longdog
Active Member
If you go through the grommet on the drivers side, the only wire that will need extending is the feed from the driving light switch to the driving light relay which is fitted onto a bracket secured by the battery clamp bolt.hiya
may i pick ur brains please, as mine is left hand drive, the only connections ive got to make under the bonnet its the live and neutral to the battery and also the connection to the back of the head light for the main beam section
ive got some soare baterry cabke and a bus bar, if i simply turned the loom the other way round and extended the the battery leads via a bus bar does it matter which headlight ive got to connect the section into please, does it matter if i connect it into the right or left headlight please
as i could then just extend the baterry leads via the bus bar and then run the lead through the drivers side and not have to mess around,
does that make sense please, just trying to think of an easy way to do it , in converting it from a left hand to right hand drive in by simply turning the loom the other way round and extending the leads via a bus bar
thks again so much for the help
plus got all the brackets on today, blimey arnt thkse rivnuts fun to do, had to go and get a 10.5mm drill bit then realised had to leave the bolt in before i hammered them into the bumper, as if i left the bolt out and hammered them in it would make the rivnut loose
got there in the end , but now got to find all the part numbers fornthe front grill and arches as all the screws were knackered
thks
gary
That can be done in the engine bay.
You do not connect anything at the head light, that is done at the fuse box, the battery connections are as per LR instructions.
The fog light side will not be affected as the relay is fitted by, and feed taken from the fuse box.
As for the knackered screws, main dealers for self tappers
Stainless steel flange head screws from ebay.