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Legscrane

Member

• Mar 12, 2016

• #21

Thanks Jam,
Yeah on reflection i think chequer plate is wrong. I wonder how i can finish that to keep it from corroding/rusting. I was gonna have it all powder coated but with use will the finish come off the eges of that mesh? Perhaps stainless steel mesh is the answer?

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Mar 12, 2016

• #22

Looking good Legscrane,

Makes me want to start looking at something similar.

What pipe bender are you using? and what steel are you using for that .



Cheers

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Mar 12, 2016

• #23

Legscrane said:

Thanks Jam,
Yeah on reflection i think chequer plate is wrong. I wonder how i can finish that to keep it from corroding/rusting. I was gonna have it all powder coated but with use will the finish come off the eges of that mesh? Perhaps stainless steel mesh is the answer?

Click to expand...

Why not use stainless mesh and bolt it into place, then if you damage it , it is easy to change and would not need to be powder coated with the frame.

Cheers

 

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Legscrane

Member

• Mar 12, 2016

• #24

Good thinking neilly. Ta
The tube bender is a Pro-tools 105. I'm using 1.25 inch 16 swg erw tube.

Ta

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Mar 12, 2016

• #25

Legscrane said:

Good thinking neilly. Ta
The tube bender is a Pro-tools 105. I'm using 1.25 inch 16 swg erw tube.

Ta

Click to expand...

Oooh, nice kit,

A little more than I want to spend on something I will nto use that much, LOL

Cheers

 

flat

Well-Known Member

• Mar 12, 2016

• #26

Legscrane said:

Thanks Jam,
Yeah on reflection i think chequer plate is wrong. I wonder how i can finish that to keep it from corroding/rusting. I was gonna have it all powder coated but with use will the finish come off the eges of that mesh? Perhaps stainless steel mesh is the answer?

Click to expand...

i wonder if when its finished you take it off and get the whole lot galvanised?

 

J

Jam1

Well-Known Member

• Mar 13, 2016

• #27

Yeah agreed, galv it and leave it bare

 

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Legscrane

Member

• Mar 13, 2016

• #28

Yeah deffo, would be more durable. But probably quite costly will have to look into it.

Thanks

 

flat

Well-Known Member

• Mar 14, 2016

• #29

Legscrane said:

Yeah deffo, would be more durable. But probably quite costly will have to look into it.

Thanks

Click to expand...

You may be surprise, it's bright steel, all it needs is a quick acid dip and the hot zinc dip. Cheaper than powder cost I reckon

 

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Legscrane

Member

• Apr 22, 2016

• #30

Well hello all. Been too busy just lately and haven't done much on the roof rack but here's a couple of up to date pics.

 

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Jam1

Well-Known Member

• Apr 22, 2016

• #31

Looking good that is going to so suit being galved
Decided what you are going to do with the load area yet?

 

L

Legscrane

Member

• Apr 22, 2016

• #32

Thanks. Yer, gonna go the expanded mesh and glalvanise route i think. Gonna make a tubular access ladder combined with swing away spare carrier too.

 

tomhop

Active Member

• Apr 23, 2016

• #33

Looking really smart great job

 

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Legscrane

Member

• Apr 23, 2016

• #34

Thanks tomhop, hopefully will look better when all galvanised.

 

liam_italian

Member

• Apr 23, 2016

• #35

Fair play that is brilliant bit of work you've done there, very impressive

 

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Legscrane

Member

• Apr 24, 2016

• #36

Thanks liam_italian. I wonder if there's a market for selling them?!

 

liam_italian

Member

• Apr 24, 2016

• #37

I bet you there is

 

B

bobzdar

New Member

• Mar 20, 2018

• #38

Any updates on this? I'm looking to build a mount for my 109 exMoD (already have a roof rack it came with, but set up with gutter mounts which I obviously don't have unless I got to hard top). I was thinking of using a set of rear ladders to attach to the cross member, the side antenna mounts and then a windshield frame mount similar to what you have. Just not sure if the rear ladders would be high enough to clear the soft top and not interfere with the rear flap at all.

I like how you're mounting the rear but I guess it would require a reinforced (new) rear hoop to hold it, where maybe the ladders wouldn't.