matty_daak

Active Member
A 200tdi axle on the front of my 300tdi disco? I know ones a 10 spline and the other is a 24 spline, is this the only difference? Which ones stronger? Will it even fit and match up? Trouble is Im struggling to find a 300tdi axle but theres a 200tdi one local to me.... Advice please!! :doh:
 
there is no difference in the axle casings at all..

the differences are the 24 splin diff and shafts(including stub)...(stronger than a 200 10 spline)...

you can fit a 200 tdi axel as its a straight swap, or you can rebuild your axel with a set of 200 steering ball/hub assembleys, the 10 spline diff and half shafts as they are identical in every otherway..

future refrence, a 200/300 discovery is a mk1 discovery, the 200/300(also v8, and mpi verients in the same body shell) is the engine fitted and not the model, so all other parts are interchangable even the gearbox(200s have lt77, 300s have r380)..thou if you have a 300 and use a 200s parts you will make it look older(interior/headlamp assembely)..
 
Are the 10 splines a lot weaker than the 24 splines? If i fit the 200tdi axle am i gonna be changing half shafts and diffs every time i take it off road?
 
Are the 10 splines a lot weaker than the 24 splines? If i fit the 200tdi axle am i gonna be changing half shafts and diffs every time i take it off road?

they are weaker hence why land rover uprated the splines..

but must state that i used my 200tdi daily in quarrys and lanes(while checking round the old quarrys for dumped cars so on)...as well as laneing near enough weekly and lots of pay and plays and never had a diff fail on me..

i have snapped a axel casing however but as thats the same on all mk1 discos it wouldent have mattered wether it was a 200/300 pulling it along when it happened ha ha ha

and yup i have a spare 200 axel and a full set of steering balls/shafts and a matched diff also spare :)
 
[JP];1503772 said:
they are 14 times weaker? lol

lol be cool if it did work like that ;)

but alas no

the difference is that a 24 spline having more cuts in the shaft displaces the pressures exerted on the shaft better..10 spines if a tooth breaks takes out a large portion of the splines face losing just one spline, a 24 can loose 3 or four teeth before you have the same amount of surface area contact loss..
 
I must have bought a ringer of a 300tdi... had the rear diff snap its planetary shaft on the road, now the front has packed up (lost fwd off road in the middle of darkest wales at the weekend!) and something, bits of smashed diff i presume, has picked up on the inside of the drain bolt on the casing and ripped a nice hole in it, i had to drive the poor thing nearly 100 miles home in rwd only with horrible noises coming from the front axle as it steadly ate its self! bad times... :(
 
I must have bought a ringer of a 300tdi... had the rear diff snap its planetary shaft on the road, now the front has packed up (lost fwd off road in the middle of darkest wales at the weekend!) and something, bits of smashed diff i presume, has picked up on the inside of the drain bolt on the casing and ripped a nice hole in it, i had to drive the poor thing nearly 100 miles home in rwd only with horrible noises coming from the front axle as it steadly ate its self! bad times... :(

you should have pulled your half shafts out and made the front axel a free wheeling hub system for the drive home..

look at it this way, one of those floting bits of metal lodges its self into the spinning shaft ends while on the motor way and you have one front wheel lock up very rapidly..which could litterly drag the axel in and under flipping the car in the direction of the locked wheel..

snap a prop shaft..remove and lock the diff to drive, blow a diff remove all drive conponents..

if the diff is ok and its the prop snapped the diff and half shafts would just continue to work as designed just not driven by the engine but rather wheel rotation..

blow the diff and road rotation still drives the shafts while surrounded by floting fragments of the diff..

put it down to luck but in future never drive a landy with a blown diff still inline as it coulda been a deadly lesson.
 
th_Image0486.jpg
 
put it down to luck but in future never drive a landy with a blown diff still inline as it coulda been a deadly lesson.
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Point taken, should've dropped the shafts out really... call it a moment of weakness when tired and ****ed off! Got it home ok tho, once id jammed up the hole to stop it leaving a trail of diff oil down the M4 ;) I think its ruined either the cv or wheel bearing as a result tho, the bearing on the drivers side was starting to squeal as i got home and i noticed a spatter of oil from the outer seal on the outside of the hub and up the face of the wheel
 
Point taken, should've dropped the shafts out really... call it a moment of weakness when tired and ****ed off! Got it home ok tho, once id jammed up the hole to stop it leaving a trail of diff oil down the M4 ;) I think its ruined either the cv or wheel bearing as a result tho, the bearing on the drivers side was starting to squeal as i got home and i noticed a spatter of oil from the outer seal on the outside of the hub and up the face of the wheel

that will be due to heat build up in the halfshaft..heat dissapation can seriously cause some dangers also..like blow a tire right off the rim due to the rim heating up and then the air chamber also heating..

whats even scarier is that a tyre gives no indication this is happening untill it hits the expostential moment before fail(a micro second before it explodes)..

i will find a video that shows what a small amount of heat can cause a tyre to do.

my thoughts exactly

best plan ;)
 
here it is..its called pyrolosis..in the video they use a welder to start the reaction, but also explain that any heat source can cause this to happen..

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBUVzgCHHuA"]YouTube - Wheels of Fire Training Video[/nomedia]
 
:eek:

nice... ok point really taken, I guess this could be a lesson to us all - dont do what I did.. seems I was very lucky! :rolleyes:
 

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