02Disco2

Well-Known Member
PffaRB8YraFwV3P02

So yesterday I noticed my coolant level had dropped considerably since getting the car 3 weeks ago, so I topped it up and checked this morning (after about 5 miles driven) to see that the level had dropped 2" or so
Removing the radiator cover I saw this...
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Any ideas on how to see if it's coming from the pipes or the radiator itself??
 
It looks like the rad is leaking. Can you see the leak when it's running and up to temp? Also wrth checking the plastic pipe you can see running backto the resevoir -they get brittle
Griff
 
Just a word of warning, be careful of that plastic pipe on top of the rad.

Mine snapped last week, a cheap and easy part to replace, but a PITA if it does snap.

Cheers
 
Just a word of warning, be careful of that plastic pipe on top of the rad.

Mine snapped last week, a cheap and easy part to replace, but a PITA if it does snap.

Cheers

So, I've just removed the plastic surround that's under the main housing cover to see that the coolant appears to be bubbling up from the screw hole (see image).

With the engine idling it just keeps bubbling up from that screw hole!!

I'm guessing that it's punctured something and is a new radiator??
 

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Looking at the first and second picture, can you not put some sealant around it maybe a bit of PTFE tape and then refit the screw?

Cheers
 
Never looked that closely at the rad, does it have a thread in the hole? can you put one in ?

Cheers

Hi, yes is has a thread. It's the same as the fixing hole on the L/H side which seems fine and dry. It's like the screw had punctured something but the screw is (again) the same as the L/H one so confused and hoping it's not going to be a new radiator
 
Just found this post on another site; https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/correct-screw-lower-fan-shroud-top-radiator-49358/

The nasty pointed screws are exactly the ones I have so it looks like I’m fooled and a new radiator is needed. While I’m going to email the dealer (again) that sold me the car 3 weeks ago I doubt I’ll have any joy so thinking of attempting the replacement myself...

Daft idea? Should I get garage to do it? I’m thinking they’re going to charge a shed load for that job..
 
Reading the post you put a link to and looking at your problem I surmise that when the screw was fitted in the factory the rad was new and so was the plastic. Taking that screw out which is a self tapper then replacing it, if you don't get it to screw into the same threads it originally cut when it was first fit it will cut new threads in to old, heat stressed plastic which has now probably split as a result. you may find, as suggested, that drying the hole wrapping in PTFE or using sealant may work. if not then new rads are relatively low cost and fairly easy to fit. personally i would do the temp repair until new rad is delivered then fit myself, but that's me, all depends how confident you are..

found this video instruction on youtube on changing radiator
 
Reading the post you put a link to and looking at your problem I surmise that when the screw was fitted in the factory the rad was new and so was the plastic. Taking that screw out which is a self tapper then replacing it, if you don't get it to screw into the same threads it originally cut when it was first fit it will cut new threads in to old, heat stressed plastic which has now probably split as a result. you may find, as suggested, that drying the hole wrapping in PTFE or using sealant may work. if not then new rads are relatively low cost and fairly easy to fit. personally i would do the temp repair until new rad is delivered then fit myself, but that's me, all depends how confident you are..

found this video instruction on youtube on changing radiator

Thanks @Nige4927 I'll look into the new radiator. Watching that I think it should be something I can attempt myself!

Stupid question time though.. When I remove the battery, am I going to have any issues with radio codes, alarm or immobiliser? I dont have the codes so don't want to get stuck!
(not replaced/removed a battery before so sorry if that's a daft question)
 
My Disco has modern after market stereo so i dont has that problem, yes yours will need the radio code if disconnected from the battery. Maybe you should consider a new radio because disconnecting the battery, or a flat battery is gonna happen at some point and you will be without tunes.

Nige
 
My Disco has modern after market stereo so i dont has that problem, yes yours will need the radio code if disconnected from the battery. Maybe you should consider a new radio because disconnecting the battery, or a flat battery is gonna happen at some point and you will be without tunes.

Nige
Yes agreed, another item to add to the parts list!
 
Make sure to follow the correct bleeding procedure if you do the rad change.

Cheers
Decided to get this one done at the garage as its a bit beyond me and I really can't afford (literally) to cock it up.
Good news is I found the he radio code scrawled into the service book!

Thanks all for your help and advice I'm sure this will only be the start!
 
Decided to get this one done at the garage as its a bit beyond me and I really can't afford (literally) to cock it up.
Good news is I found the he radio code scrawled into the service book!

Thanks all for your help and advice I'm sure this will only be the start!

Have a shufti for the EKA code while you are looking.

Cheers
 

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