marjon

marjon

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Not sure where to ask this but figure here is good enough. Never used them before.

So I know I have an issue with a broken bolt in a captive nut. So am thinking that this may work. Going to have try to drill a broken bolt that I can’t really see, so dont have high hope of success and will end up swearing all the way to the coffee pot. So want backup. Drilling a new hole would be easy.
Its not a structural thing.

But.
So am thinking the stainless 1s are harder to squish, but are more likely to let me get the bolt out in the future, (do I need to I don’t know but never say never).
I am also not sure if there is enough space to get those tools in, will they even do stainless inserts. Do I really need SS insets?

Do I need a tool because it could be tight for space. Seems it can be done easy enough with a bolt,nut and washer.

Going shopping on Geoffs site soon.

So experiences folks good or bad.

Cheers.

J
 
Any rivnut is just fine IF you grease the bolt on assembly.
I personally hate the things, had so many where people have assembled the thing dry, then years later I come along and try to undo the fastener only for the rivnut to spin.
I do use them, Eclipse hand rivnut tool, cheap ones are just dogshti.
 
I have a bagful of assorted sizes, ally ones, off eBay. Only ever used a combination of bolts, nuts and washers to install them. Getting them well squished is the key to success, and a good slather of copper grease on the threads of the fasteners.
 
So a few things to consider

1) Rivnut material ( ali / stainless etc)
2) Rivnut type all metal or rubber (Rub nuts with brass)

I use them all the time, they are very good and very strong, however as with most things

You need to know how to apply them
You need to by quality ones

You need to consider your application, for fixing into a defender panel rubnuts are better to stop galvanic corrosion but its the strength of the panel you have to consider in torsion so ok for small brackets without much weight etc)
On other hand if you going into the chassis stong as hell but you want a stainless marine grade, notched and knurled one.
Use a ceramic grease on insertion ( copper grease is abbrasive and accellerates galvanic corrosion between metals when used on defender panels)

get a decent tool, not a happy shopper amazon junk, you can dial the pressure and the crush, buy cheap buy twice and all that, also make sure you use a decent drill bite they key to a successfull fixing is a accurate and neat hole..... esepcially if its gonna show like on body work for light guards etc
Screenshot 2024-01-28 at 21.52.43.jpg
Screenshot 2024-01-28 at 21.52.00.jpg
Screenshot 2024-01-28 at 21.51.47.jpg
Screenshot 2024-01-28 at 21.51.44.jpg
 
KISSMYAURA said:
So a few things to consider

1) Rivnut material ( ali / stainless etc)
2) Rivnut type all metal or rubber (Rub nuts with brass)

I use them all the time, they are very good and very strong, however as with most things

You need to know how to apply them
You need to by quality ones

You need to consider your application, for fixing into a defender panel rubnuts are better to stop galvanic corrosion but its the strength of the panel you have to consider in torsion so ok for small brackets without much weight etc)
On other hand if you going into the chassis stong as hell but you want a stainless marine grade, notched and knurled one.
Use a ceramic grease on insertion ( copper grease is abbrasive and accellerates galvanic corrosion between metals when used on defender panels)

get a decent tool, not a happy shopper amazon junk, you can dial the pressure and the crush, buy cheap buy twice and all that, also make sure you use a decent drill bite they key to a successfull fixing is a accurate and neat hole..... esepcially if its gonna show like on body work for light guards etc
View attachment 309179View attachment 309180View attachment 309181View attachment 309182
Click to expand...
I had never seen the rubber ones before until I took up my boat floor, actually thought they were quite good.
 
lynall said:
Any rivnut is just fine IF you grease the bolt on assembly.
I personally hate the things, had so many where people have assembled the thing dry, then years later I come along and try to undo the fastener only for the rivnut to spin.
I do use them, Eclipse hand rivnut tool, cheap ones are just dogshti.
Click to expand...
Its funny you should say that I have spent the last 4 weeks drilling out about 40 rivnuts from the fibreglass/epoxy body of my other car in the luggage compartment. It has inspection panels which are rivnutted on and sh1te. Clearly weren't greased on first application.
 
I use them, alluminium in alloy and stainless in steel.
Rubnuts are used a lot on motorbikes, holding the screen and other plastic panels on.

As @KISSMYAURA said it impotant to get a good tight, accurate, clean hole when fitting the rivnut.
I think they are great things but they can get to be a pain if the surface they are fitted into and the fastener has corroded as they spin stopping the thing from undoing.
If you can get to the back that isn't an issue as you can grab the body with some pliers etc.
 
Ok guys thanks for the input :).
Still thinking the SS ones may be best, But as I said will I need to take it off again I dont know.

It is not a big bolt, Its actually a side step and (as I have found out after "We need to fix that" comment) the tyre fitter put his jack in the wrong place, that little bolt isn't gonna lift a car;) So am guessing its sheared off pretty flush.
So inner sill, steel, and no way to get to the back of it.

So the space I know is going to be tight, I will probably drill a new hole and go 1 size up🤔, after I fail to get the stub out.

Not going near the L322 with a welder;).

I have those rubber 1s on my motorbike fairing fixings too.

So going to talk to Geoff as he delivers here no problems, and get a selection. If I don't use them I will be fine with that.

Still unsure about a tool, cos of space available and the fact I will probably not need another 1 for xxyrs🤞.

J
 
lynall said:
I do use them, Eclipse hand rivnut tool, cheap ones are just dogshti.
Click to expand...

Another vote here for stainless as long as you are fitting it into a steel panel and still use lots of you preferred method of anti sieze.

I cannot second lynalls comment above enough. I bought two of them during my rebuild for fitting rivenuts into the glav bulkhead. the first one stripped all its threads off and when the second one did the same I just welded it together. Definitely a case of cheap chineseium tools but still quicker and easier than using a bolt if you have several to do. the welded repair makes it a little more difficult to use as you cannot alter the depth but now actually works.
 
So a box arrived today.
I did buy the tool in the end as I have realised it could possibly be closed half way and opened and readjusted to fully close the rivinut, So the space may not be such an issue 🤞

All I have to do now is get the scraper out of the garage so I can use the pit:oops:.

J
 

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Depending on the type of rivnut, I have fitted some using a impact driver. I have used thus method on m8 and m10. The rivnut needs to be flanged and enough to grip with mole grips etc. Use a socket head screw with lube on the thread, and a washer smaller than the flange.

As has been mentioned, a good snug fit is really important.
 
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