Well I can do it with two hammers and so could you if you tried, I'm not Arnie Schwartsnegger. All it takes is coordination. As for the driving the truck thing, (never mentioned a car, that was your invention) well maybe I'm older than you but it was a guy older than me who told me about it and he'd been in the trade for ever. Mechanics had all sorts of ways of doing stuff in the old days that he taught me, all of which work and none of which cost a ton of money or need a special tool. Of course nowadays we have a tool for everything, you probably have one to scratch your asre with, but the OP may possibly have no clue and not a lot of dosh. Am I so wrong for giving him various ways of trying to sort himself out? If you think this is gibberish then why don't you give the OP some real advice? Maybe you have some clever way of separating ball joints that I didn't cover. Go one M8, surprise us all. Not like you to troll quite so much. Had a bad day?
 
Remember watching my pops doing track rod ends as a kid , he would use a blow lamp , heat up , 2 x hammers , thump , out , lol
 
Stanleysteamer said:
See @kevstar TWO HAMMERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Oh yes, and a heat-gun comes in handy when all else fails! I wouldn't risk a blowlamp for various reasons but the main one being I'd want to keep the steel heat-treated as it originally was.
Of course back in the day we never had heat-guns, but then @kevstar wouldn't know about blowlamps, they are antiques now, or they are gas powered. Any heat won't do the boot any favours, so I haven't used that in donkeys years.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Well I can do it with two hammers and so could you if you tried, I'm not Arnie Schwartsnegger. All it takes is coordination. As for the driving the truck thing, (never mentioned a car, that was your invention) well maybe I'm older than you but it was a guy older than me who told me about it and he'd been in the trade for ever. Mechanics had all sorts of ways of doing stuff in the old days that he taught me, all of which work and none of which cost a ton of money or need a special tool. Of course nowadays we have a tool for everything, you probably have one to scratch your asre with, but the OP may possibly have no clue and not a lot of dosh. Am I so wrong for giving him various ways of trying to sort himself out? If you think this is gibberish then why don't you give the OP some real advice? Maybe you have some clever way of separating ball joints that I didn't cover. Go one M8, surprise us all. Not like you to troll quite so much. Had a bad day?
Click to expand...

I grew up old school making do with what you had & if you didn't have a tool then id make one, never in all the garages &
workshops ive been in has anyone used 2 hammers.
I used the "car or truck" quote as an example, either or one or the other so your splitting hairs, they use the same mechanical workings do they not.

Ok so we undo the ball joint nut leaving a couple of threads on then with a long bar put some weight on the
on the wishbone,lower/upper arm & pry it as if to pry it apart then belt the ball joint & hey see what happens
when you don't have an off the shelf bought tool.

I had a great day thanks for asking.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Oh yes, and a heat-gun comes in handy when all else fails! I wouldn't risk a blowlamp for various reasons but the main one being I'd want to keep the steel heat-treated as it originally was.
Of course back in the day we never had heat-guns, but then @kevstar wouldn't know about blowlamps, they are antiques now, or they are gas powered. Any heat won't do the boot any favours, so I haven't used that in donkeys years.
Click to expand...

Oh , have I walked into something , lol

Indeed this was on older cars back in the 80s, dad was just removing them and always replaced them so didn’t matter how they came out, lol

Know I had to use heat when I tried to remove my wishbones , what a @&@&&#&&# , job they were but different subject
 
@kevstar , sorry didn’t realise there was a long conversation going on , hope I didn’t stick my nose in, wasn’t intentional and apologises if I’ve put my foot in it ;)

Hope I’m forgiven ;)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Oh yes, and a heat-gun comes in handy when all else fails! I wouldn't risk a blowlamp for various reasons but the main one being I'd want to keep the steel heat-treated as it originally was.
Of course back in the day we never had heat-guns, but then @kevstar wouldn't know about blowlamps, they are antiques now, or they are gas powered. Any heat won't do the boot any favours, so I haven't used that in donkeys years.
Click to expand...

