Made a start on the refurbishment of the valve block. This is a spare block someone gave me which I tried on the car and it worked as well as the original 12 months ago.
Got the refurb kit with diaphram and 3 new nrv's of kurt which I've had 2 yrs. I'll finish off tomorrow and fit thursday/Friday all being well.
17090517759131080230750926216012.jpg
 
Make sure you get the solenoid valves & coils back in the correct order. The four corners must all be the same size.

Inlet & exhaust sizes are probably to allow correct inflate & deflate rates for the ECU, but this is unproven !!

Most blocks I have seen use 2.0 for the corners, 2.5 for Inlet & 4.0 exhaust:

IMG_2111.JPG

One valve block I have, uses 4.0 for both Inlet & Exhaust:

IMG_2108.JPG
 
pwood999 said:
Make sure you get the solenoid valves & coils back in the correct order. The four corners must all be the same size.

Inlet & exhaust sizes are probably to allow correct inflate & deflate rates for the ECU, but this is unproven !!

Most blocks I have seen use 2.0 for the corners, 2.5 for Inlet & 4.0 exhaust:

View attachment 311450
One valve block I have, uses 4.0 for both Inlet & Exhaust:

View attachment 311449
Click to expand...
I engraved the parts before removal. Everything looks perfect to be fair , not found anything suspect.
This is not the block off the car, its a spare. Once I've fitted this one I'll pull the other apart.
 
Flossie said:
Made a start on the refurbishment of the valve block. This is a spare block someone gave me which I tried on the car and it worked as well as the original 12 months ago.
Got the refurb kit with diaphram and 3 new nrv's of kurt which I've had 2 yrs. I'll finish off tomorrow and fit thursday/Friday all being well.View attachment 311423
Click to expand...
I do so love to see a dining room table put to good use :)
 
Flossie said:
Made a start on the refurbishment of the valve block. This is a spare block someone gave me which I tried on the car and it worked as well as the original 12 months ago.
Got the refurb kit with diaphram and 3 new nrv's of kurt which I've had 2 yrs. I'll finish off tomorrow and fit thursday/Friday all being well.View attachment 311423
Click to expand...
That is one weak cuppa ;)
 
Flossie said:
Made a start on the refurbishment of the valve block. This is a spare block someone gave me which I tried on the car and it worked as well as the original 12 months ago.
Got the refurb kit with diaphram and 3 new nrv's of kurt which I've had 2 yrs. I'll finish off tomorrow and fit thursday/Friday all being well.View attachment 311423
Click to expand...
I can see the problem there with the block rebuild, a major one
wheres the biscuits:eek:
 
Bugger, just finished refitting the valve block, waited the expected 12mins or so for the compressor to stop and it didn't after 20mins, door open. Shut the door and nothing going up. Sprayed leak detector around the gubbins and I've got air pulsing out the silencer. Just took it off again and back to the dining room table with it.
Any pointers to what I've done wrong? All new seals, diaphram and nrvs.
 
Removed the diaphram cover to check that's in the right way and the spring is present that's correct.
Removed the other end to check seals and nrv are correct and they are. My 'fixed' (lol!) Vb in the foreground compared to the one that was on the car.
20240228_142028.jpg
 
Flossie said:
Bugger, just finished refitting the valve block, waited the expected 12mins or so for the compressor to stop and it didn't after 20mins, door open. Shut the door and nothing going up. Sprayed leak detector around the gubbins and I've got air pulsing out the silencer. Just took it off again and back to the dining room table with it.
Any pointers to what I've done wrong? All new seals, diaphram and nrvs.
Click to expand...
Either the diaphragm is not closing properly, it's split already, or it's not seated.

1709144301436.png
 
Double checked what I've done and can't find anything wrong, curses!
I've found a post from wammers in the techy bit which suggests that the solenoid for the diaphragm is faulty. Are they 12vdc? Thinking to try and test it with a battery or jerry rig the whole vb to the car and test valve operation with the nano? Just had a thought.... could I have introduced a fault in the eas ecu when I removed the vb (battery left connected) that might of just needed clearing with the nano?
Although I've done it before with no issue.
 
Yes that one is 12v. It’s wired in parallel with the pump.

All the others are pulsed by driver pack. Never connect these to 12v directly.
 
Just realised the diaphragm solenoid is easily swoppable so even though I can't see anything wrong I've taken the solly off the vb that was on the car and fitted it to my refurbed one, off out to fit it all back in the car.
 

Attachments

  • 1709204378316884883259604346404.jpg
    1709204378316884883259604346404.jpg
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Bit a weird one, not sure if it's fixed or not but at least I'm back on the road!
Swopped the diaphram solly complete off the original vb that had some issues and fitted it to my refurbed one. Car went up, stuck a finger off a latex glove over the silencer and it inflated a bit but it wasn't very scientific as I can't remember now if I had the door open to inhibit the eas and it might have just been exhausting from leveling its self up a bit. Anywho, leak detector showed no air from there or anywhere else for that matter. Early days yet but 5hrs later it's still up which wasn't the case before.
 
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