SpaceDawg

SpaceDawg

Active Member
Hi,

What a minefield this is, went to the LRO show and there were LED headlamps from £120 - £600! So I did not buy any :-(

All I want is a set that will go into the origional mountings and work off the origional wiring, nothing fancy just a little brighter than my current headlamps as winter will be on us soon.

Has anyone here fitted some budget ones (sub £160) if so what are they like and do you have a link for them?
 
SpaceDawg said:
Hi,

What a minefield this is, went to the LRO show and there were LED headlamps from £120 - £600! So I did not buy any :-(

All I want is a set that will go into the origional mountings and work off the origional wiring, nothing fancy just a little brighter than my current headlamps as winter will be on us soon.

Has anyone here fitted some budget ones (sub £160) if so what are they like and do you have a link for them?
Click to expand...
I know, I had the same dilema. I think I've settled on Defender ECE LED Headlamps which run around £450
 
SpaceDawg said:
Hi,

What a minefield this is, went to the LRO show and there were LED headlamps from £120 - £600! So I did not buy any :-(

All I want is a set that will go into the origional mountings and work off the origional wiring, nothing fancy just a little brighter than my current headlamps as winter will be on us soon.

Has anyone here fitted some budget ones (sub £160) if so what are they like and do you have a link for them?
Click to expand...
Just use some good halogen bulbs and lenses. And fit some spots to work with mainbeam.

Most of the LED conversion lights look gash, as in make you look like a complete knobber with a blinged up Defender.

Produce horrid blue coloured light.

Dazzle other traffic.

And get out dated in about a fortnight.
 
Wasn't there some talk of banning LED headlamps? I run with a couple of LED spots on the bumper and a LED bar of 24 lights on the roof rack which turn night time into day time
 
Oops I bought some cheap ones, will let you know how it goes.... I must put my light bar on as well.
 
Check out the colour temp of the lights. With a LED you'll ideally want something around 5000k or lower. 4000-4500k would be very nice. And preferably a high CRI (80+).

Sadly most are crappy and don't quote CRI. And nearly all seem to be horrid 6500k (which will have a low CRI).

This will give a blue/purple sort of light, that will bleach colours, especially greens and browns (will make them look grey, bit of a bugger as most roadsides are often that sort of colour and the road sort of greyish).

This means the ability to see detail and distinguish objects will be harder, even if the light output is higher. It will also cause more eye strain, making night driving somewhat more of a chore.

1461553967969372.jpg


r4r5outside.jpg
 
Fit decent halogen bulbs. Not those with a blue coating on the glass as they actually reduce the light output. Clear glass or a slight yellow tint is best.
Upgrade the wiring loom with relays and fused connections directly from the alternator to minimise voltage drop.
Make sure your headlights are properly aligned.
Job done.

Most LED headlights (and some halogen bulbs) give a bluer light that appears brighter in that it dazzles more, but actually isn't any better to see by. If anything, you want a yellower light as this is better for night driving.
 
I didn't realise I started a light bulm war!

On another note if they are really horrible white/blue light, then it will be no worse than my other car.
 
I agree they look gash especially the angel eye ones. Suppose its good though as it means proper ones look better! :D :p

I'd also be worried about em getting nicked, 2 seconds with a screw driver and they are gone!

I fitted some 55watt halogen lamps and new Wipac crystal lenses all of about £40 in parts, much brighter than standard but also got a pair of light bars for when its really bloody dark.
 
SpaceDawg said:
sunlight is around 5.5k to 6.5k its aint orange.
Click to expand...
not so. Sunlight will change colour drastically during the day and other atmospheric conditions. But that's not really the point. The sun is NOT an LED light is it. And there is far more to light than just the k number.

Again. Factory HIDs are typically 4300k.... why do you think that is? Or are you convinced you are correct and the entire motoring industry is wrong?

Even in the torch/flashlight world a 'neutral white' is considered 4500k and that's with an LED:
http://www.zebralight.com/SC600w-Mk-III-18650-XHP35-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_173.html
 
smashie said:
Ok then, I've already got crystal lenses so I've orderd a pair of night breaker bulbs, can't be worse can it :)
Click to expand...
Nightbreakers are pretty good. I have them in some vehicles, although they do put blue on the end of the glass. This means the colour temp/cri on mainbeam isn't as good as it is on dip. Which is a shame.

Other things to do is check your voltage at the lights. All the wiring and switches in a vehicle will cause this to be lower than you might think. I think Osram test and rate the bulbs for 13.2v input (about what an alternator should be putting out with the engine running).

The solution is to wire your headlights direct to the battery using suitable gauge wire. This will cut out most of the losses. Then couple the original harness to a relay to turn the lights on and off in the normal manner.

This voltage boost, combined with high output halogen bulbs and good lenses will make for some very good headlights.
 
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