It's OK Mandy, it won't cost much <sharp intake of breath between teeth> :):):)

Well the good news is that some of it is still intact ;););)
 
well, what a firkin palaver :scratching_chin:

after yesterdays half successfulness of removing the collar, extension housing and 5th gear synchro from the mainshaft and layshaft, today was time for lifting the sandwich plate for gasket renewal.

after removing the nut from reverse idler actuator pivot shaft, and the temporary bolts from the sandwich plate, a gentle bit of levering of the plate saw it coming upwards till it got stuck on the reverse actuator.
gentle bit of tapping on the actuator shaft, I knew in the back of me mind what was about to happen......

out popped the actuator pivot, up came the plate, down went the actuator pivot, along with the actuator fork, slipper pads, reverse idler, spacer, washer into the bowels of the box.
that's gonna be a right :eek::eek::eek::eek: to put back together I thought.

gasket faces cleaned up, gasket collection, (getting a bit of a habit, buying bits off simmi's now....), call out to a valvesac filler and failed oht on way back, an hour at jack's school sports day, then back to the shop.

coffee, fags, head scratching, eventually saw the reverse setup back together after 3 dry fits then a build up with gaskets.
all gears appear to work, nowts left over, there appears to be a circlip missing from the reverse idler shaft according t the manual.
small amount of swearing when the spring popped out of 5th synchro hub, don't think it was in correctly to start with.
another small amount of head scratching with the thing in the selector shaft that drops down when 5th is engaged and what holds it up. turns out its a plate mounted in the selector housing, which I was unaware of while checking stuff engaged.

anyway, box back together, oiled up and left to see if owt falls out of it.

meanwhile, dave (who brought a camera better than mine) took some pics of the progress and seems to have missed a load off the email. the ones he did mail thru are a rather concerning shot of the splines in the transfer box input gear.
there aint a lot of life left in them......

first pic of outside, with unworn splines as they should look


this pic of inside of gear, showing the amount of wear in comparison to the previous pic.


so, guess the upshot is, does the bandit wish to continue with assembly and refit, procure a new input gear, or, bearing in mind the issue with play in the front output flange, source another transfer box?

anybody got a defender transfer box up for grabs?
 
is that gear cross drilled ? If not for £76 worth of timken bearings and a landrover gear I'd put one in to save whats left of the output if not the same thing will happen in time
 
is that gear cross drilled ? If not for £76 worth of timken bearings and a landrover gear I'd put one in to save whats left of the output if not the same thing will happen in time

heard of the cross drilled shaft recall, but unsure of what it exactly was.

linky please, as I don't believe this is cross drilled. :D
 
So that thing missing on 5th gear could be reason I have to hold it for a second to stop it popping out? N what you all on about with the cross drilled malarky? Lol :confused::D
 
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you didnt strip it in the way i suggested by standing on rear end and lifting main case off, as this means you dont disturb 5th gear assembly
 
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heard of the cross drilled shaft recall, but unsure of what it exactly was.

linky please, as I don't believe this is cross drilled. :D

theres been no issue with cross drilled gears ,ftc5089 for 1.410 box unless its very early t/box in which case you cant get a cross drilled,bearmach one are fine
 
you didnt strip it inm the way i suggested by standing on rear end and lifting main case off, as this means you dont disturb 5th gear assembly

ahhh, got it the wrong way round then :rolleyes:

even the book said remove main case from plate.
misunderstanding, or too much info too quick, an I got it mixed up.

explains why it was a ballache to reassemble :eek:

cheers for the advise tho, its appreciated. i'll write it down next time.;)
 
ahhh, got it the wrong way round then :rolleyes:

even the book said remove main case from plate.
misunderstanding, or too much info too quick, an I got it mixed up.

explains why it was a ballache to reassemble :eek:

cheers for the advise tho, its appreciated. i'll write it down next time.;)

was there any faults with the box apart from needing an oil change
 
was there any faults with the box apart from needing an oil change
i dont think i'm suitably qualified and experienced enough to answer that one:eek:

its the catch 22 situation, the box is out for a gasket change, how much other stuff do you change while its out, while keeping costs down, and aware that its needed back on the road?

i've kept myself blinkered, on the assumption that its only getting the leak sorted out then putting back in the motor. the transfer input gear i know is false economy to put back in, and really needs swapping.
initially i suggested a complete box swap and refurb the current box leisurly, in hindsight i think lcbandit thought it was "just a gasket swap to stop a leak" and i perhaps didnt make it clear enough that it was a fairly major bit of surgery to do that. (i thought i had:eek:)

so far the cost stands at a tenner for gaskets and a few beers. its still out of the motor, so we'll see what decisions are made in the near future.
 

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