Nope im not that old that I used a blow lamp,
Stanleysteamer said:
Oh yes, and a heat-gun comes in handy when all else fails! I wouldn't risk a blowlamp for various reasons but the main one being I'd want to keep the steel heat-treated as it originally was.
Of course back in the day we never had heat-guns, but then @kevstar wouldn't know about blowlamps, they are antiques now, or they are gas powered. Any heat won't do the boot any favours, so I haven't used that in donkeys years.
Click to expand...

Oh aye the op is going to nip back to the 60s & get a blowlamp lol
As for the boot who cares its getting replaced.
 
kevstar said:
I grew up old school making do with what you had & if you didn't have a tool then id make one, never in all the garages &
workshops ive been in has anyone used 2 hammers.
I used the "car or truck" quote as an example, either or one or the other so your splitting hairs, they use the same mechanical workings do they not.

Ok so we undo the ball joint nut leaving a couple of threads on then with a long bar put some weight on the
on the wishbone,lower/upper arm & pry it as if to pry it apart then belt the ball joint & hey see what happens
when you don't have an off the shelf bought tool.

I had a great day thanks for asking.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you are as old school as me hence we both make our own tools etc. Yes the two hammers thing was news to me too until I tried it, but believe me it does work. Pickle fork was the only tool available to buy easily when I started on cars back in 1972, and it always seemed so brutal to me, especially if trying to preserve the boot.
Talking old school, i was thinking of starting a thread on some of the old school ways of doing things that younger members may never have heard of. First two things that come to mind are undoing a crankshaft pulley nut, and removing a steering wheel. I bet you have cool ways of doing these. We could swap!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Sounds like you are as old school as me hence we both make our own tools etc. Yes the two hammers thing was news to me too until I tried it, but believe me it does work. Pickle fork was the only tool available to buy easily when I started on cars back in 1972, and it always seemed so brutal to me, especially if trying to preserve the boot.
Talking old school, i was thinking of starting a thread on some of the old school ways of doing things that younger members may never have heard of. First two things that come to mind are undoing a crankshaft pulley nut, and removing a steering wheel. I bet you have cool ways of doing these. We could swap!
Click to expand...

Your a bit older than me & its always interesting to hear how problems were overcome back in the day, ye old fork
didn't preserve the boot at all. There are loads of tricks of the trade so to speak but they don't jump out until your
doing a job & then your a smart ar$e when the old school ways work. :D
 
One of the Old many tricks my dad taught me

If ur putting a clip back that’s awkward and fear of dropping it, tie a bit of Cotten round it , fit the clip then pull Cotten off

Works a treat when doing injector clips

I thank u , lol

@Stanleysteamer , think that would be a good thread of the old tricks
 
gstuart said:
One of the Old many tricks my dad taught me

If ur putting a clip back that’s awkward and fear of dropping it, tie a bit of Cotten round it , fit the clip then pull Cotten off
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I do to hold on the pins when putting back the retaining clips on the handbrake shoes.

And rebuilding the brake calipers would have been a nightmare if it wasn't for this gentleman -

You won't find such ingenuity in RAVE or Haynes so a separate thread with anything that can make DIY life easier would be more than welcome.

Thank you.
 
NPG said:
That's exactly what I do to hold on the pins when putting back the retaining clips on the handbrake shoes.

And rebuilding the brake calipers would have been a nightmare if it wasn't for this gentleman -

You won't find such ingenuity in RAVE or Haynes so a separate thread with anything that can make DIY life easier would be more than welcome.

Thank you.
Click to expand...


Hi

Did forget dads trick once when I was putting back some injector clips, Ping , never to be seen again , lol

Using an air pump to get those seals in does indeed work a treat , when I rebuilt some callipers I found that worked a treat

Indeed, there’s so many little tips and ideas just to make life easier
 
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I'll kick off with one to get the crankshaft pulley nut undone. Probably not possible on all cars now there is so little space under the bonnet.
1/ make sure the crankshaft pulley wheel rotates the same way as the thread for the bolt i.e crank turns clockwise and bolt does up clockwise.
2/ put a ring spanner, or socket and bar on the bolt horizontally to the right.
3/ just below its end position an axle stand
4/ disconnect whatever it takes to stop the engine starting if you turn the ignition, king lead, lead to coil, etc
5/ kick the engine over with the starter.
The spanner hits the axle stand top, the engine goes just a bit further thus undoing the bolt a tiny bit, you can then finish it off by hand!
 
