that if I did want to leave my sidelights on whilst parked I could do without causing a racket.

You may need some of the piggy-back type spade connectors to get the feeds from the fuse box under the steering column and the back of the light switch but it's a pretty easy job to do. Just leave plenty of length on your cables and tuck it in behind the dash.

Make sure you check everything twice as you could end up shorting your lights or ignition circuit straight to earth which isn't advised. You can get the relay, buzzer, wire and connectors from Maplin - at least that's what I did.

Cheers, Ric
 
Thanks Ric. I've some piggy back spades as I used some for the double horn upgrade (the previous horn was joke and couldnt hear it over the V8) and plenty of cable. Which relay did you get and do you have any pics?
 
I wired my lights into an ignition on live, that way they only work if the ignition is on so you can't leave em on.
 
Which relay did you get and do you have any pics?

I've not got any pictures of mine, but I can get some if needed. This is the relay I bought:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PIN-NORMA...ED-HOLDER-12V-DC-20-AMP-NEW-N-C-/290919977733

I didn't used the holder, just insulated spade connectors. The buzzer came from Maplin and is sufficiently annoying:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/wire-ended-piezo-buzzer-cr34m

I just used a small rocker switch I had lying about to isolate the buzzer if needed, something like this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/slim-line-rocker-switch-n19cl

Let me know if you need anything else.

Ric
 
I've bought the same relay which is pre wired. The ignition + and the battery - are connected by a loop wire which isnt on the diagram on the internet tools website picture in my original post which I think I need to take out - any advice. I'm awaiting the rocker switches so I can isolate the buzzer if required.
 
Finally sussed it after looking at conflicting wiring diagrams. I just used the relay (NC not NO) and binned the attached wired holder as I couldn't get it to work so connected everything temporarily until it worked. Anyway 86 pin is to earth (you can put the buzzer earth is here too), 85 pin to a source which is live with ignition on only, 87a goes to the feed from the light switch which I managed to get a live for side and dipped beam, but you could use the instrument lighting depending upon which is the easier access and there isnt much space behind there, and 30 is to the buzzer feed (be careful with the buzzer wiring as its very light duty cable and easy to tear off the copper strands so I folded the cable back to double its size and dobbed some solder along the exposed copper to strengthen it). I also added a switch so I can turn the buzzer off if I want the lights on when the ignition is off. Now works a treat.
 

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