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And I think the thing about lorry ball joints is that they are just that much bigger and thus tougher to undo. Every extra mm on the diameter of the cone translates to 3.14mm more on the diameter, and of course they would be longer too, so the contact area overall will be that much bigger that you would need gorillas on the pry bars and hammers.
I think I deffo will start that new thread, but not today, thunderstorms in France means I have to disconnect the internet, and my decking will never get finished unless I do it!
 
gstuart said:
Hi

Indeed, there’s so many little tips and ideas just to make life easier
Click to expand...

There should probably be 2 separate threads - one for these DIY tips and another one with a list of non-genuine parts that are known to be reliable
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I'll kick off with one to get the crankshaft pulley nut undone. Probably not possible on all cars now there is so little space under the bonnet.
1/ make sure the crankshaft pulley wheel rotates the same way as the thread for the bolt i.e crank turns clockwise and bolt does up clockwise.
2/ put a ring spanner, or socket and bar on the bolt horizontally to the right.
3/ just below its end position an axle stand
4/ disconnect whatever it takes to stop the engine starting if you turn the ignition, king lead, lead to coil, etc
5/ kick the engine over with the starter.
The spanner hits the axle stand top, the engine goes just a bit further thus undoing the bolt a tiny bit, you can then finish it off by hand!
Click to expand...

This method for sure works and I used it a few times myself. The only instance when I don't recommend it is if the crankshaft is not keyed and the engine is interference type. For instance, Ford Duratec use a diamond-coated friction washer to press and hold the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft.So, once the bolt is released, the crank and the cams are disconnected and a slight additional movement of the crank can quickly destroy the engine valves.
 
NPG said:
This method for sure works and I used it a few times myself. The only instance when I don't recommend it is if the crankshaft is not keyed and the engine is interference type. For instance, Ford Duratec use a diamond-coated friction washer to press and hold the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft.So, once the bolt is released, the crank and the cams are disconnected and a slight additional movement of the crank can quickly destroy the engine valves.
Click to expand...
Typically I am so old I have never worked on a crank that doesn't have a woodruff key. Fancy being such a lazy asre as to invent a way of not locking the crank to the pulley wheel. WHY?????????? I would never be able to trust this. Now I will never buy a vehicle with a Duratec engine in it. to think that "duratec" linguistically implies "tough technology"!
Agree about the threads by the way.
 
kevstar said:
What a load of slobbering gibberish who can use two hammers at once with enough force to crack a ball joint lol
Never seen anyone in 30 years drive a car or truck to crack a ball joint pishhh :rolleyes: :D
Click to expand...

I think he was also missing the point that it was the steering knuckle ball joints

Cheers
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I'll kick off with one to get the crankshaft pulley nut undone. Probably not possible on all cars now there is so little space under the bonnet.
1/ make sure the crankshaft pulley wheel rotates the same way as the thread for the bolt i.e crank turns clockwise and bolt does up clockwise.
2/ put a ring spanner, or socket and bar on the bolt horizontally to the right.
3/ just below its end position an axle stand
4/ disconnect whatever it takes to stop the engine starting if you turn the ignition, king lead, lead to coil, etc
5/ kick the engine over with the starter.
The spanner hits the axle stand top, the engine goes just a bit further thus undoing the bolt a tiny bit, you can then finish it off by hand!
Click to expand...

Actually , on a 300tdi, much easier to use a breaker bar and rest it on the chassis rail. But, it does not help when tightening it back up. Then the proper locking tool for £40 makes life so much easier.

Cheers
 
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